Smoke Pole,
Dixie sells a "Sharps Combustible Cartridge Kit" PN KA0700 for $35.00. The papers alone are PN KA0710, $19.95. They also sell bullets.
I understand that there are two typical bullet sizes, as was mentioned earlier. The least expensive commercial suppllier is Dixie. I have a contact for a person who casts and sells both sizes.
I am sure you have already discovered that there are two distinct schools of thought on making the paper cartridges, pigtail and cylinder. The pigtail type assumes that you make it long and the breech cuts of the end as it closes. This exposes loose powder to the cap flame. The cylinder type more closely resembles a normal cartridge and the the fire must burn through the paper on the end. I personally like the cylinder type.
I was happy with the kit from Dixie for the rolling dowel alone. I find that I can cut each paper from the kit in two to give me the perfect size paper to make 2 cartidges, I put in 60 grains of powder. 60 grains of GoEx FFg created the "bleeding barrel" effect I saw described in another thread. I am debating on trying 60 grains of FFFg to see the effect. The manual for my 1863 IAB claims the max load is 80 grains FFg.
I make my cartridges by rolling the paper on the rod using the glue stick included in the kit. After they dry, I cut 1" square pieces of paper from papers used to roll womens hair when they do permanents. Perm papers. They are inexpensive and strong for the bottoms. The next step is a bit tricky. You take your forming rod and put the perm paper on the end, wrapping the ends up around it. You then carefully insert the end into your formed roll. This is a bit tricky to get started, but works exceptionally well. Once you have it inserted, you push it down to about 1/4 inch from the bottom, place a bit more of your glue around the inside edge and then push the rod to the end. Make sure you have glue around the entire bottom edge. Roll the rod on something hard to make a good seal and let it dry. Once dry, you can then finish the cartridge. I used some Cabelas lube for the bullet as it dries solid and melted it. I dipped the bullets in the melted lube, let them dry and wiped away the excess. I then added powder and the bullet. I put a small bit of glue on the top ring of the bullet to hold it in place.
Before firing, I noted that my nipple was significantly narrower than the channel in the breech block. If I recall correctly a 5/32 bit fit in nicely, so I drilled out my nipple with the 5/32 bit. I used CCI magnum musket caps and have yet to have it fail to fire. Once the nitrated papers are gone, I will try other paper to see if I like them. Since my ignition paper is not nitrated and has yet to fail to fire, the only possible benefit I see to them are less residue in the chamber.
I have used the bullets (I have heard them described as "christmas tree" shaped) from Dixie and also I have used a 425 grain .54 Plains bullet. I have yet to really test for accuracy. I bought my weapon used and has a horrific gas leak at the check plate. I can only fire about 10 rounds before it is almost impossible to open the breech. I am about to ship it to Sam Dobbins to have him do his well regarded modification for fixing this.
If you want to discuss a variety of things about the Sharps repro, feel free to send me an e-mail
[email protected].
