Should I bore one?

[Sparkplug]

I really want a smooth bore for firing shot at small game. It's just not in the cards for me to buy one, but I have 2 CVA 50 cals. Both were cheap (less than $100 2 years ago) and are by no means historical replicas. One is a Bobcat and the other is a Tracker. The bobcat has a longer barrel with buckhorn and brass sights, and the other is a short little carbine with an adjustablerear sight. Both are capable of deer at 75-100 yds with conical. I know they made small bore and smooth bore for them, but they are impossible to find. So, I'm thinking of boring one to a .54 smooth so it can shoot shot or PRB. It would also give me a 3rd caliber option for my small collection of rifles. I'd like opinions from the experienced...

1. Should I bore one?
2. If so, which one? If not, why?
3. If so, then what diameter?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Johnny Too-Tall]

Id contact Mr Hoyt and ask him if he can do it. You will have more in the rebore with shipping both ways then you paid for the rifles. But if u want one why not. I'd pick the most accurate rifle and leave it alone and rebore the other.

 

[user 34300]

The breech plug threads will determine if it is safe. Being CVA removing the drum and getting it back is necessary and not a simple thing. That is the biggest hurdle. This is not a job for a casual hobbyist It requires special tooling and knowledge to do properly.

The best option is to ask Bobby Hoyt. If it can be done, he can do it.

 

[Sparkplug]

The breech plug threads will determine if it is safe. Being CVA removing the drum and getting it back is necessary and not a simple thing. That is the biggest hurdle. This is not a job for a casual hobbyist It requires special tooling and knowledge to do properly.

The best option is to ask Bobby Hoyt. If it can be done, he can do it.

I will have a local smith or someone with experience do it for me. Although I have the skill and tools, I don't have the experience.

They both have the patent breach, but the bore only has to go to the breach face. So I'm hoping it can be done without removing it.

 

[Codger Craig Wilcox]

1. Why not?
2. The longer one will concentrate your shot column a bit better.
3. You already selected .54

 

[R Ellis]

I have a cva wolf magnum that had a rusty bore I used a hand reamer and reamed it out from a 50 cal to a 52 and it was not hard to do so I say go for it and as already said keep the most accurate one as a rifle and bore the other or keep the one you like the best as a rifle

 

[Bad Karma]

I’d use the longer barrel. Better velocity and sight radius…

 

[SDSmlf]

I really want a smooth bore for firing shot at small game. It's just not in the cards for me to buy one, but I have 2 CVA 50 cals. Both were cheap (less than $100 2 years ago) and are by no means historical replicas. One is a Bobcat and the other is a Tracker. The bobcat has a longer barrel with buckhorn and brass sights, and the other is a short little carbine with an adjustablerear sight. Both are capable of deer at 75-100 yds with conical. I know they made small bore and smooth bore for them, but they are impossible to find. So, I'm thinking of boring one to a .54 smooth so it can shoot shot or PRB. It would also give me a 3rd caliber option for my small collection of rifles. I'd like opinions from the experienced...

1. Should I bore one?
2. If so, which one? If not, why?
3. If so, then what diameter?

Thanks in advance!

Personally would leave the most accurate or one you prefer for roundball shooting as is. I would likely go with 56 caliber for the smoothbore, as it will work better with 28 gauge components if you ever want to go that route, and will also work with any roundball suitable for 54 caliber with appropriate patching.

Actually have a TC factory 56 caliber smoothbore barrel that I recently picked up that seems to shoot ok that I intend to test a bit more before deciding what its fate is. Might be ok with shot for stationary targets, but don’t understand any attraction for using it for wing shooting, but that doesn’t seem to be your intent.

 

[Nor Cal Mikie]

Got a CVA (maybe 50 cal) barrel that was fired, not cleaned and set aside. Bore looks like 40 miles of bad mountain road. What lands?? Exterior is 80%+ with adjustable sights.
My plan is to get after it with crocus cloth a long rod and lots of oil.
Can't be any worse than it is now. New breach plug in hand.
The spirit just hasn't moved me yet.

 

[Jedidiah]

Bobby Hoyt will tell you what he can do without any hesitation. I would suggest going to 58cal smooth if the barrel is big enough, Usually need 15/16th. That will give you a better shot pattern, size etc and still allow the use of PRB. IMHO

 

[Rat]

Bobby Hoyt will tell you what he can do without any hesitation. I would suggest going to 58cal smooth if the barrel is big enough, Usually need 15/16th. That will give you a better shot pattern, size etc and still allow the use of PRB. IMHO

I agree, .58" would be the way to go, and that also gives one a powerful close up hammer of Thor with round ball. A smoothie is still good out to 50 yards, a little bit more with the right load. I recently had a very trashed out TC in .50" that I had bored out to .580". I'm very happy with it. Also have a longer/standard rifle barrel for it, so I can change back and forth if need be. So yeah, do it.

 

[Jedidiah]

I agree, .58" would be the way to go, and that also gives one a powerful close up hammer of Thor with round ball. A smoothie is still good out to 50 yards, a little bit more with the right load. I recently had a very trashed out TC in .50" that I had bored out to .580". I'm very happy with it. Also have a longer/standard rifle barrel for it, so I can change back and forth if need be. So yeah, do it.

I made mine from a Flinter GPR,. I had Bobby Hoyt cut the barrel to 26 in and bore to 58 smooth. It is so easy to carry, maneuver and use i wonder why I did not do it years ago?.

