Russell steel

[wayne1967]

What type of steel are the Russell green river knives made of?

 

[rusty]

I am sure they are 1095 carbon steel

 

[necchi]

Don't know, but they do take an edge real nice.
The smaller "patch" knife blades are OK but you might be let down with the bigger blades, they're not real thick.
I really like the "spear" patch blade, and you can buff the stamp off it.
But for the price they'er a goodnuf' blade, :idunno:

 

[wayne1967]

Thanks. I was thinking about getting one of their butcher knives and reshaping it.

 

[Twice boom]

I don't know what part of the knife you going to be grinding on to get the shape you want. But let me caution you that you stand a good chance that you will loose the hardness associated with the area you going to grind on. And I doubt the blade is soft enough to use a file for the shaping.
Just a thought.
Twice.

 

[wayne1967]

Yah, that's why I was asking. If it is 1095 I am not going to attempt to reharden it if I get it too hot on the edge. I think I will just get a 1/8" bar of 1075/1080. Wish I could find it locally to save on shipping. Thanks.

 

[Twice boom]

You are welcome. But, again you will have the same issues regardless with the type of metal you choose if the knife is not made from metal that is air hardeable. Like, high alloy chromium type blades .

If you choose to go with your first choice, There are more than enough knife makers on the forum that will be able to walk you through re hardening and tempering your reworked blade..

Good luck.
Twice.

 

[jbtusa]

I just got a new 5" hunter Russell Green River blade. It is thinner metal than one I have from 30+ years ago. I'm a little disappointed but it is still a great knife. ...Glad that I got it b/c my old one is getting pretty ragged.

 

[LRB]

Take your time, cool it often, do any grinding bare handed, and you should have little problem.

 

[LaBonte]

Take your time, cool it often, do any grinding bare handed, and you should have little problem.

What Wick said - here's a reshaped to a scalper pattern GR blade - ground low and slow with plenty of dunks to cool. And yes GR uses 1095 amd yes the newer ones are a bit thinner but then agains they are no thinner than many if not most of the originals of English make. If you want a little thicker blade start with a 10" blade rather than shorter.

PS DO NOT wear gloves while grinding - you want to feel the heat! :hmm:

 

[Twice boom]

I agree with Wick ,But even then, you should not allow any part of the blade to turn deep blue while grinding. So keep an eye on the area being grinded on .
Twice.

 

[LRB]

Were it me, I wouldn't allow any colors. In my experience about the time you see even light straw it turns blue at the speed of light. Just go slow and have a water can there.

 

[phoenix511]

I've got six of their blades, including two from the 1980's. My experience is they take a very nice edge but will require frequent re-honing/stropping/steeling with use. The oldest blade, now about 30, has a few scattered pits.

They state they are "carbon steel," but that covers a wide range of alloys. They have a stainless paring knife, which I tried and could never get a good edge, plus this is not a correct knife for an 18/19th century re-enactor.

Mine have acquired a nice patina, a dark gray-brown and a bit uneven. The blades are quite thin and very good in the camp kitchen for slicing onions, carrots, potatoes, and corn-off-the-cob. I've had some that I kept in veg tanned sheaths that showed rust spots, for which I fault myself for keeping them there without oiling.

I'd be reluctant to sharpen one on a grinding wheel, as they are so thin and liable to overheat and loose the temper. A belt grinder is a bit more gentle, but a stone, oil, and patience are best.

 

[Twice boom]

You got that right Brother Wick. And why I said he stands a good chance to ruin the blade. :thumbsup:
How's it going buddy any projects you care to share with us.
The very best to you always.
Twice.

 

[wayne1967]

Nice knife. I was wanting to make something with a little bit of a drop point. What's the blade thickness of the 10"? I've hardened and tempered blades before but never messed with 1095. I remember in an old post Wick talking about it being tricky to work with.

 

[Twice boom]

If you gonna be working on the spine of the knife you will have a much easier time with it. Just watch the colors like Wick said and dip often.If you have a belt sander it will help if you use a new belt. You'll be good to go.
Twice.