Renegade replacement stock from Pecatonica River

[Pete G]

I disagree, don't use Super glue on wood, there are are far better wood glues.

Like Titebond III

 

[necchi]

most of that splinter will be removed by the time you finish inletting the lockplate and bolster . not a disaster at all.

That "splinter" is the part that supports the entire upper section of the lock plate, keeping the hammer in alignment with the nipple.
It's not a fatal disaster, but will require considerable thought, little distraction and a steady hand.
Both fractures need to be repaired.
I would use a slow set epoxy, I've had great long lasting results with Devcon 2 ton High Strength epoxy and/or Acraglas.
Acraglas is made for and a proven history with firearms and the Devcon has also proven to me, in our MN seasonal temp swings, to have long term reliability in a few different applications..

Lippy984,
Your going to have to get the epoxy into the fractures, not just on top. some kind of thin blade like tool to reach/press in there,
(think thin like a wood reed for a musical instrument), then light clamping to hold in position. (inch pounds of torque here)
The repairs will be hidden by the lock/barrel, but they need to be there for support.
Chisels need to be surgical sharp, you should be able to "shave" a piece of wood.

I've done that Pecitonica stock and made a huge error!
It has a different "drop at comb" then the original T/C stock. When I cut the butt to length, I had measured the original and transferred that line to make the cut.
The result was a stock that was too short for a standard length of pull, the project is now only suitable for a smaller gal or youth

 

[cajun]

Merry Christmas all,
So a year ago I bought a stock that Pecatonica makes to replace the TC Renegade stock. This is my first time ever working with a stock, besides my GPR kit I put together almost 20 years ago. I’m a mechanic, not the greatest carpenter, but I like tackling jobs.
Although it is a pre-carved stock, I realize it’s certainly not “drop-in” ready. The barrel fits tight, so that’s one question I have about inletting/fitting the barrel. I have to squeeze it in with a good amount of pressure. Do I sand at this point with long even strokes, just enough to drop the barrel in easy enough?

now onto my oops…I figured step one was to mount the tang. Because I need to sit the tang in deeper, I tried carefully to chisel the wood. Well, it split the top section that sits under the lock. Is this repairable? Or did I just really screw this thing up? And what would be the best way to carve out material to fit the tang?View attachment 111308View attachment 111309View attachment 111310View attachment 111311

Here's a video link on YouTube that may help/answer your question on tang and barrel fitting. I hope it helps you.
York County Flintlock Rifle Build Update 3 - YouTube

 

[Lippy984]

Here's a video link on YouTube that may help/answer your question on tang and barrel fitting. I hope it helps you.
York County Flintlock Rifle Build Update 3 - YouTube

Mike always has great videos. Thank you