Sealing of the pan

[bezoar]

Has anyone tried using a thin band of silicone bathtub caulk around the lockplate/priming pan to keep residue from getting behind the lock and between the barrel and stock?

 

[robinghewitt]

If they did they'd never admit to it :crackup:

 

[flinttim]

I'd admit to it and do it on every gun.I've heard all the nonsense about how the old time gun makers inlet the lock in so well that it never needed taking out and cleaned and how the water couldn't get in there. :bull:
Mine are inlet in there as good as you can possibly get 'em and you are still going to get some water thru there and if water can get in there so can flash residue.
Don't want to ruin your "PC" correctness ? Then don't, but I put a lot of heart and soul into the gun I make and would like it to last a long time past me. Run a thin bead of RTV (silicone- some silicones are not rtv and have oxolic acid in them that can cause rust- use rtv silicone)down the bolster put the lock in and tighten the screws down. Clean up any that oozes into the pan.

 

[robinghewitt]

Obviously confession is good for the soul :thumbsup:

I have one pan sealed with plastic wood, the first likely looking tube that came to hand ::

 

[musketman]

Never used it, however, the kids did wonder where their silly-putty disappeared to...

 

[Jack Walker]

I'm having a hard time understanding why you would want/need to do this. If your lock sits snuggly in its place, your not going to get much residue behind the plate. If you do, the lock sits loosely inside the inletting and you can use brass ribbon to sure up the outline for the lock and get a tighter fit. :m2c:

 

[musketman]

I'm having a hard time understanding why you would want/need to do this.

For hunting in the rain, I just made a small gasket to seal the pan to the barrel, except for the touch hole...

I only did this on those really wet days, just as added insurance I guess...

 

[flinttim]

I guess I sometimes see the folly in how we will or will not do certain things so we can be period correct.
Let's look at that gun for example.
Barrel made on a 21st Century milling machine and then rifled on a Pratt & Whitney machine. Maybe even button rifled (modern technology). Instead of being forged, the mounts are made with the "Lost wax" method . Fairly new and definitley not old techno.Breech plug made on a Bridgeport. Stock likely made on a 5 way pantograph of some sort.Or if you do your own you probably used a table saw and / or a router and /or bandsaw.Drill press maybe used ?Lock is cast by lost wax too, not forged.
There's nuttin' on that gun that could be "PC" but not use a dab of rtv ????? Some ask why, I ask why not ?

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

I've used Crisco and lard with a cow's knee. Used a sandwich baggie once when I got caught by a rainstorm. As long as the temperature stays low, Crisco works pretty good.

 

[robinghewitt]

Well said Flinttim

Whatever floats your stick is fine, (except using silly-puddy which is just plain weird) :crackup: :crackup: :crackup:

 

[musketman]

(except using silly-puddy which is just plain weird) :crackup: :crackup: :crackup:

:redthumb:

 

[Stumpkiller]

Some ask why, I ask why not ?

We control what we can and accept what we must. The difficulties encountered are what make it "sporting." I'll give you the e-mail of a guy who will build you a rifle using only hand tools (most his own manufacture) with the barrel, lock & all hardware forged from scraps of pig iron, brass cast by him and a tree cut from his own land . . . for about $14,000 and a few years wait.

You can't avoid hearing the air traffic some days, but you don't have to look up. What touches you and your gun are the few things you can control in this pursuit.

You think Silly Putty would make a good bedding compound? I think even I could inlay using that. ::