I have a antique muzzleloader I will be shooting soon had to replaced the lock and hammer they were bad the drum and nipple look fine but I need to know if the drum will need to be replaced being its antique will it be safe to shot with the old drum and what kind of powder is best to use. Thanks Tim
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should I replace antique drum
- Thread starter buddy3658
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Billnpatti
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This is the kind of question that needs to be answered by a gunsmith. Black powder is always the best thing to use in a muzzleloader.
Yeah, we can't tell ya "sight unseen" if the gun is safe to shoot, sorry it's an internet thing,,
You really need to find someone local to give it a good look over.
Who changed the lock parts?
As far as "best Powder" that's a topic here that will never end.
Goex is the predominate powder available anywhere true black powder is available and serves folks quite well.
If you can't find true black and have to use a replicant I'd say Pyrodex RS or P will be a good choice at least until your sure of the rifles reliability as some of the other replicants can be pretty hot as they're designed for the modern rifles.
You really need to find someone local to give it a good look over.
Who changed the lock parts?
As far as "best Powder" that's a topic here that will never end.
Goex is the predominate powder available anywhere true black powder is available and serves folks quite well.
If you can't find true black and have to use a replicant I'd say Pyrodex RS or P will be a good choice at least until your sure of the rifles reliability as some of the other replicants can be pretty hot as they're designed for the modern rifles.
If this is the gun that you posted pictures of on the Gun builders Bench, I would say the drum & threads may be suspect of a lot of corrosion. Have you tried to remove it?
If a gunsmith determines it to be safe, just be sure not to use any "hot rod" loads in it. Not knowing the caliber I would suggest FFG to start with.
If a gunsmith determines it to be safe, just be sure not to use any "hot rod" loads in it. Not knowing the caliber I would suggest FFG to start with.
Any real blackpowder you can find that is made for shooting will work well.
Blackpowder made for blasting is too course to work well in a firearm.
Brands? Goex, Swiss, KIK, Diamondback, Olde Eynsford, Schuetzen and even Elephant or Reenactor will all work better than the modern black powder substitutes.
Stores that have real black powder cannot have them sitting out on a shelf like the other gunpowders. They must be locked up in a powder vault so you will have to ask for them.
The synthetic black powders will work in a percussion gun and it is designed to be measured just like real black powder. By using a powder measure, not by actually weighing it on a scale.
As for the drum, before shooting your antique the threads need to be examined to make sure they are not rusted away.
If they are, new threads must be machined and a new drum installed.
If the old threads are in good shape your in business but the likelihood of finding a new drum with the same threads is rather unlikely.
Threads weren't really standardized until the late 19th and early 20th century.
Blackpowder made for blasting is too course to work well in a firearm.
Brands? Goex, Swiss, KIK, Diamondback, Olde Eynsford, Schuetzen and even Elephant or Reenactor will all work better than the modern black powder substitutes.
Stores that have real black powder cannot have them sitting out on a shelf like the other gunpowders. They must be locked up in a powder vault so you will have to ask for them.
The synthetic black powders will work in a percussion gun and it is designed to be measured just like real black powder. By using a powder measure, not by actually weighing it on a scale.
As for the drum, before shooting your antique the threads need to be examined to make sure they are not rusted away.
If they are, new threads must be machined and a new drum installed.
If the old threads are in good shape your in business but the likelihood of finding a new drum with the same threads is rather unlikely.
Threads weren't really standardized until the late 19th and early 20th century.
Billnpatti
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The BEST black powder? Boy, there is a question that will stir up a bunch of discussion. But, I think the best powder is getting to be whatever brand you can get. It does no good to tell you that brand X is the best powder in the world if you can't buy brand X in any store. I think that you are more likely to find Goex in stores. it is an American made powder. In fact, it is the only American made black powder. It is also the least expensive of the available black powders. Goex makes and sells another black powder under another name but it is still Goex. If you mail order, you will have to pay an hefty hazmat fee in addition to the price for the powder. The foreign made black powders such as Swiss are going to be considerably more expensive no matter where you get it. So, I'd say that 3f Goex is going to be the best black powder. It's what I shoot in all of my guns from .36 to .54 and I have no complaints about it at all.
If you can't find black powder locally and find yourself having to use a substitute (works only in caplocks), there are a number of choices available to you. I have tried Triple 7 and Pyrodex. Both work in a caplock but are nearly worthless in a flintlock. They are pretty darned expensive. Some folks say that they are more corrosive than black powder. I can't say since I haven't used any substitute powder in many years. But, if you have a caplock and the substitute powder is all you can find, it is better than leaving your muzzleloader sitting in the back of the closet. The best thing is to join a muzzleloading club. Not only do you have someone to shoot with but most clubs take orders for powder periodically and order in large 25 to 50 pound quantities and the hazmat fee is spread over the whole shipment making the cost per pound much more affordable.
Oh, and if you don't have as copy of this http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/ order it, read it carefully and follow it exactly for amazing accuracy from your new rifle and any other muzzleloading rifles that you may own. Only 20 bucks for a lifetime of muzzleloading accuracy? You can't beat that with a stick.
If you can't find black powder locally and find yourself having to use a substitute (works only in caplocks), there are a number of choices available to you. I have tried Triple 7 and Pyrodex. Both work in a caplock but are nearly worthless in a flintlock. They are pretty darned expensive. Some folks say that they are more corrosive than black powder. I can't say since I haven't used any substitute powder in many years. But, if you have a caplock and the substitute powder is all you can find, it is better than leaving your muzzleloader sitting in the back of the closet. The best thing is to join a muzzleloading club. Not only do you have someone to shoot with but most clubs take orders for powder periodically and order in large 25 to 50 pound quantities and the hazmat fee is spread over the whole shipment making the cost per pound much more affordable.
Oh, and if you don't have as copy of this http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/ order it, read it carefully and follow it exactly for amazing accuracy from your new rifle and any other muzzleloading rifles that you may own. Only 20 bucks for a lifetime of muzzleloading accuracy? You can't beat that with a stick.
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Already answered. But for safety emphasis, I'll ditto what others have said.
Get that drum and threads inspected by someone with proper knowledge.
As for the 'best' question. Always hard to answer those 'best' questions. Go with real bp if you can and decide for yourself.
Get that drum and threads inspected by someone with proper knowledge.
As for the 'best' question. Always hard to answer those 'best' questions. Go with real bp if you can and decide for yourself.
Good. Keep us informed.
buddy3658 said:
No antique is safe to shoot.
We have no idea what the barrel quality really is and changing locks and other parts is unacceptable unless done by a competent restorer to replace prior ill advises replacements.
Are you competent to change a drum? The threads are sure going to be different. Old drums were made of malleable material with would withstand shocks. Modern drums are cold rolled steel and unless properly, very carefully, installed tend to break off due to the stress of the hammer striking the cap.
Is the bore REALLY shootable or does it have hidden "crawdad holes" from old corrosion. Is the material riddled with flaws and inclusions? These can and often do seriously degrade the material over time and can give "crawdad holes" a place to really dig in.
BTW I have been doing work on reproduction and original 18th and 19th c firearms since the 1960s.
Dan
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