rust on barrel bore wipe down

[troyandmarsha]

i've been reading where a lot of you guys
are able to keep your ML barrel bores rust-free.
after shooting i tear the gun down, wipe
everything down, clean the screws and relube
them with borebutter; clean the barrel with
hot soap & water, wipe the water out with
clean patches to remove excess water, then run
a couple of dry 50 cal. bore mops to snatch
any remaining water, then use a separate bore
mop with bore butter on it to lube the barrel.

then, next time, when i wipe the barrel out to
load it for hunting i get a couple of patches
with a lot of red on them :hmm: , thus the
dilemma. this gun is a CVA gun from the 70's,
it was abandoned by my f-n-law and i fixed it
up to being very accurate.

i store my gun in the basement...yes it is humid
down there...do you think that's what's killin'
me or is there something i'm doing wrong?....
even in spite of the borebutter in the bore?

another question: how do you get the very end
of the breech and surrounding bore clean...the
breech plug is non-removable, it is a hawkin
style rifle barrel.

 

[fw707]

Well, the humidity in the basement probably doesn't help, but I think if you'd use a good gun oil in the bore instead of the Bore Butter you'd have a little better results.
I have the same thing happen occasionally. I use a good oil on the last patch, and I leave the rod in the barrel with the patch on it. Then I run the patch up and down the bore a time or 2 for the next few days just to check. If I see much red on the patch, I put a new one on with some some fresh oil.
You might want to scrub the breech area with hot soapy water and a toothbrush when you're doing the cleaning, and then oil it down.

 

[roundball]

i've been reading where a lot of you guys
are able to keep your ML barrel bores rust-free.
after shooting i tear the gun down, wipe
everything down, clean the screws and relube
them with borebutter; clean the barrel with
hot soap & water, wipe the water out with
clean patches to remove excess water, then run
a couple of dry 50 cal. bore mops to snatch
any remaining water, then use a separate bore
mop with bore butter on it to lube the barrel.

then, next time, when i wipe the barrel out to
load it for hunting i get a couple of patches
with a lot of red on them :hmm: , thus the
dilemma. this gun is a CVA gun from the 70's,
it was abandoned by my f-n-law and i fixed it
up to being very accurate.

i store my gun in the basement...yes it is humid
down there...do you think that's what's killin'
me or is there something i'm doing wrong?....
even in spite of the borebutter in the bore?

another question: how do you get the very end
of the breech and surrounding bore clean...the
breech plug is non-removable, it is a hawkin
style rifle barrel.

Bore butter works fine if three things happen properly:

1) The bore MUST be 100% cleand;
2) The bore MUST be 100% dried;
3) Then every square inch of the bore walls MUST be plastered with bore butter to insulate the metal from the air, which has moisture in it.

If a bore is not 100% cleaned AND dried, then rust will simply start forming UNDER the bore butter no matter how much you plaster in there...they must be 100% clean and 100% dry first...cannot emphasize that enough.

 

[DrTimboone]

'IF a frog had wings he wouldn't bump his butt!".. or so it seems for me re getting things really dry. So I use some WD 40 and then blow it out then thooroughly swab/wipe with Ballistol (straight) or Lehigh Valley. I leave really soaked patch of the rust inhibitor in the bore for a few days and then check.. no problem with leaving a little excess of either of these in the bore til you wipe it before the next trip to the field... works for me.

Dr Wardlaw's test of rust inhibiting qualities of lubes showed pretty cleaarly that these two work best... bore buttter was way down the list.

"""Poke here"""

 

[CoyoteJoe]

Borebutter is not at all a good rust preventive, regardless of what the label may say. Don't be shocked but every marketer of every product sometimes will stretch the truth, and some just flat lie. Have you ever read a label on anything that didn't claim that product to be the best ever? And were you ever disappointed?
Skip the borebutter and use a moisture displacing oil such as breakfree or any good gun oil and you'll have no more rust.

 

[AZ-Robert]

'IF a frog had wings he wouldn't bump his butt!".. or so it seems for me re getting things really dry. So I use some WD 40 and then blow it out then thooroughly swab/wipe with Ballistol (straight) or Lehigh Valley.

I use much the same approach. After I get the gun clean I get it as dry as I can with rags and patches. Then I squirt a bit of WD-40 down the bore and stand the gun on its butt so the stuff can get down to the breech plug. When I'm satisfied that is done, I run a WD-40 soaked patch down the bore, squirt some into the inner workings of the lock, and run a pipe-cleaner soaked with the stuff through the vent.

