-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Seneca light hammer fall
- Thread starter damron
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
ebiggs said:
Yup.
Old oil can turn gummy and slow things down.
Also, no need to tighten the lock side screw too much.
If it's too tight, it can pull the lock into the wood inside
Guest
Whether or not you have a lock problem, you have to get the caps to stay in place if the rifle is going to go bang. Almost sounds like someone may have filed, or polished, the nipple down, to possibly get rid of a burr,and made it undersized. I would try installing a new #11 nipple and see if that works.
Mark
Mark
solved!!
I marked a cap with a sharpie and looked at the mark after hammer strike.It was all in the center.I looked at the hammer face and noticed it was convex.I got in there with a small Dremel tool and make it flat in not slightly concave.Thanks for all your input.You guys were right it was not a light hammer fall.
George
I marked a cap with a sharpie and looked at the mark after hammer strike.It was all in the center.I looked at the hammer face and noticed it was convex.I got in there with a small Dremel tool and make it flat in not slightly concave.Thanks for all your input.You guys were right it was not a light hammer fall.
George
paulvallandigham
Passed On
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2006
- Messages
- 17,537
- Reaction score
- 89
Replace the NIPPLE! If it goes off, with two hits there is nothing wrong with the strength of the hammer fall.
What is wrong is a peened down nipple that makes it difficult to seat the percussion cap fully on the nipple. The first blow seats the nipple by reforming it; the second is firing it.
I recommend a Stainless steel nipple, as its made of tougher steel, and will last longer. Always buy at least two nipples, so you have the second on hand to replace the first should you need it right now! :thumbsup: :hatsoff:
What is wrong is a peened down nipple that makes it difficult to seat the percussion cap fully on the nipple. The first blow seats the nipple by reforming it; the second is firing it.
I recommend a Stainless steel nipple, as its made of tougher steel, and will last longer. Always buy at least two nipples, so you have the second on hand to replace the first should you need it right now! :thumbsup: :hatsoff:
it was not the nipple.it was the convex hammer.it appeared as if it was messed with from a previous owner.I had already changed nipples with no improvement.I just got back from a 40 shot offhand session and it was 100% fire rate.
George
George
paulvallandigham
Passed On
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2006
- Messages
- 17,537
- Reaction score
- 89
Make sure you are using #11 caps. #10 are for smaller nipples used n replica revolvers.
paulvallandigham
Passed On
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2006
- Messages
- 17,537
- Reaction score
- 89
"messed with " doesn't tell me anything I can work with here!
To diagnose hammer/nipple contact problems, first make sure the gun is unloaded.
1. Now, using lipstick or some marking dye to coat the top edge of the nipple.
2. lower the hammer down so that the face of the hammer makes contact with the nipple.
3. Do this with a new nipple the correct size for the gun. Don't just buy something that says "T/C".
5. cock the hammer back to full cock, and stand the lock up under good light so that you can see the face of the hammer.
6. You should see part or all of a circle of the marking dye on the face. If you see only part of a circle, use a dremel tool grinding bit to remove the High Spot, ie., where the dye is left.
Repeat this process of transferring dye from the nipple to the face of the hammer, until you have created a full-width circle of dye transferred to the hammer face. Once done, you can remove the dye using alcohol on Q-tip.
This technique will make sure that the entire hammer face is striking the nipple, SQUARELY, and insure ignition. :thumbsup:
To diagnose hammer/nipple contact problems, first make sure the gun is unloaded.
1. Now, using lipstick or some marking dye to coat the top edge of the nipple.
2. lower the hammer down so that the face of the hammer makes contact with the nipple.
3. Do this with a new nipple the correct size for the gun. Don't just buy something that says "T/C".
5. cock the hammer back to full cock, and stand the lock up under good light so that you can see the face of the hammer.
6. You should see part or all of a circle of the marking dye on the face. If you see only part of a circle, use a dremel tool grinding bit to remove the High Spot, ie., where the dye is left.
Repeat this process of transferring dye from the nipple to the face of the hammer, until you have created a full-width circle of dye transferred to the hammer face. Once done, you can remove the dye using alcohol on Q-tip.
This technique will make sure that the entire hammer face is striking the nipple, SQUARELY, and insure ignition. :thumbsup:
ohio ramrod
75 Cal.
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2008
- Messages
- 7,473
- Reaction score
- 2,208
The first thing I check on a percusion not functioning properly is the nipple edge. It should not have any flat spots. It should have a knife like sharp edge. The nipples can easily be "sharpened" by placing in a drill chuck and then spun against an india stone. A flattened nipple will give exactly the problem you are describing. Hammer faces can easily be flatened and alighned with the nipple by cutting a heavy piece of shim stock to fit in the hammer face and placing a very small amount of jb weld between the shim and the hammer face and slowly lowering the hammer onto the nipple. :idunno:
Well Done Sir, :thumbsup:damron said:
Well Done Sir, :thumbsup:damron said:
