Replacement lock for Pedersoli KY

[mjn]

Hello all. I was wondering if there is quality replacement lock that will fit the Pedersoli PA/KY/cub rifle. Any help would be appreciated.
Marshall

 

[hanshi]

A few years ago I contacted L&R about a replacement lock for one and there was nothing they had that would work. Things change so you might contact them and Davis.

 

[BrownBear]

You can get them here, but ouch.

 

[mr.flintlock]

Give Richard Beauchamp at Flintlocks,ECT. a call. 413-698-3822. I bought a flintlock from him to convert my Hatfield from percussion to flint. There is a good chance that he has what you need.

 

[BEP]

Dixie Gun Works has them; LO1105 for a flinter or LO1002 for percussion. Their website or catalog lists them as a "Pennsylvania" style lock for their Dixie Deluxe & Super Cub and Dixie Pennsylvania rifles but they're a drop-in lock for Pedersolis as well. I know because I used one on a Pedersoli Kentucky so I could convert from percussion to flint. Good luck and have fun.

 

[mjn]

I was wanting a better lock for this gun that was NOT Pedersoli made. Like the way L&R makes replacement locks for traditions, I was wondering if anyone made a lock that would fit a Pedersoli even if it needed a little fitting.

 

[mr.flintlock]

So I take it you have a Pedersoli lock and are not happy with it. What is the problem with it. Maybe it is something that can be fixed. If that is the case, if it can be fixed to your satisfaction it will be much cheaper than buying a new lock.

 

[BrownBear]

Have you talked directly with L&R or RE Davis.

I've always found L&R to be really informative and helpful. I don't have any experience with Davis locks, but if my experience with their triggers are any indication, they've got a lot going for them. I don't see any indication on the site I linked that those are compatible, but the right person there or at L&R might be able to talk knowledgeably about what would be involved in adapting a Pedersoli to accept their product.

Pure speculation, but worth the queries, I think.

 

[mjn]

I had a Pedersoli KY rifle that I sold. I liked the feel of the gun but the flint lock on the thing was a little less than reliable. It sparked alright but not where I would trust it to hunt with. I was thinking about getting a Pedersoli PA but I would like a more reliable lock. Thus the question.

 

[RADeO]

About two years back I travelled the same road you are now upon, MJN. My rifle is the Pedersoli Pennsylvania. Nice rifle, accurate, quick lock time, but it absolutely EATS UP flints! I talked with L&R, Davis, Chambers, and L.C. Rice. Everyone gave me the same reply - NO direct replacement, NO lock that could be easily modified to fit, even if the lock mortice was slightly enlarged. Seems the boys at Pedersoli picked some in-between dimensions when designing their lock. I even sent my lock to one of the previously-mentioned gents to see if it could be "tuned" for more satisfactory performance and was told the lock geometry design was not good. :cursing: Makes me sad that a company like Pedersoli would have the timerity to put such a lock on an otherwise good-quality rifle. :idunno:

Good luck in your search. Hope you have better luck than did I. If you find a suitable replacement, please let us know. There are probably a number of others who would also be interested in upgrading their locks.

 

[54ball]

mjn
Some of the smaller Pedersoli line have whats known as a patent breech. This design is very good for percussion if kept clean but can be miserable for a flintlock. If the lock sparks and sets off the prime every time but the rifle does not go boom the problem is not the lock but the pathway between the prime and the main charge.

Some patent breech designs work really well like the TC, especially if the breech chamber is large enough.

The patent breech is where the rear barrel plug of the rifle has smaller chamber than the rifle bore. The ignition takes place in this chamber and sets off the main charge. Since it is smaller than the main bore a standard size cleaning rod will not clean it. Actually fowling can be pushed into this area with a standard jag causing finicky ignition. For the rifle to work well with this design the breech must be kept dry and clean.

I would not waste my time and money re-locking a new Pedersoli. When all is said and done you could have bought a higher grade rifle.

