My experience with Birchwood-Casey Plum Brown is that the temperature of boiling water isn't hot enough to give satisfactory results. I'm going to check out the Laurel Mountain product for my next project.
I can never get Plum Brown to work without causing streaks.. I am also wary of using a torch near gun barrels.. I do a fair bit of work on double shotguns, and there is far too much soft solder around for me to use a gas torch.. replacing sprung ribs is not my favourite occupation!My experience with Birchwood-Casey Plum Brown is that the temperature of boiling water isn't hot enough to give satisfactory results. I'm going to check out the Laurel Mountain product for my next project.
Yes, getting that "look" is the hardest part, but maybe that look isn't representative of the methods used. It sounds like you're mostly happy with the results, so accept them, and try something different for your next project. Don't let it put you off completely from trying. It's only by trying something different that we find what works for us....while it looks nice, it's not exactly the look I was going for.
That is what I wanted to know1 I only have two to build currently, so I should have way more than enough with the 2.5 ounce bottle. Thank youA "bit of string" question to be honest..
It depends on how many applications you choose to put on a barrel based on depth of colour and the character of the base metal. You don't need much and I have done about a half dozen guns from my current bottle which is about half empty.. (of which some may be evaporation...!)
... so about a dozen or so I would say! You really only want to use a tiny amount to just wet the surface. I suspect much gets thrown away on the patch.. so use small patches!
(bear in mind that I have to prise the stuff out of Brownells to get it this side of the pond. Also I am Scottish, and although I am not mean, I am "careful"!
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