Roundball Loading Block - Help!

[NoJacketRequired]

Hi FOlks,

I'm hear to report abject failure of an experiment and to request your advice/assistance in correcting the error of my ways. Here's the scoop.

I shoot a few .50 cal roundball guns and decided I'd try to make a load block - something to hold my patched roundballs. The idea was to have a loading block with several holes drilled in it. These holes would be filled by a .490 ball and a pre-lubed .015" patch. At the range I'd just push the ball through the block with my short starter.

The block I built is made from a plain chunk of 1"thick maple. I drilled 'er full of 1/2" holes, then reamed them out so the ball and patch combination fit snugly enough so they wouldn't fall out. The only problem is that when I load the balls in my rifles they pretty near fall down the barrel - I don't even have to whack the handle of my starter to get them started - I just push 'em in.

What the heck am I doing wrong? Any suggestions as to how to go about building a loading block would be much appreciated as I've now proven to myself that I'm totally clueless! :youcrazy: :shake:

 

G'day No Jacket Required.

Try using plastic. A mate of mine uses the plastic kitchen cutting boards for his 36 cal front stuffer. Works well for him. :m2c:

Have no idea why wood would not work for you but maybe you have too small a hole and the lead is being swaged.

Cheers from down under
Aussie Bob

 

[Huntinfool]

Happy Birthday Aussie Bob,

No Jacket sounds like Bob may be right on the swaged part.

I just recently work my new block up. I made the holes big enough that I can easily push the ball and patch back and forth with my fingers. But tight enough it won't fall out.

Did the ball and patch go easily on down the barrel? If not I don't see a problem if they stay in the block and then start easy but tighten up as they go on down.

Chuck

 

[Stumpkiller]

How much effort is it to place them in the block? You only need it tight enough for easy thumb pressure. The block does make it easier because the patch is already formed (don't let the word get out - everyone will want one). It shouldn't swage the lead at all. I've made them out of maple, cherry and pine, and none of them compress the balls any that I can tell. I countersink the top so that it's even easier to start them in. One inch is very thick. You only need 1/8" over ball thicknessto keep the patch from rubbing or picking up crud.

I can load my .54 without a short starter and for my .50 I just have a 1-1/2" stub starter. I kind of like that, actually. If they shoot well, don't knock it. ::

 

[gordy]

One other thing You can do,at least for half stocks ,is to put a recess that fits over the muzzle in the backside of Yor block.Of corse this dosn't work for fullstocks.I have several blocks made with different woods but unless You want the muzzle hole,5/8ths is plenty thick for .50-.54 cal.I have some that are paddles with 16 patched balls ea.,great for the range or plinking.I wrap them in seran wrap to keep the lube from getting dirty till I'm ready to use them, it also keeps the lube from drying out.The blocks I carry afield only have 6 or 8 patched balls ea..I think the others may be right about swageing the balls.Keep working at it,thats the way to learn! :thumbsup: PS Happy birthday to the Aussie,may you enjoy many more :redthumb:

 

[NoJacketRequired]

Thanks to all for your helpful suggestions. Yes, 1" is probably too thick now that I think about it, so I'll look around for some 5/8 material and try that. From your comments it's got to be too much restriction in the block that's swaging the lead ball because it goes all the way down the bore very easily. Looks like the solution to that is to do more reaming of the holes, and I'll take that countersink suggestion to heart - sounds like a much better idea than my original experiment.

Once again, thanks to all for the great feedback. And Happy Birthday Aussie!

 

[pepperbelly]

I am a complete newcomer to blackpowder, and haven't made a loading block yet so this is a WAG, but instead of swaging the lead ball could your block just be compressing the lubed patch?
If the block was tight enough to alter the lead ball wouldn't the wood split or crack first? If the lead ball is soft enough I could possibly see it being shaped into an oval shape, but being swaged seems extreme.
Are the lead balls that soft?
Jim