Router bits

[rickjf]

Does anyone make router bits specific to routing octagon barrel channels?
Rick

 

[paulvallandigham]

If they do I would discourage you from attempting to use them. Removing that much wood is best done in stages in any hardwood. With Maple, because of the nature of the wood, its equally worth while to use a table saw to cut the outside lines the width of the barrel, and to the depth of the bottom flat. An end router bit can then be used to remove the wast material between the cuts, leaving only the bevel left to do. That can be done with a beveled router bit, typically in one pass, although many builders horse most of the wood out the first pass, and then go back with a fine cut to finish the bevel to dimension. You can burn up router motors, and dull router bits if you ask them to cut too much wood all at once. Worse, you can induce chatter, and that is a good way to destroy lines, or wood or both.

I have seen people use an end mill to try to cut a barrel channel in wood in one pass, using a router bit. They think because its only wood, they can just cut as much wood as the bit is long. They forget that when cutting metal, they are either automatically coolign the bit with oil/water, or standing there spraying oil on the bit to cool it. You usually don't want to be spraying oil on cutters when cutting fine woods. It creates a mess that you then have to clean up, and the oil may just work its way into the wood where you can't get it out. That can ruin a wood stock.

I am sure that Shopsmith can make any size router bit you seek.

 

[George Holton]

:v A shaper will do the whole job with a special cutter in about three passes. A shaper is normally bigger,heavier and runs faaster than a router. Bob

 

[Bob Gular]

Actually a router has a much faster spindle speed than a shaper, typically 23,000 rpm compared to around 15,000 rpm. I have always used a table mounted router with a V-grooving bit to cut octagon barrel channels. The proper method is to make successive light cuts with the stock blank captured between two fences so you don't overcut the vertical flats. An observation of improper tool usage should not automatically lead to the assumption that it is the wrong tool for the job.
Just a couple sparks from this side of the fire.
Bob Gular

 

[maypo59]

There is no reason at all to not do it with a router bit. You will be removing a good amount of wood so you should use a jig or guide and do it in multiple passes. I remove more wood then you are talking about all the time when I make raised panel doors.
Shapers do in fact spin slower than routers, and thats because shapers are meant to be used with larger diameter bits and cutters, and it's all about the tip speed of the tool. You could get a custom bit worked up to cut the final angles in the channel, but you won't like the price.. it would be better to build a jig to hold your stock and just use a 90degree V bit, and move your stock as needed.

edit: BTW if you want to try a custom bit, you want to talk to the maker about a "lettering" bit. They should have about the right profile from the get-go.

 

[mazo kid]

I've made several barrel channel router bits from spade bits; just grind your contour for whatever size barrel, sharpen appropriately and then cut the shank off about 1-1/2 to 2" long. In use, I set the stock between two fences and take MANY light passes. Just go slow and you will be surprised at how well it works. You could also use Paul's suggestion about using a table saw to establish your outside barrel dimensions.

 

[Don B]

I presume most of you using routers to inlet barrel channels are inletting staight barrels, not swamped? Anyone have experience using a router for swamped channels? I can imagine using a jig to guide a bit along a swamped profile in the top plane of the stock, but not so easily in the "depth" axis. Do you use the router to remove wood to the minimum dimensions (waist) of the barrel and then do the rest by hand?

 

[mazo kid]

DonB, I have never inlet a swamped barrel; however I am now doing a tapered octagon-round barrel and I used the small end as my minimum diameter cutter and will remove the rest by hand....scraper, rasp, chisel, etc.

 

[44-henry]

Your right on the speed but a 1 1/2 hp shaper will run circles around a 3hp router any day for heavy work.

 

[maypo59]

Your right on the speed but a 1 1/2 hp shaper will run circles around a 3hp router any day for heavy work.

Yes, and thats the reason for both, each does roughly the same thing, but they do it differently, and depending on what job/bit you are doing/using, is how you decide which to use. They each have their place.

As far as routing for a swamped barrel, havn't done it, but, it would just be a matter of using a profiled jig. I have done stuff carving out or hogging large areas of back panels and stuff to help my wife on some of her carvings, would be quite easy to set up a jig, mount the stock in it, then use a plunge router to work your way down. Same way you would use a jig to swamp the sides. Instead of a guide bushing on the bit, the base plate would ride on your jig to cut the swamp on the bottom. In fact, I bet if I tried I could figure out a jig to do both at the same time.

 

[Runner]

I used a 3/4 round and a 45 to cut the angles in after the round removed most of the wood. I used a straight bit to clean up the bottom. The tip of the 45 bit was slightly digging into the bottom flat when all was bedded in so tight it was hard to get out. I finished the bedding by hand. A mill would be better, but it is easier to build a simple jig on the router table and test your changes as you go on scrap. My mill requires you to move the wood a couple of times to cut a full length rifle channel, so the router wins hands down!

 

[Zonie]

I've used a straight 5/16 inch carbide router bit to cut barrel channels with.

Using many passes, I first cut in the center flat to full depth. Then readjusting my setup and raising the bit, I used many passes to cut the side flats to a depth that would match an octagons needs.
This formed a "T" shaped channel.

I used a 1/4 wide chisel to cut the 45 degree surfaces that connect the bottom flat and the side flats.

All of this cutting was done while the lower area of the stock was unshaped so it was very stout.
If the lower area had been cut away prior to my routing the barrel channel I'm not sure how I would have done it.
Even taking many very light cuts, there is a lot of pressure going into the wood and just one whip or movement of the wood while it's being routed will create a pile of very expensive firewood.