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Sharps Rifle - Yore Supply Tubes

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Actually discussion of the percussion Sharps model 1863’s are allowed here on the forum.
The later cartridge models are not.
I’m following this thread as I have a new to me 1863 Shiloh Sharps
Sporting rifle.

I just checked them out, kinda like a plastic quick loader for muzzleloaders. Mines a 50 cal and they don’t list one for it.

Thanks
O.R.
 
Has any of you percussion Sharps shooters tried these tubes ? Just curious...

Rick

Yore Supply - Shell & Tube Sharps Cartridge
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/forum-rules.108881/ :
I don't think that the tubes (brass or plastic/nylon/rubber) different of the era are allowed, but the paper cartridges of the Sharps rifles its ok...
It may be a bad understanding of what I read in what is concerning the breech-loaders after the basis of the main 46 rules ...
My .54 Sporting Sharps 1863 is eating paper and flax cartridges only...
About your tubes, if they are good as the brass Pedersoli, you can let them where they are... ☹️
 
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I'm getting away from the OP's question. I have not used or know anything about the Yore loaders. I'm just starved for information on the basics for loading these percussion Sharps .

Thanks,
O.R.

I may be off on my interpretation also, but I'm thinking the block seals the breech not the paper cartridge of original design.

<clip>

POSTS FOR BREECH LOADING GUNS:

Ӣ The firearm must have been made prior to 1865. Replicas of these guns are also acceptable.

Ӣ The firearm must utilize an ignition system which is separate from any form or type of cartridge that may have been used to seal the breech or load the powder or the projectile.
 
If I remember correctly, the rifle was not designed to have an airtight breech. You could/can (though I've never done it) load the gun by putting a conical in the chamber followed with loose powder in lieu of having a cartridge.
If there is space between powder and bullet the gun vents the gas so there isn't the problem you would have in a ML with an air space between bullet and charge.

Here's a cartridge in the chamber.
IMG_5847.JPG


I've made both kinds, the thin paper bottom and the one with the tail that gets cut off when you close the breech.
first paper cartridge no tail.JPG


first paper cartridge with tail.JPG


Obligatory pic of my gun :)
1859 Sharps and scope.JPG


3@50
3@50.JPG
 
That's a nice shot and a nice rifle. :thumb:
Concerning mine, I took away my Malcolm for a tang sight (Godwin replica): the escaping gas of the breech was beginning to burn the bluing and the rust could come under the sight. The second advantage is that with a Godwin in place of another vernier tang is that I can use the cleaning stick during the shooting session to evacuate an eventual piece of paper or flax, that forgot to burn.

15@50m (55 yards) on a 10m air pistol target with my Godwin style:

15_à50m.jpg
 
That's a nice shot and a nice rifle. :thumb:
Concerning mine, I took away my Malcolm for a tang sight (Godwin replica): the escaping gas of the breech was beginning to burn the bluing and the rust could come under the sight. The second advantage is that with a Godwin in place of another vernier tang is that I can use the cleaning stick during the shooting session to evacuate an eventual piece of paper or flax, that forgot to burn.

15@50m (55 yards) on a 10m air pistol target with my Godwin style:

View attachment 231815


That's some very fine shooting yourself :thumb:

The scope did "patina" up pretty quick, lol.

Right now I'm removing unburnt paper from the breech by hand It sits right there.. And after a couple more shots it does start to gunk up and get harder to push the cartridge in as far, losing some charge when you close the breech.
But when I got this gun I did not know about swabbing between shots. I was just thinking when I posted, that I ought to hunt up a bore snake that might work to pull things through.

Here's 7@50 and that's the best I could do at the time without swabbing. This was after I modified the screw for better ignition.
7@50 mod screw.JPG


Had I shot eight more shots it might have looked like yours ;) LOL

I've been meaning to break this gun out again. Maybe try some of that Swiss I just got.
 
Maybe try some of that Swiss I just got.
In Absurdistan, the only powders that we can get are all the French PNF and the Swiss black powders...
The two BP best (for me and the Sharps) are the French PNF1 and the Swiss N°3.
I did it a relatively long time ago, and it was with Swiss BP N°3. Now I prefer the French PNF1, it burns longer in the barrel and the residues stay softer than the Swiss N°3, this way the accuracy seems better for me...
Sorry for all the faults I did: over 50 years without writing or speaking English/American, but now with the help of this forum it's a bit better. I did it a relatively long time ago with flax and Swiss N°3 (the shooting was open sight):



The Swiss is a good powder, maybe the best... ;)
 
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Actually discussion of the percussion Sharps model 1863’s are allowed here on the forum.
I do know that … sorry, it was but a poor attempt at humor on my part. For if you read any of Rick’s post, he usually posts on matchlocks from some oddball country that doesn’t exist anymore, like Persia or the Ottoman Empire. In fact I’m not even sure if he owns a flintlock, though I know he has a few miquelet locked arms … he just likes the early BP arms.

So I was kind of surprised when he had a percussion firearm, LOL!
 
If I remember correctly, the rifle was not designed to have an airtight breech. You could/can (though I've never done it) load the gun by putting a conical in the chamber followed with loose powder in lieu of having a cartridge.
If there is space between powder and bullet the gun vents the gas so there isn't the problem you would have in a ML with an air space between bullet and charge.

Here's a cartridge in the chamber.
View attachment 231810

I've made both kinds, the thin paper bottom and the one with the tail that gets cut off when you close the breech.
View attachment 231811

View attachment 231812

Obligatory pic of my gun :)
View attachment 231813

3@50
View attachment 231814
Lovely rifle and great shooting. Your explanation of the breech block clears up why I have been told to wear really good eye protection and an old shirt that I don’t like when I shoot it.

Thanks
O.R.
 
I do know that … sorry, it was but a poor attempt at humor on my part. For if you read any of Rick’s post, he usually posts on matchlocks from some oddball country that doesn’t exist anymore, like Persia or the Ottoman Empire. In fact I’m not even sure if he owns a flintlock, though I know he has a few miquelet locked arms … he just likes the early BP arms.

So I was kind of surprised when he had a percussion firearm, LOL!
Hi Flint

LOL!!! NO RESPECT LOL !!! Actually, besides a Sharps Infantry Rifle, I also own a Euroarms 1858 2-Band, and 3 C&B revolvers. LOL
And a bunch of flintlocks.

I just received these Yore tubes. I bought them to see how well (or not) they worked. I have zero experience with these Sharps breech loaders. I did have the full Hahn treatment done along with a taller, yet still authentic looking front sight installed. But again, I've never fired it. The reason for ordering these tubes is that I was theorizing that starting out with loose powder and bullet would be easier in developing the desired load before making combustible cartridges.

So I was just wondering if any other Members have used these tubes ?

Rick
 
Is Charlie hahn still around? i should order more of his tubes. Curious as to why you did the Hahn treatment and not use his tubes? or do you?
Just curious.
 
Is Charlie hahn still around? i should order more of his tubes. Curious as to why you did the Hahn treatment and not use his tubes? or do you?
Just curious.
My primary reason for the Hahn job was to better seal the breach. I have the tubes if I decide to use them.

Rick
 
My primary reason for the Hahn job was to better seal the breach. I have the tubes if I decide to use them.

Rick
Is the Hahn conversion worth the cost? I’ve spoken with Mr.Hahn and the pricing seems reasonable. I’m asking from zero experience of shooting my Shiloh 1863 so far. I’ve been told they are extremely dirty to shoot and troublesome without the conversion.

Thanks,
O.R.
 
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