Since we are in the midst of The Great Depression the Sequel it is a buyers market. You can find a very nice used semi custom or completed rifle from a new builder very reasonable. Sometimes cheaper than the cost of parts. I did and right here on the forum classifieds.

 

[mjn]

Well this was an idea that I was toying with. I really liked the feel of the Pedersoli but the lock was manure. It destroyed flints, failed to spark half of the time and was generally junk. I would still have the gun if it was a cap lock, but I wanted a flinter. I am not new to bp guns. I have been playing with them for 13 years. When all is said and done I think I'll end up with a PA or full stock Hawken kit from TOTW or someone else. Thanks everyone.

 

[ebiggs1]

If you will only try this I bet you will be surprised how much better the lock will work. You need to thin the frizzen spring. It is too strong. Several of us have done this and it seems to have helped all. Plus it will cost you very little to try.

 

[RADeO]

You need to thin the frizzen spring.

Ebiggs, would you give us some more information about this? How much did you have to thin yours? I presume you CAREFULLY ground the outside of the spring until you came to some arbitrary point at which it worked better on your particular lock. Did you by chance make before and after measurements?

I'd be willing to give it a try on my spring with the guidance of someone who has already BTDT and was successful in their efforts. Thanks very much.

 

[Joel/Calgary]

If you will only try this I bet you will be surprised how much better the lock will work. You need to thin the frizzen spring. It is too strong. Several of us have done this and it seems to have helped all. Plus it will cost you very little to try.

Just to verify - you are talking about thinning the feather spring on the little dinky lock of a Pennsylvania/Kentucky/Cub, not that of the much larger lock on a Frontier/Blue Ridge, with a spring that probably started out on an F250 rear suspension?

Joel

 

[ebiggs1]

The only way I know to do this is trial and error. But frizzen springs are easy to get so if you mess up, no big deal. I did polish the little nub on the frizzen first. I just sanded the leaf spring but since Zonnie has told me that was not a good idea. He says making the spring more narrow is better in controling how strong it is. But looking at the rifle, I don't see that as a good alternative. If you try just do the top part where the nub on the frizzen rides. Stay away from the "V" part.

 

[ebiggs1]

You are correct I did this on a Cabela's Blue Ridge rifle. This is the rifle forum and I posted the suggestion thinking of the Blue Ridge rifle. I have not done anything to my pistol, which has a very strong spring too.

 

[ebiggs1]

Here is a quote from a post by "Trench" and it is where I got the idea. I did not thin mine that much.

"I filed down the top of my frizzen spring almost by half to reduce the tension on the frizzen. It's been better on flints since then. Also, polish the snot out of the spring and heel of the frizzen, then apply a very small amount of oil."
Trench

 

[Zonie]

One of the things that seems to be overlooked when speaking of the frizzen spring is the other thing that controls the amount of force needed to open the frizzen is the frizzen itself.

On the bottom of the frizzen is a cam that pushes against the frizzen (or feather) spring.

The height of this cam is directly responsible for the amount of force needed to open the frizzen and just how and when the springs force allows the frizzen to open.

I'll be the first to say that modifying this cam is more dangerous than messing with the spring but a lot of the locks made can be improved if it is modified a bit.
(The reason it is more dangerous is because if you mess it up you will have to replace the frizzen.)

Because the frizzen is cast there is sometimes a ridge of metal that was left by the pattern and this ridge usually goes right down the center of the cam. It's presence results in the spring being deflected more than the design calls for.

If you remove the frizzen and look at this cam area and you see a ridge of metal sticking out or you see a mis-match between the surfaces, grinding these off with a whet stone can make a noticeable improvement. Remember to keep the crown of the cam perpendicular to the sides (or parallel with the screw hole). Also remember that this cam must be rounded. It should not have a noticable flat spot on any part of it.

This surface should be polished to a smooth bright condition. All roughness should be removed.