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rusty bore

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MosinRob said:
Every time i clean my guns after a range trip, a couple days later its all rusted. what the heck am I doing wrong? After shooting,I go home and mop with warm water and little soap. then cva foaming bore cleaner, then froglube. Any idea's? rusting cant be good. Heres a pic, i cleaned this gun two days ago. thanks guys
2012-09-10_23-07-03_707.jpg


Pyrodex perhaps?
In any case the rifle was not clean enough or was not dry enough and was not properly protected against rust.
Buy something that will actually prevent rust.
Soap is also corrosive so washing with soapy water requires a rinse with clean water. Water need not be hot for cleaning BP fouling but enough must be used to wash away the fouling.

Dan
 
It's OK to use a petroleum based gun oil/rust preventative providded that you remove any residual oil just before starting a new shooting session, that it why an alcohol patch is recommended as it does that well. Patch lubes shouldn't use petroleum products as they will react with the burning powder and cause all sorts of nasty grunge to form in the bore. I like the Birch-Wood Casey Barricade in the small cans because you can apply just one drop or a few to a cleaning rag or patch to coat the bore as well as all outside metal parts and it does a very good job keeping rust at bay on my guns. You might also want to try some JB's Bore Compound to remove and polish the rust out.
 
I'd ditch the CVA foam as well...after you've cleaned your barrel with soap and water..the Foam is not needed... I use WD-40 for week to week storage and for long periods I use cutting oil in my bores. Just remove the oils before loading by spaying some brake clean down your bore...followed by a dry patch..then either blow it out with an air compressor or allow to dry normally, before loading.
my 2 cents..
 
Only reason I still used it was its real good for removing lead from the barrel. Will soap and water do that?
 
Boiling water heats the barrel which in turn helps dry the barrel after you get the major moisture out. A little bear oil or olive oil works well.
Nit Wit
 
Rob, I use hot water with a small splash of Ballistol added. The Ballistol is supposed to help with leading. I shoot bare balls with tow wadding out of my smoothbore. After every trip to the range I see some leading on my first couple of cleaning patches, so I have to believe it works.

After cleaning with hot water and Ballistol, I dry with a couple of patches, then oil with Barricade. For the lock I use bear oil.
 
Nit Wit said:
Boiling water heats the barrel which in turn helps dry the barrel after you get the major moisture out. A little bear oil or olive oil works well.
Nit Wit


It also coats the bore with flash rust.
BTDT years ago. Don't need to repeat it.
Dan
 
MosinRob said:
Only reason I still used it was its real good for removing lead from the barrel. Will soap and water do that?

If you have leading it could be the root of the evil especially if you have fouling UNDER the lead.
It is very difficult to see the lead in a ML barrel.
I would advise that you completely degrease teh bore with denatured alcohol dry this, then with a jag with a patch on it force a wad of 0000 steel wool into the bore and see if it grabs any lead going down and back up.
If you have fouling under the lead and have been using a "rust preventative" with an alcohol or water content you have a problem.
If you have been using Pyrodex its probably fatal to the barrel.
This is another reason for not using projectiles that will lead the bore. In a BL its fairly easy to see and remove, in a ML rifle its more problematical.

Dan
 
MosinRob said:
Only reason I still used it was its real good for removing lead from the barrel. Will soap and water do that?

You shouldn't get lead in a m/l rifle bore if you are properly patched and lubed. I use J-B Paste and Shooter's Choice solvent occasionally in my smoothbores to remove lead.

I use B-C Barricade (was Sheath) after a warm tap water and soap cleaning. Then, before loading the next time out I wipe the oil out with an alcohol damp patch and wipe the bore slick with a lubed patch on a jag.
 
Clean with what ever method you like. I usually use soapy water. Then start dry patching till dry. A good way to tell if the patches are comeing out dry, is to touch the patch to your cheek. If it's still damp, it will feel cool. The skin on your cheek is much more sensitive than your hands. Then oil her up good, Been using WD40 or it's generic equivelent for years no fuss no bother
 
I gave a cheap gun to a guy starting out with ML. Cheap but it was still basically new. He gave it back to me when he found one he liked and I didn't bother to check it until latter on. It was very rusty and I'm glad I didn't wait longer to check. I've never seen a gun bore that rusty before. I get it our every couple weeks and clean it again but still getting some rust but I always leave a good layer of penetrating fluid in the bore. I think I just need to take it out and shoot it a bunch to get rid of the rust.
 
Mooman76 said:
I think I just need to take it out and shoot it a bunch to get rid of the rust.

This could take a very long time..
Its probably chlorate fouling from corrosive substitute powder and NOTHING will stop it rusting. It has to be completely removed from the bore.
Remove the nipple, remove the barrel from the stock. Spray it liberally down the bore with the blue Windex, Simple Green etc, then put the breech of the barrel in a bucket of soapy water about 2-4" above the nipple seat. Brush the heck out of it with a BRASS bore brush then tight patches to push and pull water up and down the barrel. Change the water about 5 minutes in. Do this for 10 minutes or so alternating brush and patches.
The Windex and hot soapy water is to remove the oil.
Once pitted it can be VERY difficult, near impossible, to get the corrosive elements out..
Pour a quart or so of tepid water though the bore to final rinse rinse then wipe it dry. Oil with a good preservative. Repeat with an oily patch every day for a few days. If the rust found on the patches is not mostly gone by 3rd day then start over with the water treatment again.
It the bore feels rough when the a patch is run through it its probably past saving.

Dan
 

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