Rust browning.

[Crow#21957]

I'm not to far from browning all the metal on my build. I've always used Flintlocks Inc solution they sell. Takes about 4 coats then wash and oil all of it. Anyone else use their rust solution. I can get any for quite awhile. And I do not like yhe plum brown solution.

 

[rchas]

Sorry, I have never heard of Flintlocks, Inc.---it sounds like good stuff. I have settled on Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution for both browning and rust-blueing. It works well when directions are followed precisely, and is pretty popular with builders.

I agree with you on Plumb Brown; I never really liked the color you end up with.

 

[Andrewmtnman]

I never heard of flintlock Inc. I have the TOW brand in my cart now. Was debating between that and Laurel Mtn. I've never used either. The Laurel mtn has the degreaser built in

 

[deerstalkert]

+10 on the LMF solution.

 

[tenngun]

Sorry, I have never heard of Flintlocks, Inc.---it sounds like good stuff. I have settled on Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution for both browning and rust-blueing. It works well when directions are followed precisely, and is pretty popular with builders.

I agree with you on Plumb Brown; I never really liked the color you end up with.

Follow the instructions…. To the letter. It makes a perfect brown, I’ve never done the blue. But…. Get a wild hare and do something crazy like wipe in the wrong direction you get a ugly copper color

 

[The Crisco Kid]

I've used LMF a lot over the years since that was the only solution that could be legally mailed to Alaska. It works great but there is a definite learning curve. The main trick is to put on as little as possible and never rub a spot. The blue comes out beautiful and is really durable. The last brown I did was with Danglers solution. It's easy to use and worked well. It gives a lighter colored brown than the LMF. Both work best in high humidity and warm temperature. I also have a rifle I browned with Plum Brown in 1976. It still looks good too, if you like the color of plums.

 

[Crow#21957]

I've cleaned all the metal up and took a small blotting like cloth and patted all metal with bleach. Then go back in 24 hrs and add a little birchwoodcaseys insta blue/cold bluing to the bleach and dobb all metallic again . Hive it at least a day maybe 2 the wipe down and oil. Man it looks good. Gives a slight gray color and some spots only way I know to explain is the bleach hives it like surface cancer.lol

 

[Tannehill]

Is LMF a cold browning solution?

 

[BS2366]

Is LMF a cold browning solution?

Yes. Plug your barrel. Rub it on lightly in one direction, not overlapping. Let it dry and sit aside 3-12 hours. I hung my barrel on the shower curtain rod and ran the hot shower with the door closed for about 5 minutes. Enough to get a mist on the barrel. Really kicks off the browning process. After a few hours, I rubbed the rust scale down with a piece of old denim. Then applied a second thin coat. Hung in the bathroom and ran the shower again. Let it hang for a few hours. Then rub with wet piece of denim and rinse in warm tap water. Apply another coat and repeat until you get the brown your looking for. When you are happy with the finish, rub it down with the denim dipped in water and baking soda to neutralize the rusting process. Then rinse with warm tap water. After that I heated with a torch and rubbed on non detergent sae 30w oil. Heat just to where the oil sizzles or smokes a bit. Around 130f. I hung my barrel in the garage and coated it and all small parts with oil and let sit for 3 days. Then wiped down and went over them with a mix of atf and motor oil as a rust preventative. Assembled rifle and coated everything with B.C. stock wax.

 

[kyron4]

Is LMF a cold browning solution?

Well it's applied "cold" as opposed to the BC Plum Brown which is applied to a heated barrel; but I wouldn't call it a cold blue . Many or steps and time required but the results are worth it.

 

[TDM]

LMF browning solution is excellent.

 

[TDM]

Is LMF a cold browning solution?

Yes. It can be heated/boiled for a blued finish. The instructions are easy to follow.

 

[Eric Krewson]

If you use LMF and get some of the dreaded copper looking spots from overlapping the application don't worry about it. I have seen posts where they recommended re-sanding the barrel and starting over if you get the copper color. It has been my experience to ignore these spots like they don't exist. Proceed with your next application of LMF over these spots and they will disappear and rust at the same rate as your previous coats.

Another thing that scared me on the second barrel I browned with LMF, it wouldn't stop the rusting, a baking soda slurry followed by an ammonia bath, heating the barrel and applying oil, nothing would stop the rusting.

The good folk on here assured me the rusting would stop in time, it may be a week or month but it would stop. On my barrel it took 6 weeks of occasional carding with a denim patch to come up with a patch without any rust on it. This extended rusting will be minor but it will be going on and be unsettling.

This is a month or so after my final neutralizing of the barrel. As you can see the barrel color is really nice, you can't see any rusting on the barrel but a scrub with a piece of denim will lift off a little rust.

 

[stewart.leach]

Good advice from Ghost23 and Eric K.

Only thing I do different is after letting barrel or other pieces set for two-three weeks is heat with an old hair dryer and rub in beeswax.

 

[BS2366]

Good advice from Ghost23 and Eric K.

Only thing I do different is after letting barrel or other pieces set for two-three weeks is heat with an old hair dryer and rub in beeswax.

I waxed the entire gun a few days after I oiled. Really makes it look nice!