 

[Rat]

I made mine from a Flinter GPR,. I had Bobby Hoyt cut the barrel to 26 in and bore to 58 smooth. It is so easy to carry, maneuver and use i wonder why I did not do it years ago?.

Ha ha we think alike. My barrel is only 20", but I chose that length just to simplify mounting the under rib and ram rod thimbles. (was able to use some existing tapped and threaded holes) Yes mine is very light, just a tad over six pounds. I built it for trekking/hiking/exploring the wilderness up North, something with punch for them critters that would scratch or bite me, but capable of pulling the ball and reloading with shot for small game in case I got hungry during an unexpected extended stay or some kind of emergency. Lots of grouse, snowshoe rabbit and even wild turkey where I trek. Yeah, ease of carry, "handy".

 

[M. De Land]

I really want a smooth bore for firing shot at small game. It's just not in the cards for me to buy one, but I have 2 CVA 50 cals. Both were cheap (less than $100 2 years ago) and are by no means historical replicas. One is a Bobcat and the other is a Tracker. The bobcat has a longer barrel with buckhorn and brass sights, and the other is a short little carbine with an adjustablerear sight. Both are capable of deer at 75-100 yds with conical. I know they made small bore and smooth bore for them, but they are impossible to find. So, I'm thinking of boring one to a .54 smooth so it can shoot shot or PRB. It would also give me a 3rd caliber option for my small collection of rifles. I'd like opinions from the experienced...

1. Should I bore one?
2. If so, which one? If not, why?
3. If so, then what diameter?

Thanks in advance!

I think if it where mine I'd take the least accurate barrel and ream it out to .62 if there is enough barrel diameter so I could use 20 gauge shot cups. If not enough barrel diameter then 28 gauge .
I've reamed bores frequently for re-lining simply using a piloted reamer and some times with a chucking reamer with an extension welded on. Chucking reamers can be nose ground (tool post grinder ) to except a pilot which should be used except for the very end when butting up to the breech plug face.
I don't think one would need to de-breech it but would need to keep pulling and flushing (chip removal) the reamer flutes clean to prevent binding and wondering off center, say every .100 (tenth inch) of depth.
Each clean out would need chip wiped and re-lubed with plenty of cutting oil.
The final smooth ream can be made with and old fashion home made, four sided scrap reamer , wood and paper backed wedging.

 

[Jedidiah]

I think if it where mine I'd take the least accurate barrel and ream it out to .62 if there is enough barrel diameter so I could use 20 gauge shot cups. If not enough barrel diameter then 28 gauge .
I've reamed bores frequently for re-lining simply using a piloted reamer and some times with a chucking reamer with an extension welded on. Chucking reamers can be nose ground (tool post grinder ) to except a pilot which should be used except for the very end when butting up to the breech plug face.
I don't think one would need to de-breech it but would need to keep pulling and flushing the reamer flutes clean to prevent binding and wondering off center, say every .100 (tenth inch) of depth.
Each clean out would need chip wiped and re-lubed with plenty of cutting oil.
The final smooth ream can be made with and old fashion home made, four sided scrap reamer , wood and paper backed wedging.

Really? Send the barrel to Bobby Hoyt and leave it to him. You will get back a perfect cut/reamed barrel and the cost is minimal!

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

If you haven’t sent it to Bobby yet, you’re doing it wrong.

I’ll second rhe recomendation to go to .58 smooth IF it is safe to do so.

DO IT!!!

 

[The Crisco Kid]

My 58 smoothbore takes a .562 ball from a Lee mold and .011 Kona cotton patch. I don't know if other calibers would want the same .018 difference between bore and ball. I would check what size ball molds are available that would work with common patch material before deciding the caliber to have the barrel bored out to.

 

[Jedidiah]

If you haven’t sent it to Bobby yet, you’re doing it wrong.

I’ll second rhe recomendation to go to .58 smooth IF it is safe to do so.

DO IT!!!

When I sent my GPR, I asked for 60 or 62 cal for obvious reasons. Bobby told me my barrel was 15/16 and because of dove tail cuts and screws holding the ramrod rib, that he could only go to 58 cal safely!!

 

[Jedidiah]

My 58 smoothbore takes a .562 ball from a Lee mold and .011 Kona cotton patch. I don't know if other calibers would want the same .018 difference between bore and ball. I would check what size ball molds are available that would work with common patch material before deciding the caliber to have the barrel bored out to.

You can get any size mold you want if you are willing to pay for it? Otherwise you have to use the more standard sizes and adjust patches etc. IMHO, YMMV

 

[SDSmlf]

I think if it where mine I'd take the least accurate barrel and ream it out to .62 if there is enough barrel diameter so I could use 20 gauge shot cups. If not enough barrel diameter then 28 gauge .
I've reamed bores frequently for re-lining simply using a piloted reamer and some times with a chucking reamer with an extension welded on. Chucking reamers can be nose ground (tool post grinder ) to except a pilot which should be used except for the very end when butting up to the breech plug face.
I don't think one would need to de-breech it but would need to keep pulling and flushing the reamer flutes clean to prevent binding and wondering off center, say every .100 (tenth inch) of depth.
Each clean out would need chip wiped and re-lubed with plenty of cutting oil.
The final smooth ream can be made with and old fashion home made, four sided scrap reamer , wood and paper backed wedging.

Agree with a lot of the above, except I always pull the breech plug and run the reamer through from the breech end only (I don’t pull it back through). I use an expanding reamer held in a piece of square tubing (with bore guides) for an extension. The reamer follows the original bore.