Shot size, and type.

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I am sure he means chrome lining Brit like with the Pedersoli SXS shot guns?
As to steel shot it will not wear a barrel out but it will score one pretty bad if using steel shot without steel shot type protective shot cups. Even then you will get pin holing sometimes. Steel shot really does not belong in muzzleloaders due to the low density and high vellocity required to kill effectively with it. Can it be done, yes but the results are marginal at best due to most muzzle loading shotguns lower vellocity, i.e. under 1200 FPS.
It is I'm afraid chrome plating, not lining and I'm afraid it is NOT for protection from steel shot.

I have used a limited amount of steel in a muzzleloader using a card wrap. A real pain in the back end to load but I did get a duck.

One day I want to test it more with higher powder charges. The reasoning being it behaves different to lead through chokes, generally wants to spread less so I wonder if through a cylinder bore it will not get a blown pattern to at least with a high pellet count be of some use over average muzzleloader shotgun distances.
 
I use #6 lead, usually 1-1 1/8 Oz. in my 62 cal Fowler using the same measure to give me about 70gr of FFG. For rabbits, squirrels, game birds, and head shots on turkeys it gives me a nice balance of pattern density and pellet energy. Most all my shots are under 25 yards.
 
As to steel shot, I hate it. Yet we shoot skeet over water each weekend and we use #7s in steel and we all learned years ago you want a more open choke with steel vs lead. Most of us use cylinder bore chokes for skeet with the steel and they do 1350fps. I would never shoot steel in a muzzle loader even with a shot cup. Since I hunted ducks before steel was mandatory, then is was always #5s.
 
I would never want to limit myself to just one shot size. That kind of defeats the multi-purpose ability of a shotgun.

For the bulk of my hunting small game like rabbits, squirrel, pheasant, and anything like that, a #5 lead is my choice. For very small birds like dove and woodcock, it's a #8 lead. For turkey, it is usually a #6 lead. For ducks, I like #4 bismuth. I'm not real excited about a bismuth size in muzzleloaders for geese yet, I need to do more testing. #4 bismuth is not adequate for honkers, although I've killed a handful with it with head shots. For slightly bigger stuff like raccoon, fox, and woodchuck, I'd choose BB lead. I've not shot a coyote with mine yet, but F shot lead is my go to for cartridge guns.
 
I have always used salt water when cleaning small game, and generally let it soak overnight unless it get eaten right away. If not, it get frozen until used at later date.
Not real sure about lined barrel, but believe barrel is lined with harder metal to prevent shot such as steel from damaging barrel wall.
Most muzzleloading firearms are NOT lined, as far as I know.
Most replica shotguns ( not smoothbore muskets ) are chromed for corrosion resistance caused by poor cleaning and neglect.
 
Worst thing about steel and bismuth is cracked teeth ( yours, not critters). Lead projectile bans weren't to protect humans, it's about birds getting it in their craws. Waterfowl picking it up with gravel/dirt and meat-eaters from ..;well...eating dead stuff with lead shot or bullets in them. Lightweight steel shot's probably the worst crippler
I've ever seen in 65 years of hunting. Hevi-shot the best "dead right there" stuff for me.

Prefer lead 6's when a mixed bag is likely. Smaller shot for doves.
 
I have shot at least 50 rounds of steel #2 shot through my smoothbore 20 gauge. I can't see or feel anything in the bore. 1.5 oz of steel shot does take up more room in the bore and patterns tighter than lead. I figure you get light modified or at least IC patterns through a cylinder bore gun. That said I mostly use bismuth now. I have found less crippled birds with it and more with steel. Same as I see with those new fangled breech loading shotguns;)

I also shot daisy BB's through an old Brazilian 58ish smoothie I had many years ago. I probably went through 5-10lbs hunting squirrels. I never saw any abnormalities in the barrel.

Brit. If I was hunting geese with you I'd be loading bismuth.
 
I have shot at least 50 rounds of steel #2 shot through my smoothbore 20 gauge. I can't see or feel anything in the bore. 1.5 oz of steel shot does take up more room in the bore and patterns tighter than lead. I figure you get light modified or at least IC patterns through a cylinder bore gun. That said I mostly use bismuth now. I have found less crippled birds with it and more with steel. Same as I see with those new fangled breech loading shotguns;)

I also shot daisy BB's through an old Brazilian 58ish smoothie I had many years ago. I probably went through 5-10lbs hunting squirrels. I never saw any abnormalities in the barrel.

Brit. If I was hunting geese with you I'd be loading bismuth.
Thank you.
Youe experience supports my theory.
My theory is that lower pressure than nitro plus no forcing cone plus no choke equals no damage.

I guess though, one would benefit having a good dog!
 
For my 10 gauge Pedersoli DBL I use a duplex load, equal amounts of #4's and #6's. For my .56 TC smoothbore I use 7-1/2's. Both guns only get lead.
 
Bare steel shot, and you are shooting 1 1/2 ounces in a 20 gauge? You are one daring individual.

I worked up from 1 ounce slowly, looking for pattern density at 30 yards. Also checking the note. I actually used larger loads, but the best was 1.5 oz. Also #2 is the largest that patterns well from my 20. Tried #1 steel but lots of fliers.
 
Thank you.
Youe experience supports my theory.
My theory is that lower pressure than nitro plus no forcing cone plus no choke equals no damage.

I guess though, one would benefit having a good dog!

I wouldn't be so sure. Even with blackpowder, a 1 1/2 oz load in a 20 gauge has to have sky high pressures, I'm sure north of 10,000 psi.

It is insane that people lambasted me for wanting to shoot 1 5/8 oz and 1 3/4 oz loads in my 10 gauge, which probably only run 4,000-5,000 psi. Muzzleloaders and blackpowder are very forgiving thankfully, but 1 1/2 oz of steel shot in a 20 gauge is idiotic. If I ever found out I was hunting next to a guy loaded like that, I'd kick you out of the boat, and leave you there to walk back.
 
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I wouldn't be so sure. Even with blackpowder, a 1 1/2 oz load in a 20 gauge has to have sky high pressures, I'm sure north of 10,000 psi.

It is insane that people lambasted me for wanting to shoot 1 5/8 oz and 1 3/4 oz loads in my 10 gauge, which probably only run 4,000-5,000 psi. Muzzleloaders and blackpowder are very forgiving thankfully, but 1 1/2 oz of steel shot in a 20 gauge is idiotic. If I ever found out I was hunting next to a guy loaded like that, I'd kick you out of the boat, and leave you there to walk back.
I never lambasted you about your 10g. I will gladly drop 2oz on mine.
I also have no issue with 1&1/2 oz of anything in a 20g muzzleloader of good build.
 
Ok, I didn't ask anyone to hunt with me or get in my boat. I'm not looking for a fight. I am not recommending any loads to anyone. Load your 10 gauge however it works for you. I know I have read several recommended turkey loads for 20 gauge up to and over 2 ounces of lead. Steel or lead doesn't change pressures. An ounce of lead, steel or feathers all weighs an ounce and create the same pressures with the same charge.
Check out Spence's turkey loads here Smoothbore Loads
 
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Yes, steel absolutely creates higher pressures. And on top of that, 1 1/2 oz of lead shot was a definitive proof load in the 1800's for a smooth bore 20. You are shooting over proof loads every single shot. It's no wonder everything has warning labels on it nowadays.
 
According to Greener, 7/8 ounces of #6 shot with 205 grains of TP powder was the old definitive proof load.
 
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