Ruger Old Army spares...

[gl1200a]

Only one way they get bent.
Forget to tighten the retaining screw.
I've yet to see one that could not be straightened
and work just fine.

 

[M. De Land]

My retaining screw just cams over it doesn't tighten but not sure that is how all models are. MD

 

[RLWagner]

Try rugerforum.com and see if someone has an extra. Or just straighten the one and use it.

 

[gl1200a]

Locked would of been a better term for me to use than tightened.

If I was in need of one I would not hesitate to call Ruger.
A while back they didn't have cylinders, now, supposedly they do.

 

[TFoley]

See ALL my ROA spares posts from last year - according to the fine young lady at S,R Inc., there are positively NO spares that are NOT common to the Blackhawk series of revolvers.

And, as Zonie noted, positively NO cylinder pins - hence my attempts to get some made by a local aerospace company that proved fruitless as I could not raise enough interest to even get the minimum number made.

Please, by all means, try again, somebody. for sure I got nowhere with S,R Inc., having bought the VERY LAST four S/S rear frame screws in existence almost two years ago now.

tac

 

[TFoley]

Those arbors don't strike me as taking a PhD in astrophysics to duplicate. Back around 1980 Mr. Garret had an Italian Company work up a Sharps reproduction to his specs. There has got to be a company willing to run off a few hundred parts at a reasonable price.

I eagerly await the results of your efforts.

Thank you.

tac - not holding breath.

 

[M. De Land]

I wonder about what kind of strength is needed here for the base pin. They don't appear to be particularly hard or they would snap instead of bend.
Any ideas as to steel needed for a base pin?
I'd think O-1 left in the annealed state would be plenty strong and not have to worry about warping out of line when heat treating. MD

 

[Zonie]

As I recall, tac wanted it to be made out of stainless so it would match his gun.

I'm betting after failing in his quest he'd be willing to accept a good steel.

Rather than trying to guess what the existing, easily damaged pins are I would suggest a heat treated 4130 or 4340.
The heat treat would be somewhere in the high HRC 30's to low 40's.

Anyone bending a pin made out of either of those (or a similar) steel shouldn't be handling anything more delicate than a rock.

 

[M. De Land]

Heat treating is the buggaboo Jim after making all the cut outs in a long spindly shaft affair like this base pin. It will almost certainly warp out of alignment when oil quenched from what it is turned and base pins have to be really straight, especially tight ones. It could be hardened first but then the carbide cutting tools really take a beating and filing is impossible.
I'm thinking the base pin doesn't need to be particularly strong as it's job is just to pin everything in line for the frame to hold the stresses. If that is correct than one could be made out of rather soft stainless steel rod or annealed chrome-moly and left as is. Safety has to be the first parameter and I just don't know what the specking is for base pins. MD

 

[M. De Land]

Just dawned on me what material to use. Stress proof steel. I use it for making firing pins as it is already pretty hard but still machinable and very strong. Not sure I have it in the .500 diameter required to make a ROA base pin though and the stuff is expensive. MD