REN Wax

[deerstalkert]

this thread made me uncase the fowler i sold and am holding for the buyer. i found some light rust spots around the frizzon.
polished it all off and used the last of my Ren Wax. some day i may get real energetic and learn to spell Rennaissance!

 

[Tyler L]

I think Ren Wax can charge the high price they do because it is one of the only (if not the only) waxes intended for conservation of bare metal items. As such, it is pH neutral.

By comparison, I looked at the SDS for one of my favorites, Collinite 885, and it's got a pH of about 5. That's actually right on the edge where steel can corrode.

 

[OldMaineWoodsman]

As a retired Museum Curator, a word about Ren Wax....

It is a great product and yes, it is expensive. But I do not believe it is best for firearms that are handled or used frequently. We used it for artifact firearms and edged weapons that were going on long-term display within exhibit cases. It is not very durable under handling, and you will have to keep applying it every time you handle your rifle, musket, or shotgun.

If you store your firearms or hang them up over the mantle in-between hunting seasons, fine. But there are better and less costly alternatives for every day or frequent use.

Museum pieces that were treated with Ren Wax fared better than those just wiped down with gun oils during weather events like Hurricane Katrina but again, we are talking about storage and or display, not every day or frequent use.

 

[Resolve]

As a retired Museum Curator, a word about Ren Wax....

It is a great product and yes, it is expensive. But I do not believe it is best for firearms that are handled or used frequently. We used it for artifact firearms and edged weapons that were going on long-term display within exhibit cases. It is not very durable under handling, and you will have to keep applying it every time you handle your rifle, musket, or shotgun.

If you store your firearms or hang them up over the mantle in-between hunting seasons, fine. But there are better and less costly alternatives for every day or frequent use.

Museum pieces that were treated with Ren Wax fared better than those just wiped down with gun oils during weather events like Hurricane Katrina but again, we are talking about storage and or display, not every day or frequent use.

Thanks for the info. Is there something you would recommend for frequent use?
R

 

[Lentzie]

I build and sell custom hammered copper tables and bar tops. Many are in restaurants and see heavy use. I use 3 layers of Trewax clear over the bare and patinaed copper. It holds up amazingly well.

 

[Barry Strickland]

I have been using Minwax Dark for over 50 years. It works well for both wood and metal.
Barry

 

[OldMaineWoodsman]

Thanks for the info. Is there something you would recommend for frequent use?
R

First, let me clear. Ren-Wax is a great product. I use it myself. It breathes new life into tired, dry gunstocks and can be a good barrier of protection on barrels. The problem is it doesn't hold up under handling and use of a firearm. It has a tendency to gum up an action with overuse, and interaction with things like powder residue.

I also use it on my leather gun slips and cartridge bags. It seems to work better than things like mink oil or other leather treatments.

Personally, I like boiled linseed oil for gun stocks. Especially those with a satin or oil type of finish. The problem is most people use way too much of it. It dries slow, and all you really need is a tad bit on a fingertip to rub into the wood. I would not recommend using linseed oil on a gloss finished stock like the gym floor type finish that you see on a Browning for example. It will leave a white film when the stock gets wet or rained on.

During the hunting seasons I just wipe my firearms down with either Break-Free or Rem Oil. Again, people tend to use too much of it, especially inside. That excess oil runs down the frame or receiver and makes its way into the stock which over time will damage and weaken it. If you take a look at some vintage shotguns and rifles, you can see how the wood at the head of the stock behind the frame or receiver is darker than the rest of the stock. I have seen some almost black in color. That is from oil seeping into it over time. Something to look for when considering an antique or vintage shotgun.

I don't shoot year-round like I used to. For me, once the seasons end, I perform a thorough cleaning on all my firearms that I used and then use Ren-Wax on them prior to placing them back in my cabinet, or rack. Every year I say I'm going to start shooting skeet again, but then I get side-tracked. If you keep firearms in a safe, Ren-Wax will be a good aid, but you still have to be on guard for moisture and mildew that can creep into the safe. Keep those color case-hardened frames or receivers out of direct light to slow the fading.

I could tell plenty of sad stories of fine firearms brought in and offered for donation to the museum that were ruined or badly damaged because the owner kept them stored in a damp holster or gun case.

I don't do repair work for folks anymore but when I did, most of the problems that I encountered were caused by abuse/neglect, excessive use of oils, disassembly with incorrect reassembly, or using cheap ammunition.

 

[Bucolic Buffalo]

I like Renaissance Wax. For things not used often. Has a petroleum scent. Otherwise gun oils. Or those cloths from various sources, like Wilson Combat. Great for wiping down firearms used a lot.

For a more durable hard wax finish, I have been using Alfie Shine. Made for tools. Like some oil finishes, very little needed and it must be given time to dry. Builds a nice durable finish. I have seen it scented and fragrance free. What I have came with two tins, a brush, a nice cloth in a container. Scented like cloves. That fades with some time.

 

[OldMaineWoodsman]

An interesting read, especially the second paragraph.

https://www.archivalmethods.com/downloadfiles/Renaissance-Wax.pdf