Sounds like a plan. I always clean my wood really well after using stripper.
Ain't gonna work.I was thinking I could strip the finish and then steam the holes like you would to remove dents.
Cut some wood from under the center of the butplate, cut it up enough to get some sawdust, mix with a little stock finish and smear it across the holesI picked up a Pedersoli Pennsylvania rifle recently that the owner had decorated with some brass tacks. The tacks were poorly done so I don't want the tacks in the stock. What would be the best way to repair the holes. I was thinking I could strip the finish and then steam the holes like you would to remove dents. The holes might close or close enough that when I sand a stain to refinish the stock the holes wouldn't be noticeable. Anyone else dealt with this before?
Wet sand with BLO or Watcos Danish oil. Wipe across the grain with a soft cloth and a light touch.toothpick plugs will show up much darker when stained. you would be staining end grain.
i'd try steaming with gentle tapping the wood around the hole when it is hot and wet. repeat as many times as needed.
then when you finish it, wet sand the first couple coats and the slurry will act as a filler.
The holes aren’t drilled. All the wood is still there, just compressed by a sharp tack and they are very small. Once finished the stock may have a pattern of small dots which should be all most invisible against a dark stock. Unless it’s a completely blank stock with no grain pattern the overall appearance could be quite attractive.Ain't gonna work.
That move should remove the dents, but them hole are there.(period)
Go ahead, strip an steam,, but you'll need sanding too.
I'd plug the holes with silver rod (or pewter), or add an inlay to cover,, or plug with Walnut,, either way, those holes won't close.
It's best to make use of the holes in a decorative manner other than tacks.
You'll never be able to hide them.
The toothpicks will have end grain at the surface of the wood and will stain darker than the original finish. The plan to steam and then fill with a slurry of sawdust is the best approach.Agree. The more I can raise everything the less sanding I will need to do. I was thinking to use a stripper for the finish. I wonder if I should put toothpicks in the holes to keep the stripper out of them? Keep the wood as natural in the holes as possible.
To add to what necchi said, when I did a lot of wood working, instead of trying to hide a plug over a screw hole, I would use wood plugs of contrasting wood because it’s difficult to match the base wood. For instance, on ash I would use plugs made out of redwood or walnut, and the contrast was part of the design.Ain't gonna work.
That move should remove the dents, but them hole are there.(period)
Go ahead, strip an steam,, but you'll need sanding too.
I'd plug the holes with silver rod (or pewter), or add an inlay to cover,, or plug with Walnut,, either way, those holes won't close.
It's best to make use of the holes in a decorative manner other than tacks.
You'll never be able to hide them.
Here’s a link to Stewmac for the fret markers: Search - StewMacTo add to what necchi said, when I did a lot of wood working, instead of trying to hide a plug over a screw hole, I would use wood plugs of contrasting wood because it’s difficult to match the base wood. For instance, on ash I would use plugs made out of redwood or walnut, and the contrast was part of the design.
If the tack holes don’t steam shut, perhaps find some small diameter white or ivory colored plastic rod in the holes, similar to the fret markers on a guitar? That rod material is available from Stewart-McDonald, a company catering to the musical instrument trade. They also have pearl and abalone dots. Another option would be to use brass or copper wire to make the dots, like a tiny headless nail.
Yet another option- connect the dots with a wire inlay of German silver.
Where do you get the walnut powder?I have used the following products successfully in patching chips. Mix the the epoxy first- part a and part b. Then add the walnut powder to you get the color to match your stock. Then squeegy it in fully into the tack holes. Let it cure sand and stain or finish. There are different shades of powder u can get.
I would find some sanding dust from a similarly coloured wood, mix it with a drop of epoxy, and use that to fill the holes if the steaming doesn't work. If the tack heads cut the grain when they were driven in, you may have to scrape/sand the surface to get rid of the damage; use the dust from that.I picked up a Pedersoli Pennsylvania rifle recently that the owner had decorated with some brass tacks. The tacks were poorly done so I don't want the tacks in the stock. What would be the best way to repair the holes. I was thinking I could strip the finish and then steam the holes like you would to remove dents. The holes might close or close enough that when I sand a stain to refinish the stock the holes wouldn't be noticeable. Anyone else dealt with this before?
Enter your email address to join: