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Richland Arms Co. rifle find

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tiredpof3

32 Cal.
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I just picked up my first muzzleloader!. It was not what I was planning on but the price was right. I found a Richland Arms Co. KY/Penn style rifle at an antique show for $60. It is in very good condition. My research has come up empty on this gun so far - not a lot of info on this company available on the internet. Gun is stamped:
Richland Arms Co., Blissfield, MI, made in Italy. There is then "Michigan" in all caps with an outline and next to it is "CAL". I think the sight is covering the caliber #.

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. I am sure that it is not worth a lot and that is ok. How do I easily find out the caliber and is it possible/or even worth it to change out the percussion for a flintlock?

It also has a double trigger. What is this for?

Thanks, guys.
 
They were importers from the 60s to the 80s. Not much info on the internet because they went out of business before the internet got started good. They seemed to import allot of shotguns and BP guns.

Unless it is totally junk(some what rare) you made a deal and the parts are easily worth more than you paid. If you have a drill bit set you can find an approximate bore size. Not exact but will give you a start. Most likely is 45 or 50 cal. Have fun with your new gun.
 
It was a fur coat company that one of their sons branched out into importing firearms

They were nice guns at the time. :)


William Alexander
 
The double trigger is for a set trigger. It is adjustable (when working properly)with a small screw underneath on how light of a pull will set it off. One trigger is pulled which sets the other so it is ready. Some of them can be set off without the preset but it takes a harder pull.
 
The double trigger is known as a "set trigger".

The front trigger works just like a single trigger on regular guns. Pulling it will release the hammer and fire the gun.

The rear "set trigger" can also fire the gun if the lock is cocked.

The set trigger is a spring loaded device that is cocked by pulling it back before you try to fire the gun.
When it is pulled back, the front trigger holds it in this cocked position.

With the rear "trigger" "set" (cocked) it takes just a few ounces of pull on the front trigger to release it. Another way of describing it is to say the rear "set trigger" turns the front trigger into a "Hair Trigger".

It is safe to "cock" the rear trigger and then release it with the front trigger IF the hammer is in the "fired" position or in the "cocked" position.
It is NOT safe to cock and release the set trigger if the guns lock is in the "half cock" (safe) position.

Often, after someone who doesn't know what they are doing messes with it, the rear "set trigger" will refuse to stay cocked after it has been pulled back.

If this is happening with your gun, locate the small screw that is positioned just behind the front trigger.

Using a small screw driver, unscrew this little screw at least 2 to 3 full turns. Then, retry setting the rear trigger. It should stay "cocked" until the front trigger is pulled.

If the rear trigger refuses to stay cocked after backing off the little screw, take the screw out of the trigger plate.
If the rear set trigger refuses to stay cocked after removing the screw, let us know and we can walk you thru the more extreme things that might be needed to fix it.
 
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Lets try this again.
 
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Now I figured it out.

Gun is 51 1/2 inches long, barrel is 36 inches, octagonal and .45 cal.
 
Not a bad looking rifle. I'd replace the ram rod though with something better. They usually aren't very good with the cheaper guns and you don't want it braking and going through your hand.
 
As Mooman76 mentioned, the ramrod should be looked at.

If you plan on just hanging the rifle up as a decoration, the ramrod is probably OK.

If you intend to shoot the gun and use the ramrod for loading, check it out looking for the thing shown in my drawing


Notice the pointed areas of the grain where it breaks out of the side of the stock.

If your ramrod looks like this, it is an accident waiting to happen.

The "grain breakout" is the result of the wood grain not being continuous from one end of the ramrod to the other.
When heavy loads are applied to a ramrod with this defect the grain can shear (break) leaving a razor sharp point that can (and has) easily penetrate hands and arms while the shooter was reloading.

There are several different muzzleloading supply places that sell good ramrods so if your going to shoot the gun, either get a dedicated "range rod" (a metal ramrod, usually with a knob on it), or a good piece of wood without grain runout. (Hickory is the very best.)

If your ramrod is good and you intend to use it to load and clean your gun, check out the brass tip on it.

You should see a small pin going thru the brass and wood, located close to the place that the brass ends.
Most factory ramrods just have the tip pressed or glued on. These have a bad habit of coming off when they are used to pull a cleaning jag out of the barrel.

If the ramrod doesn't have any grain runout and the tip is not pinned, you can pin it in place by buying a short piece of 1/16 inch diameter brass rod and a 1/16" drill bit.

Drill a hole completely thru the brass and wood, close to the joint where they meet.
Use a pocket knife to enlarge the ends of the hole forming a slightly coned entrance to the hole.

Insert the brass rod completely thru the brass tip.

Cut off the extra material and use a hammer to gently pound the ends of the brass rod down into the hole on both sides. Then, file off any extra material.

The finished pinned tip should look somewhat like this.

 
Congrats! You got a good deal.

If you are comfortable with woodworking, that gun looks like it has potential of being rather pretty if some wood is taken off in the right spots.
 
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