• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Rust bluing barrel boiling questions ?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kyron4

50 Cal.
Joined
Dec 25, 2021
Messages
1,332
Reaction score
2,704
Location
Indiana
Preparing to rust blue the barrel of my Hawken rifle using LMF browning solution. I made a trough out of a 3' section of aluminum gutter capped on both ends, and I tested it out today using an old Coleman 3 burner camp stove.

1. The water was only boiling/bubbling under each burner , not the entire length of the trough. Is this okay ?

2. Some of the paint/coating of the gutter flaked off during the process. Does it need stripped off or is it of no concern ?

3. Do I need to suspend the barrel in the water, or just put it directly on the bottom of the gutter ?

4. Can the same water be reused for each boiling session ?

-Thanks
 
Good questions. I've only done small parts for rust blueing with LMF and had good results,,
I'll share my experience,
1. I'm gonna say Yes, it's the temp across the trough that matters, boiling water is boiling, the hot spots over the heat source won't matter,, stir it before the drop.
2. Well, now that some has come off,, I'd give the aluminum a good scrubbing with a scotch pad to take any more loose stuff off, but a few tiny floating flakes won't matter.
3. Just drop it in, it's the "Scald" of the H20 that changes the oxide from red to blue, it's a chemical thing,,
4. Nope, I had to learn that one the hard way,, what the direction say about distilled water does matter, the water needs to be real close to H2O, without any iron, calcium or chlorides that are in tap and/or well water will mess it up, one dip and the H2O got's a bunch of Fe in it.
You got the directions right?
https://www.laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown_inst.htm
The neat thing about LMF, is it's so easy to re-do if you don't like the first results,
 
I think you will be just fine. I use a gutter as well and I do not have boiling water the whole length either. Some people just put the barrel in a tube and pour the water on it.

Cant speak to the paint flaking.

I let my barrel and other parts simply sit on the bottom.

I use the same water. Usually it is distilled.

Fleener
 
I've only used distilled water for rust bluing. I didn't know you could use tap water...
And I change it each time.
Large parts I suspend and small parts are put in a strainer basket. Just like using salts. I give them a shake.
 
You are taking a risk if you use anything but distilled water; some folks seem to get away with it using tap/well water but I haven't been that lucky. I buy several gallons and top off the tank as I go.
 
I use Mark Lee's Express Blue and it has always worked well for m. I use my tap water which is hard and city treated and again it works for me. Here are two different rifles that I used the express rust blue on and they came out very good (I think) :dunno: :ghostly::ThankYou:
P1020998.JPG
P1030003 (2).JPG
64 Barrel.JPG
70 Barrel.JPG
72 Rifle (1).JPG
72 Rifle (2).JPG
P1030016.JPG
 
Thanks, guys for all the info. and yes I plan on using distilled water, I bought 6 gallons just to make sure I have enough .
 
Follow up question(s) from someone who has never tried this method.
Are the parts resting on the bottom of the pan and it causes no blemish?
How are you sealing the barrel channel or do you not worry about it?
 
In my pictures above the small parts are resting on the bottom of the aluminum pan and the barrels are suspended in the steel gutter. On my first few barrels I plugged both the nipple/flash holes and bore but the process pushed out the bore plug so I now don't plug any of the openings. Think of it as cleaning your rifle after a shooting session at the range.
 
No issues with any parts touching the bottom and not blueing properly. I used to try and seal the barrel. Several years ago I quit trying and I leave the end of the muzzle open. No issues and much easier.

No issues with the inside of the barrels.

Fleen er
 
1. It's winter in summer it will work fine. My tanks sit on a full-length burner made using Brownells gas heads so it don't matter .

2.Paint spots floating not good. My tanks are welded stainless steel.

3. Hot water is hot water no need for full boil as long as over 200 F should be fine. Using LMF

4 Never used distilled water just MY tap water from my rural well. I can see city water messing it up. Always used a fresh tank every time.

I also card under the warming water.
 
I haven’t boiled a barrel in a long time. I use a piece of. PVC pipe a bit longer than the barrel, wring a cap on the bottom end and a bell reducer on the top to act as a funnel. You might drill a small hole in the cap as it is meant to leak. Lash the pipe securely to something vertical. Then I put the barrel in the pipe. I use my turkey fryer to boil water, and ladle the water over the barrel filling the pipe, refilling as the level drops. When I run out of water in the pot we’re done. I normally do this outside on my front porch as I have a convenient post to attach the pipe to and no worries about spilled water. Much easier than rain gutters etc. BJH
 
I use a piece of galvanized chain link fence post pipe. File a notch in the end for a piece of steel rod. Hang the barrel with a piece of wire through the tang hole. Pour in boiling water. You can then heat the pipe with a propane torch to keep the water boiling if you wish. The other end is just capped with a post cap.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0703a.JPG
    IMG_0703a.JPG
    313.3 KB
  • IMG_0706a.JPG
    IMG_0706a.JPG
    193.1 KB
I use a piece of galvanized chain link fence post pipe. File a notch in the end for a piece of steel rod. Hang the barrel with a piece of wire through the tang hole. Pour in boiling water. You can then heat the pipe with a propane torch to keep the water boiling if you wish. The other end is just capped with a post cap.
Excellent results, what grit of sandpaper did you use on the barrel ?
 
I use 400 grit as well. I like the end results finish. For the first timers, it will take several applications especially at 400 grit to start to get a good even finish, don't despair, the finish wont stay blotchy.

Fleener
 
Back
Top