Repairing wood screw holes

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Thanks for a lot of great ideas folks. The toothpick idea would work for sure for just retaining the hand guard, but the hand guard retains the trigger assembly which, when cocked, is trying to push itself away from the wood so toothpicks alone may or may not be enough. Will definitely start there though.

Nice thing about the lock screws that need replacing is I've got 8-32 iron screws. I just need to reduce the size of the head (drill and file will do that) and run a die up the screws as far as is needed, and then cut to length.
 
If you insist…check that. Wood screws work best when the grain is parallel not perpendicular to the threads. If there is any pullout force the repairs made with the wood perpendicular to the screw threads will not hold up as well. Toothpicks and matches may as well be sawdust if the force is great enough.

I’ve seen this principle at work in 50 years of construction experience, both as a carpenter and as an architect specializing in historic preservation. I’ve also restored countless pieces of antique furniture and made as many home repairs in the same period. I have tried to cut corners a few times by using a wood dowel in furniture and I think I’ve had to go back and repair it properly just as many times. I’ve also had to repair someone else’s dowel or toothpick repairs just as frequently.

Perhaps the forces that would normally pull out a screw in building construction or furniture are not as great in a firearm so the shortcuts (dowels, toothpicks, etc.) can work. But I don’t consider that a very strong or professional repair for the reasons I’ve given.
 
When you use the hardwood toothpick the wood screw, which from the side profile is a wedge, wedges the toothpick sideways into the original wood and I have found them to be very strong. In old houses with pine trim I think they end up holding better than the original wood.

On a hardwood gunstock they have held very well for me.

By the way, I am not talking about the cheap toothpicks you get at Walmart that break easily, I am talking something like bamboo toothpicks that are tough.
 
Glad to know that works. I’m just anal enough to stick to what I know. 😬
 
Drill out hole and use a hardwood dowel glued in. Dont use a softwood dowel as you will wind up eventually over time where you started out from. This of course is if it is in an area that you wont be able to see the dowel. Usually where they sell dowels, they usually have oak dowels also. I hope this helps
 
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Disagree. They work both ways just fine.
End grain does not have the holding power of cross grain. End grain can, and does work, to an extent. If the hole to be mended is not too large, tooth picks will work because they provide tension. If the repair area is larger than the major screw diameter, the holding power is finished somewhat. I'm not saying the repair won't work, I'm saying there is a comprimise. When making such a repair, a pilot hole equal to the minor screw thread should be drilled. Use beeswax or paraffin on the thread when inserting the screw.
 
I would note that there may be little stress on this screw. I wonder if the age of the wood contributed more to looseness then stress
Just wondering if any repair would not be fairly solid even if the placement was not strongest owing to wood direction
After all butt plates are fitter end ways into the wood
 
End grain does not have the holding power of cross grain. End grain can, and does work, to an extent. If the hole to be mended is not too large, tooth picks will work because they provide tension. If the repair area is larger than the major screw diameter, the holding power is finished somewhat. I'm not saying the repair won't work, I'm saying there is a comprimise. When making such a repair, a pilot hole equal to the minor screw thread should be drilled. Use beeswax or paraffin on the thread when inserting the screw.
Wood screws are used in furniture making a lot. Those screws are put everywhich direction depending on need.
 
Wood screws are used in furniture making a lot. Those screws are put everywhich direction depending on need.
I really try to avoid using metal fasteners in making furniture. If I'm going to put the effort into making a piece of furniture, I'm a wood joinery -- or at least a wooden peg -- and glue kind of guy. There is no "need" for screws in furniture. 😂 :rolleyes:
 
RanchRoper I had the same concern with my Pedersoli. I remove the lock for cleaning and the small wood screw would not last long. I installed a threaded insert in its place. The size I used is the same as the screw for an electrical outlet cover. The thread screw size I used is 6x32 with .400" thread length. You can blue it with touch up or even fire blue them. They can also be had in brass which is what I have. I would suggest using an old hand drill for the pilot hole as it is a delicate operation but not hard. My rifle is 32 caliber but looking at it there should be enough room.
 
you can drill out the holes and glue in a piece of hardwood dowel. i use 5/16 or 1/4 depending on screw size. when glue is dry cut it off flush with the stock, sand a little and stain. drill new starter hole for your screw size.
That works well. It does however mean the screws are embedded in end grain which isn’t as strong. A some what stronger way , if one has the means, is to cut face grain plugs from a suitable thick board, when glued in the screw threads are now cutting across the grain instead of running with it.

It’s probably a moot point for non structural parts like some trigger guards or butt plates.

Edit: Just took the time to read “all” the posts. So my post is just twice chewed cabbage.

Metallic fasteners. I too build furniture from
Rough saw hardwoods of various species. There are places on/in furniture building for every type of fastener for joinery be it dowels, mortice and tenon, half laps, dovetails, finger joints, screws, Tnuts, threaded inserts, nuts and bolts, even nails all have a place and function.
 
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You are the proud custodian of a 300+ year old gun. Show it and it’s history some respect. No repairs to screw holes with plastic wood. No inserts. No Acraglas. This isn’t a beat up kit gun from 25 years ago. Maybe some toothpicks and a drop of glue. Inconspicuous and doesn’t change or harm anything. Don’t replace the screw. Find someone who conserves or repairs guns from the time period and get their opinion.

There it is, CRAFTMANSHIP.
Is it too much trouble ?
 
I like wood dowels, plugs, or even wood toothpicks (depending on hole size), glued in with Tightbond III glue and then dressed down flush. I've fooled with wood fillers, putties, Gorilla Glue, epoxy, etc. in the past but have come to prefer a proper wood plug/dowel/pick and wood glue over the other stuff. Stuff like Acraglass, putty, and epoxy certainly have their uses, but I prefer wood and wood glue for this sort of thing. Some of the bigger dowels/plugs should be crimped to allow air to escape from the hole and to provide a mechanical bond for the wood glue.
 
If you use Acra-Glass jell, or any 2-part epoxy type stuf, you better use some anti-sieze on the screws. Otherwise you might just cause another problem, like the screws being suck in place.

I usually use the the wood dowel method.

Dave
Why would a screw get stuck if it is put in after the epoxy has set & hardened. I'm talking about putting the screw in AFTER the epoxy has cured. It fills in the voids & missing wood in the screw hole threads & gives the screw something to make new threads with, just as it does when you screw it into wood. Simple, easy, & invisible. Why does everybody here try to make things so hard & complicated??? Been fixin' striped threads that way for years. So easy a caveman can do it. No drills, no dowels, no cutting, no fitting, no sanding. You don't even need to fill the hole completely, just enough to make the screw tight again. Stronger than any dowel, as well.
 
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