Replacing single trigger w/ double set trigger

[echo89]

Okay, I just bought a Lyman Deerstalker flint .50 in a box for 5 bucks. Not the box, a box. I didn't ask how it got in there. All complete, except for the trigger. Can I substitute a double set trigger for the factory single trigger with out further rework? I have seen these Investarms rifles come with either set-up, with everyone's name on them, but I do not have an example to compare it to. I would miss the double trigger once I finish it. Hope the more experienced can help me, and thanks.

 

[LRB]

Your first concern will be if there is room in the trigger guard. If there is, it should be doable. You may have to move some wood for one part or another, but it should work.

 

[George F.]

I'm not familiar with the Lyman Deerstalker, but I don't see why not. It will just have to be inletted. Davis makes nice double set triggers. Are you familiar with inletting? It's really not hard, justs takes time. You'll need some transfer color. It's a film thats applied to the part to see where the part makes contact where you can't see. Some people buy Jarrows inletting black( it's a bit on the greasy side) others will hold the part over a candle or kerosene lamp, and let the soot collect on the part from a candle or kerosens lamp, some will use cheap lipstick. Just apply the stuff to the part and just position the part where you want it, give it a tap, remove the part, and remove the colored parts of the wood from the transfer color. You want to inlet the plate first, so remove the parts. Remove the front return spring,then the main trip spring. Use a 1/16 pin punch to tap out the pivot pins. Put these parts in a CONTAINER with a LID for two reasons, one to keep from getting other bench debris mixed in with it, two so they don't get kncked over and lost. Once you get the horns of the trigger plate inletted, the plate should be down to the surface of the stock. I HAVE TO BACK UP A BIT. You have to prepare the part for inletting.You file a slight bevel on the back side of the plate on the edges that are the front and rear extensions of the plate, this allows the knife to trace along the edges with out taking up the room for the thickness of the blade.That's sides , rear and front only. NOT THE HUMPS IN THE CENTER! Thats where the shoulder groove for the front return spring rides(I know this because my first one, I filed it almost all off, had to get a new plate).
Also I might add Before you buy a trigger... You have to measure with a depth guage from the stock to the sear bar. see if the tripped trigger will reach. JIM CHAMBERS sell a davis trigger with a higher trip bar about 3/16 than the DAVIS triggers. Just make sure it's going to reach. The other thing is you probably have to bend the rear of the trigger plate to conform to the shape of the stock. When you're pretty much all inletted, flush with the surface of the stock. you'll have to make a judgment call as to its depth, so long as the trigger fits and works. then file the plate down flush, take it out polish it up , drill the rear screw hole. I did forget to mention the front tang screw....
... You have to make sure it's not going to interfear with the trigger. The trigger plate comes pretty long, and I usually have to trim it down 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. But you'll have to lay this all out.If all goes the way it's suppose to with the trigger plate in you'll be able to drill the tang bolt. It might be a metric thread. Just make sure you use a tap drill for that size screw. After the hole is drilled, tap it through the tang into the plate. If you cant tap it all the way thru, take the tap out, the plate out and and finish tapping the hole.

IT'S REALLY NOT THAT HARD..... JUST TIME CONSUMING.....
GOOD LUCK.......George F.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Your first concern will be if there is room in the trigger guard. If there is, it should be doable. You may have to move some wood for one part or another, but it should work.

Ditto, the trigger guard opening is highly important.

If I am building up a hunting rifle with DS triggers. I always go for the large TG bow, so as to have room to use just the conventional front trigger with gloves on. Set is great for fine work, but I find not a good idea for general cold weather hunting.

 

[echo89]

Wow! Thanks. I had a good running start on some of what was added, but thanks for the details, especially from George F. Some things I hadn't considered are now in the thought process. I should have been more specific in asking about re-working the trigger / lock interface, but it'll get better as time goes by. Is adding to the new trigger (i.e. building up a weld) also an viable option if it's too low to reach the sear?

 

Before ya goes too far, try calling Lyman customer service about getting the trigger, and ask them the questions ya had about converting, you may need both a trigger and a guard. Then if they are of no help, try Track of the Wolf, the site is listed in the links section. Lyman will have the trigger that will fit the gun without too much rework, and track will have doable parts. Just :m2c: Bill

 

[daveol]

I replaced the original trigger on my GPR with a Davis Deerstalker.
If you think that an original Lyman GPR double set trigger will be a drop in, PM me your address and I'll send you the one I have. I don't think the Junk Drawer will miss it. :winking:

Can I substitute a double set trigger for the factory single trigger with out further rework?

Before ya goes too far, try calling Lyman customer service about getting the trigger, and ask them the questions ya had about converting, you may need both a trigger and a guard.

 

[flm_shooter]

Yes, it can be done. My wife just took 5th place at a local shooting rondy using her modified deerstalker. HERE is the link for an old thread I wrote on this. Even a ham-handed dremel-user like me can do it!

(I'm proud of the 5th place because she was shot double my final score, and she's only been shooting BP for 3 years now.)

(I hate her 5th place because she shot double my final score...)

 

[thehorn]

For the Lyman parts (GPR trigger guard & DST), you may want to contact Chuck Dixon at Dixon's Muzzleloading (Kempton , PA) as he's an official warranty/repair station for Lyman and may have these parts (used) for a very good price. He'll also be able to give you good advice on how to approach this project. Atlthough, the info you're getting from prior posts is top notch also. Good luck with the project.

 

[echo89]

Just for the info, the Lyman people replied this AM and said "No, you will need to re-inlet".

 

[echo89]

Finally finished. Took a lot of time to get to it, then to get to it again, etc. The trigger inletting info was priceless. New stock was eventually required, but I am much better with a chisel now. I owe daveol for the free trigger, if you need something, call, brother. Post a picture of the finished product as soon as I get this old jeep sold.

DC