Rusty Bore

[ohio ramrod]

I sent you a p.m. about lapping. If you are not familuar with P.M.s just look for the flashing signal. :idunno:

 

[russecv58]

another vote for using a .45 cal jag and some scotchbrite, but saturate it with WD40 and spray some down the barrel. another thing you may want to try, look at your local auto parts store. they should have some wire wheel cleaner. its for spoke wheels, and it will remove rust from chrome spoke wheels without hurting the chrome finish. rinses clean with plain water. not sure how it'd work for plain barrel steel. be sure to clean and flush the barrel really well when your done. just a thought. :idunno:

 

[mik1947]

Rainman,

Was that CVA an in-line shooter? If so, how do you think that method would work on an old side capped barrel? Any issues with the breech area since you can't open it up from both ends?

 

[rbseagle]

thanks guys for all of the suggestions. i am sure to get it clean by using one or all of them. is there some cleaning brushes more agresive than others. i seen huricane brush and so forth just wondering. i am hoping i can find some of that stainless steel sponge material to wrap around the cleaning brush if i can't i will use the smaller brush and the scotchbrite? thanks

 

[hounddog]

rbseagle, Most definately go the cleaning route first. All you will have invested is a little time, and mabey a few dollars in cleaning supplies. I have seen and cleaned up worse looking bbls than that, I would say you have a very good chance of saving the bbl with just a little elbow grease and patience. Be sure and shoot the gun when you get it cleaned, I have seenless than perfect bores shoot just fine. Then if worst comes to worse then think about rebarreling. Clean it, shoot it then decide! yours the old gunsmith hounddog

 

[paulvallandigham]

Anything put together, can be taken apart. You just have to know how to do it. CVA side locks, have a drum that goes through the breech plug. The drum has to be removed FIRST. THEN, and only then, can the breech plug be removed so you have access to the full length of the barrel.

Use the green scrubbies, and a good wire brush to hold onto it, and scrup the bore. With luck, all you have is surface rust, and not deep pitting. :thumbsup:

 

[rbseagle]

yesterday spent about 2 hours on the T/C barrel. who ever had it did not glean it at all when they had it. it took 30 minutes of scrubbing with a wire brush and cleaner just to get the scale of off the inside of the bore. when my patches quit coming out brown i start using a 16ga wire brush and some pb blaster to help loosing up any rust that was still in there up. after the 2 hours i have some shine in the barrel, but i can see a lot of places where the rust was at. i am guessing this is pitting and there not much i can do but lap the bore with some compound. i am surprised it has got any shine to the bore considering what it looked like when i started. can't wait to shoot it for the first time i am hoping that it will group good and don't tear my patches. i will keep everbody posted on how she does.

 

[Chris Hayes]

I use valve grinding compound on a brush with a patch cut from a t-shirt. I then use a range rod with no handle in my cordless drill. If you do this tho use ALOT of water to cut the valve grinding compound when your done. It will really shine up the bore, and made my GPR into a tack driver! Just don't overdo it, or it will take the lands right off...... trust me.

 

I would say it is ruined from the looks of the photo....if I were going to try and clean it use green scotchbrite on a one size smaller jag,the JB bore cleaner wont get it nor will a brush or any kind of solvent if after the scotchbrite you see more than just very fine pitting I would not waste my time on it

 

[rbseagle]

thanks for the info. i am going to try the scotch brite pad this weekend and see if i can't get it looking better. i finally found a light to see down the bore with, and it does not look as bad as i stated before but it is still not perfect. i still think i need to shoot it before i make any final decesion on the barrel though. i am going to try to post some pictures if i can get any good ones.

another question i have is do they blue the barrels after or before they rifle the barrel. the reason i am asking is at the muzzle on the inside it looks blue except where the rust was. i was just trying to figure out if the gun has been shot much i dont believe that it has. which is a shame that the person would let such a nice rifle get in that kind of shape. thanks

 

[rbseagle]

well i got out the T/C this weekend and went to scrubing in the bore with the scotchbrite pads and some stainless sponge that i found at the grocey store. i just pulled it apart and wraped around a brush and went to town.

i am real happy in the way it turned out the bore is nice and shinny. i can't see any pitting in the rifling area, but it is hard to see down the bore with a light. the only place where i know there is piting is in the QLA area where the rusting was the worst. here is some pictures they are a little blurry but you can see what is going on. i don't know why the pictures like it is still rusty but trust me it is not.

i hope to shoot it in a couple of weeks and will post some pictures of my targets then.

thanks to everbody for the help and suggestions. :bow:

 

[Zonie]

Don't worry about the QLA. It doesn't do anything anyway so some rust pits there is fine. :grin:

 

[rbseagle]

that is what i was hoping for. thanks