• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Round ball ammo

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Kendrolot,
that 50 grain load is just for shooting at paper targets at a range of 25 yds. Haven't had the time to work out a hunting load. Remember I was using FFFg powder instead of FFg. It would have been about 60-65 grains of FFg. Others here are much more knowledge than I, and can explain better about the use of FFFg in a larger bore. To work up a hunting load I will start at 65grains of FFFg and go up in 5 grains steps to find the best accuracy at 75yds. Don't think I will chance a shot longer than that with the smoothbore.
Search the forum for other threads that deal with this subject. There are very knowledgeable people here who can help you.
Good to have you aboard and good luck!
 
paulvallandigham said:
Look for a "Dial Caliper", rather than the much more expensive "Digital Caliper". The later is just another place to store dead batteries, unless you are a professional machinist! :shocked2: :rotf: :hmm: :thumbsup:
Yeah, I've started storing my digital with the battery removed, 'cause I only occasionally need the precision. I'm getting fairly good at eyeballing quick-&-dirty accuracy (.01" or .1mm) without powering it up. Too bad they didn't include vernier scales as backups!

But they are not necessarily much more expensive if you can watch for sales. One of the local chain stores periodically has their house-brand digital caliper on sale for around $20 (Canadian, but the the current exchange is at ~$.95 U.S.).

Regards,
Joel
 
A 9/16ths punch will let you grow your wads for 50's, 54's and the 56 from a variety of land fill items. Golly willikers, I'm going green!
 
I am SOOOOOOooo glad I found this site. Thank you all for all your information. I am learning so much. I am rushing around trying to get ready to go on a wild boar hunt next week, but when I get back (hopefully with bacon in hand) I am definately going to be trying some different things with one of my favorite guns!
 
I make my punches to stamp out card from corn flake box's or better. I then put 3-4 on the powder and then pour the shot down and then just one card on top.

Britsmoothy.......I must not be looking in the right places. I can't seem to find a punch. You said you make your's??? Can you offer any advise?
 
I use the lathe at work to bore some hard steel and then braze it to an old leather punch or even mill a cut out on the bar so the cards fall out. After some gringing and even more time stoning the edge they work pretty good. Done a few over the years.

I can make them about .010" larger than my bore/s this way.

I may have a picture,,,,

Found Picture


charlies004.jpg


Brits.
 
:shocked2: OOoohhhhhh! :bow: :bow: You're more talented than I! It would take me 3 weeks to make that! Maybe if I put a tear in my eye my maintenance guys might help me.
 
What do you use for a surface to stamp in to? I've used pine lumber scraps but they get eat up pretty darn quick. Thought I might keep an eye out for an old plastic cutting board.
 
May I suggest:

Cut a stack of card stock each time, producing many cards, or wads with each cutting. It doesn't matter if the last sheet or two is not cut through completely. Stack those on top of some new sheets, and use them to guide the cutter into this new stack. It saves any cutting surface you otherwise will cut, and SAVES THE CUTTER, too, so you don't have to stop and resharpen it, also.

The same process also works if you are cutting cloth patches. :hmm: :thumbsup:
 
Hey everyone! I'm back with more questions! :hmm:
I put the calipers to my bore. I got .559 - .560 I have a box of about 20 balls that measure .557 and I can't get them in the gun! I was trying with a .010 patch. No luck. Should I throw them out?

Can I use a .530 ball? That's all I can get without special ordering.
 
If yours is a smoothbore, NO, you won't be able to get it in the barrel. It should go in an rifled barrel, however. Go down to the .530-.535" balls, and use a thicker patch material. Try Mattress ticking, at .018" thickness, and a good beeswax/oil lube. You will need to clean the barrel after each shot if you want any kind of accuracy. :v :thumbsup:
 
Joel/Calgary said:
Yeah, I've started storing my digital with the battery removed, 'cause I only occasionally need the precision. I'm getting fairly good at eyeballing quick-&-dirty accuracy (.01" or .1mm) without powering it up. Too bad they didn't include vernier scales as backups!

But they are not necessarily much more expensive if you can watch for sales. One of the local chain stores periodically has their house-brand digital caliper on sale for around $20 (Canadian, but the the current exchange is at ~$.95 U.S.).

Regards,
Joel

I picked one up at Harbor Freight for $15 on sale. It came with two batteries. It's supposed to turn itself off, but if something in the case touches any of the buttons or jars the jaws, it turns on automatically. Replacement batteries are 3 for $5 at Walmart, unless you buy an LED light/laser pointer with two sets of 3 batteries for $3. Then you have a Bore light and loads of 50 cent batteries for your calipers. :)

I use an unfinished cutting board made from 2X4 scrap. I lay the material on the grain end of the wood. If I wear out that end, I'll flip it over the the other end and then use my bandsaw to cut off an eigth of an inch to refresh it, but after several hundred wads of various calibers, I haven't worn out either end, yet.
 
The new, " digital" calipers have been aptly described as "just another place to store dead batteries!" :shocked2: :blah: :rotf: :idunno: :surrender: :nono:

Unless you are a professional machinist, its pretty hard to justify owning them. A Dial Caliper is available for $20.00 and less, usually made in China, but more than adequate for the hobby gunsmith, that uses no batteries, but gives amazingly accurate readings, on an easy to read dial. Its a major step up from the older Vernier calipers( I have my father's) which work fine, when you understand how to use them.

I recommend you check the estate sales, and pawn shops, and used tools sales( flea markets and garage sales) for a lot of great tools that people simply don't want anymore. I have bought tools that were New in the box that someone was given and never used, at pennies on the dollar for what they would cost today.
 
kendrolet said:
I put the calipers to my bore. I got .559 - .560 I have a box of about 20 balls that measure .557 and I can't get them in the gun! I was trying with a .010 patch. No luck. Should I throw them out?
You could sell or trade them to someone, or you could use them bare with your normal wadding and overshot card, in place of the birdshot. This actually how civilians normally loaded ball in smoothbores back in the day, based on what I've read. Rifles and their patched balls were "different" from the smoothbore norm. I believe Bob Spencer discusses this in one of the articles on his excellent site: http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/

Regards,
Joel
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Latest posts

Back
Top