Side Plate to Siler Lock Bolt Placement

BD6 you are going to talk him completely through this gun just to see if you can do it, arn't you!

This is cool, some one should be taking notes!

Musket man, Claude, this should be transferred straight to the links for builders!!!

I don't think we have done the whole thing in one continuious thread before! You're already completely through the barrel tang, lock and sideplate inlet. Didn't even bust through the ramrod channel!

 

[Birddog6]

Well, now that is not my intentions & I hope nobody takes it the wrong way....

I just like to see a guy do his utmost potential & not make an innocent error, just because he possibly didn't understand something. I know I have read allot of instruction on things in the past, put the instructions down & think to myself "What the H did that just say"????? Read it over & over & it just don't hit hme.... Now I will be the first to tell ya I am not the sharpest flint in the bag, and sometimes it takes dif view of learning way to get it to sink in. Pick up another book of the same thing, then it hits me & I think "Oh, why didn't they say that in the first place".... DUH>>>>
Thus with lots of guys on here contributing I feel he will get good info & correct info & end up with a nice piece.

Also, by doing this I hear other ways of doing things, different approaches, etc. Just because I do it a certian way doesn't mean it is correct, it means that is how I do it. I learn dif. things on these boards all the time... Now if I could just remember them...... ha ha ! ::

 

[rootnuke]

I just finished (or finished enough for now) the side plate inlet into the stock. The sideplate has been mounted with rear and forward bolt. The rear bolt has been trimmed for the pan bolster. The front side plate bolt has not been cut flush to lock plate.

Darn near to close for comfort....1/32" of wood sets between the barrel and the forward bolt. :thumbsup:

thanks everyone :master:

 

[LSU TIGER]

Great job, and congrats for following "The 7 P's."* Now that that's done, when you're through installing and removing the lock bolts during the building process, clean up the slots with a needle file with a knife shaped profile, then file the heads to a dome shape. The easiest way to do that is to chuck the screw into a drill (good) or drill press (best) and use a file and emery paper to shape and polish it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twocents.gif





* Prudent Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance

 

[54JNoll]

Looks great. Good job centering the side plate too.

You are really making progress on this gun too.

 

ya i was going to say the same about the side plate as well. very nice work

 

[rootnuke]

:hmm: Originally I stated that I was only going to drill/tap the pan bolster for the rear bolt and stop short of the lock plate. However after further consideration I have decided to drill/tap the rear bolt all the way through the lock plate.

Why you may ask? In short, better thread "bite"

The number of threads were sufficient in the pan bolster only, but it just seemed more substantial and sturdy when all the way through.

I filed and polished the end of the bolt with 400 sand paper and it looks just like store bought.

 

[Birddog6]

Root: I always thread the rear lock bolt thru all the way. If it were a wall hanger it would be one thing, but I take my lock off EVERY time I clean the rifle & I want them to last forever. So this way I don't have to worry about the wearing out & I have good solid threads to snug up.

Custom Muzzleloaders & Custom Skinning Knives

 

That

 

[rootnuke]

That

 

[Birddog6]

Captchee: You are 100% correct, the bolster threads alone is enough. And you should never have to torque the bolts to make the pan fir correctly. It either fits easily or it don't fit.....

However, I have this tendacy to over build things. I built a dog box 18 years ago for a dog we have. We still have the box. It weighs 110#... It was like a castle to the Chihuahua..... ha ha ha ! :haha: :haha:

Really it was for a Siberian Husky, but we still have the box & it still looks like new... still can't move the dang thing either ! ha ha !

 

[rootnuke]

I also over build. As far as I can tell there is no cure.
If the plans call for 24" stud placement I do 18".
12guage wiring, not good enough, I want 10 guage wiring
Bug killing, bug spray isn't good enough, you have to spray the bug to the point that you are also poisoning it and drowning it both.

yep, It's a gift. ::

 

[LSU TIGER]

I over do it the same way. BTW, napalm works great for bugs... :crackup:

 

[Herb]

Rootnuke- you done good! But be careful with 1/16" drills. They bend very easily and skid crooked. I do not use them, even for rod pipes. Not stiff enough for me. Also, I use an 8 x 32 for the rear lock bolt most of the time. That rifle an Issac Haines from Track? Has a Colerain swamped barrel? I built one also. Is your flash hole just missing the front of the breech plug? You will probably install a flash hole liner, is that going to hit your breech plug? My flash hole (in a liner) is .650" ahead of the back end of the barrel, my liner is just in front of the breech plug. Never did pull that plug, but I built another rifle using a Colerain swamped barrel, pulled the plug and found it had an .020 gap from being bottomed. Cut off the back of the barrel(hacksaw and file work) to get the plug to bottom. Thus the bottom barrel flat became the right side flat. Then shot 10" left at 50 yards. Next time, I'll pull the plug to see if it's down. And if not, then either send it back or fill that gap with a filed down dime. I enjoy seeing all the details of how other builders do this work. Very good comments and detail.