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Sharpening Chisles and Gouges

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Joined
Aug 7, 2007
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Bloomington Il
I have a Norton Course, Medium, and Fine India stone. Do I need a hard or soft Arkansas stone too or is the fine india fine enough?

I also have a stromp. I have Swiss Made tools.

More than likely I just need more time sharpening as I am very new to these tools. I am really looking to stay traditional and doing it free hand on an oil stone.
Thanks
 
It's just my own opinion but my advice is to keep your stones away from your chisels and gouges.

Unless they were damaged by dropping them they shouldn't need any real grinding done to them.

The strop on the other hand is an excellent device either by itself or with a very fine abrasive.
Use it to hone and polish the cutting edge to a razor blade sharpness. :)
 
Contact Roger Needham, Renegade Company, Arkansas Whetstone Sharpening System, 255 Needham Rd.
How Springs, ARK 71901 Phone: 501-623-0988

Roger sets up inside the main gate at Friendship each year for the Spring and Fall national shoots. He sells some of the finest honing stones available. He also give out directions on how to sharpen knives on stones. You will have to tell him what you are looking for and the length and width of the stone you want. I buy the longest stones he has, because I find they work the easiest to put even bevels on the edges of knives. There are Jigs sold at Woodcrafters to use to hold your chisels for sharpening, and polishing, that you should have to do good work with these tools. Unless you buy the very best brands of Chisels, most of the others leave much to be desired, and will need to be sharpened, and honed( Polished) to a keen razor's edge. Factories today seem to be more concerned about being sued by a new customer who cuts himself with a sharp implement, than in selling finely honed blades. So, you see semi-sharp knife blades, and other tools that can all be made a lot better.

Do buy some leather to glue to a flat surface to use as a strop. And get polishing rouge, or other grits like pumice, and rottenstone- usually available at local paint stores-- to put the finishing edges on any chisel or knife. The Razor Edge Company in Eli, Minn. sells an excellent blade clamp to be used for sharpening knives, if you want to use hobby knives(Exacto) or similar knives in your work. I also recommend having a magnifying glass or lens handy so that you can take a very close look at the edge of your instrument before you return to making cuts.

The secret to keeping blades sharp is to NOT LET THEM GET TOO DULL before you hone them again.
 
I sharpen my chisels and plane blades with a 1/4 thick piece of glass and various grit wet/dry sandpaper taped to the top of the glass. If the blade is really bad I start with 120 grit and set the cutting angle to 25 degrees and work my way up to 2000 grit. If they are just dull I usually start with 600-800 grit and work my way up to 2000 grit. I don't have any gouges but I do have a stanely #55 moulding plane and I just rap the sandpaper around a properly sized wood dowel and sharpen the different cutters that way. I hope this helped.
 
In my opinion you can not do a very good job honing gouges on a flat stone.. You need specialty stones for them.. The best I have found to hone on is the Japanese Water stones. The white colored one and the clay colored one is all you will ever need for honing...Those two and piece of good leather on a flat board loaded with polishing compound will keep your chisels and gauges razor sharp..

Twice.
 
Yep. In a pinch you can strop on your leather wallet like I did my pocke knife on the other day... :thumbsup:
Twice.
 
I use a inexpensive Smith's brand three stone set. It has course, medium, and fine stones. I use a piece of leather to hone them to a razor edge. It don't take much effort. I think Paul advised that the best thing to do was not let them get dull in the first place and I agree. If you're not cutting with ease then touch the blades up with the medium, fine, and leather. My opinion and the way I sharpen and not based on anything else.
 
I do some woodturning, carving, knife making, blackpowder guns and other woodworking. About 10 years ago I saw a design like this at a woodcarving club in Boise, ID and decided to design/build one myself. I had it welded (I have never done much welding) together, bought a motor, belt, pillow blocks and flanges and assembled it. I have loved it and use it all the time for sharpening all my tools. I'm not saying its for everyone, but I have found it extremely handy for the things I do.

On the left is a flat sanding wheel, which I can change out for just about any wheel I want. Next is a wheel wrapped with leather that I use as a strop. Next is the pulley from the drive motor. Next is a wheel I glue any grade of sand/emery cloth I want on it for something between a grinding wheel and strop. Next is a stitched-cloth polish wheel, which I can also change out as needed for another wheel. All wheels are multi-layered, 3/4" MDF glued together and turned on my lathe. It really works well for anyone sharpening a lot of tools or flat sanding.

SharpeningStation.jpg
 
is that a standard 3450RPM motor driving that rig ?
I see the pulley set-up will slow that down some, but do you have any problems with overcooking a tool edge ?
 
That motor is a 1725 RPM unit; I purposely put one like that on, with the reduction pulley, for just the reason you mention.
 
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