My experience with Birchwood-Casey Plum Brown is that the temperature of boiling water isn't hot enough to give satisfactory results. I'm going to check out the Laurel Mountain product for my next project.
Rust bluing
- Thread starter Jason holgate
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Felix the Cat
40 Cal
I can never get Plum Brown to work without causing streaks.. I am also wary of using a torch near gun barrels.. I do a fair bit of work on double shotguns, and there is far too much soft solder around for me to use a gas torch.. replacing sprung ribs is not my favourite occupation!
I have been very pleased with Laural Mountain. It is slower than Plum Brown, and it can get streaky if you are not careful, but the finish evens out with use and/or a bit of wet 0000. The degreasing nature of the compound is also useful, although I still do an acetone washdown before starting, particulaly if there are any holes or crevices that can harbour oil or grease..
A good way to degrease a barrel is the old gunmakers process using chalk dust (whiting powder) mixed up in hot water or spirit. Paint it on and let it dry and it will adsorb any oil or grease. It can then be rubbed off with a clean cloth. It acts like a poultice, drawing out oil from any holes and crevices and it is easy to see it coming out... it is a bit messy though!
Some thoughts....
A. Laurel Mountain Forge is virtually fool proof. Only a couple of things.
1. Don't go beyond #320 grit on preparing the barrel. If you go to #600, etc. the metal does not rust as well. With EITHER the final surface will be the same. You don't get a smoother surface by going to #600. I've stopped at #240 and it is okay but the #320 is a little better in my opinion.
2. You really need a "sweat or damp box". Scrap plywood, will work. Put in a damp towel and a light for heat. Check the Net on how to make a damp box.
3. DON'T scrub back and forth with the solution, you will get a shiny iridescent or copper colored surface YOU CAN'T rust over. Have to start all over. In swiping the barrel if you miss a spot- DON'T go back, leave it for the next coat.
B. BLEACH. I also make hatchets and axes that I want to look old. Bleach is very powerful and can eat away a wormlike pattern in the metal very quickly so be careful and dilute the mixture. Have VENTILATION! If you want to use that on a gun barrel- first try it on some scrap metal.
C. Blue or Brown? Both are pc. It was sometimes common to brown a barrel and blue the smaller parts. Blued barrels are pc but not as common. On the fur trade inventories some trade guns were "in the white" and I think these took on a gray finish with time.
A. Laurel Mountain Forge is virtually fool proof. Only a couple of things.
1. Don't go beyond #320 grit on preparing the barrel. If you go to #600, etc. the metal does not rust as well. With EITHER the final surface will be the same. You don't get a smoother surface by going to #600. I've stopped at #240 and it is okay but the #320 is a little better in my opinion.
2. You really need a "sweat or damp box". Scrap plywood, will work. Put in a damp towel and a light for heat. Check the Net on how to make a damp box.
3. DON'T scrub back and forth with the solution, you will get a shiny iridescent or copper colored surface YOU CAN'T rust over. Have to start all over. In swiping the barrel if you miss a spot- DON'T go back, leave it for the next coat.
B. BLEACH. I also make hatchets and axes that I want to look old. Bleach is very powerful and can eat away a wormlike pattern in the metal very quickly so be careful and dilute the mixture. Have VENTILATION! If you want to use that on a gun barrel- first try it on some scrap metal.
C. Blue or Brown? Both are pc. It was sometimes common to brown a barrel and blue the smaller parts. Blued barrels are pc but not as common. On the fur trade inventories some trade guns were "in the white" and I think these took on a gray finish with time.
Finishing a rifle barrel is what prevents me from building one. I'm not a builder--I'm a hobbyist. I managed to put together a very nice looking pistol, but browning the barrel was the toughest part, and in the end, while it looks nice, it's not exactly the look I was going for.
Yes, getting that "look" is the hardest part, but maybe that look isn't representative of the methods used. It sounds like you're mostly happy with the results, so accept them, and try something different for your next project. Don't let it put you off completely from trying. It's only by trying something different that we find what works for us.
James Holler
32 Cal
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How many applications can you get out of a 2.5 ounce bottle of barrel brown and degreaser from Laurel Mountain?
Felix the Cat
40 Cal
A "bit of string" question to be honest..
It depends on how many applications you choose to put on a barrel based on depth of colour and the character of the base metal. You don't need much and I have done about a half dozen guns from my current bottle which is about half empty.. (of which some may be evaporation...!)
... so about a dozen or so I would say! You really only want to use a tiny amount to just wet the surface. I suspect much gets thrown away on the patch.. so use small patches!
(bear in mind that I have to prise the stuff out of Brownells to get it this side of the pond. Also I am Scottish, and although I am not mean, I am "careful"!
It depends on how many applications you choose to put on a barrel based on depth of colour and the character of the base metal. You don't need much and I have done about a half dozen guns from my current bottle which is about half empty.. (of which some may be evaporation...!)
... so about a dozen or so I would say! You really only want to use a tiny amount to just wet the surface. I suspect much gets thrown away on the patch.. so use small patches!
(bear in mind that I have to prise the stuff out of Brownells to get it this side of the pond. Also I am Scottish, and although I am not mean, I am "careful"!
James Holler
32 Cal
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2024
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That is what I wanted to know1 I only have two to build currently, so I should have way more than enough with the 2.5 ounce bottle. Thank you