I then wait until the WD-40 evaporates before I put the lock back on the gun. That takes a day or two around here, probably longer where you live.

Once the WD-40 has evaporated, I lube the lock's moving parts and put it back on the gun. If it will be a while before I use the gun again, I lube the bore and exterior parts with a gun oil. Most of the time I store them "dry."

I used to check for rust a couple days after putting the gun away by running an alcohol soaked patch down the bore. Never found any rust on that check but on the NEXT check I found "flash rust" created by the alcohol used in the first check. Now I use WD-40 or oil on the patch when checking for rust.

 

[hobbles]

Mornin Troy
You say you use bore mops, I use a jag with cleanin patches on it, It seems (for me) to be a lot tighter in the barrel and gets into the groves better, Just a thought,, I have a GM 54 cal barrel and I need to use a 50cal jag with 2 patches to get it tight and cleaned right,,

 

[Mikey the Barbarian]

WD-40 may not be historical correct, but its sure the best treatment for the bore. My guns cost too much to ruin.

 

[troyandmarsha]

thanks for the input guys.

i've been trying to avoid petroleum based
products such as a gun oil but if you guys
are successfully using it, i might give it
a try.

so i'm assuming you guys just wipe the bore
out thoroughly, like usual, prior to shooting
and everything works as usual. i never really
oil the lock thoroughly, but will try that
and just make sure i wipe the frizzen and pan
down with a alcohol swab prior to shooting.

the breech bore seems to be a difficult place to
scrubb effectively ...the breech plug is non
-removable so it is dependent on the jag on the
end of the rod.
how do you guys clean the breech bore thoroughly?
what type of jag or configuration?

 

[Landngroove]

the breech bore seems to be a difficult place to
scrubb effectively ...the breech plug is non
-removable so it is dependent on the jag on the
end of the rod.
how do you guys clean the breech bore thoroughly?
what type of jag or configuration?

You can use a powder well scraper, AKA breach plug scraper. It goes on your ramrod, and when inserted into the breach area, you twist it back and forth. However, if you pump hot soapy water through the barrel when cleaning, the water will clean the breach area too.

 

[roundball]

the breech bore seems to be a difficult place to
scrubb effectively ...the breech plug is non
-removable so it is dependent on the jag on the
end of the rod.
how do you guys clean the breech bore thoroughly?
what type of jag or configuration?

You can use a powder well scraper, AKA breach plug scraper. It goes on your ramrod, and when inserted into the breach area, you twist it back and forth. However, if you pump hot soapy water through the barrel when cleaning, the water will clean the breach area too.

Another good thing to have on hand is a regular centerfire cleaning rod with a 30cal brush attached...I use it to slide a patch all the way down into the patent breech to clean, or to dry, or to lube, etc...the bristles grip the patch so it doesn't come off down there

 

[renovato]

For long term rust proofing, you really can't beat CorrosionX. It's a general purpose gun oil and is a good lube for your lock and trigger too. It displaces moisture so if you have any left over from cleaning, it will lift it off the metal and form a film underneath it. It also bonds to the metal forming a self sealing film that will protect against rust forming, and shuts off the rusting process in any that has already formed.

Being petroleum based, you need to wipe it out before you shoot the gun.

I use it religiously to protect guns that don't get shot regularly and it has outperformed CLP and several others. I generally use Ballistol on guns that get shot regularly and I've never had a rusting issue, though I don't know that I trust it for long term storage. If I put a gun away for a while, it gets CorrosionX.

 

[AeroncaTAL]

For long term rust proofing, you really can't beat CorrosionX. It's a general purpose gun oil and is a good lube for your lock and trigger too.

Works on airplanes too!
Scott

 

[ffffg]

the rust is probably coming from the hot water.. use cold water and murphy soap oil mixed in about 50/50, with brush til clean then dry, and then oil.. i use alcohole after the water mix but it can be dangerous as the flame is clear and pilot lites etc can light it. the alcohol will get out the water.. but you must dry the alcohol as it will absorbe water. when its patch dry oil it. then oil it again two hours later with lightly oiled patch. make sure youve scraped the bottom of the bore and cleaned it/dryed it well, than run another dry lightly oiled patch the next night, if you see any rust during any of the three oil wipes your doing something wrong.. dave