Sidelock cleaning, did I do it right?

[newarcher]

I shot the TC High Plains Sporter I was given a couple weeks back. All that I can say is that I thought that Black Rifle Disease was bad. What a blast, literally.

I used 80 grains of Triple7 with a patch pre-soaked in boar butter and a lead ball (.490). It was apparently already sighted in at 100 yards because it was a titch high at 25.

I came home and I cleaned it using some hot water and dish soap using a large plastic jug. I used a thick patch to pull the water in and out of the barrel until the water remained mostly clear. I then drained the water while I cleaned up the metal on the stock. I then ran a patch down the barrel twice to completely dry the barrel out. Lastly, I ran a patch lightly coated with Weather Guard (I use it on AR15's, it is CLP I think) as a protectant.

I put a qtip with some of the Weather guard in the nipple hole and the used the other side of the qtip to get any excess out.

Did I do everything right? I was concerned to get all the water out of the barrel.

Also, how many shots can I do at the range before I start affecting accuracy?

I saw a cleaning solution that mixed rubbing alcohol, murphy oil soap, and hydrogen peroxide in equal parts. The author claims it will not hurt the stock or metal and even protects the metal somewhat. Thoughts?

I love the thunderstick and it sure got a lot of attention when I touched it off. I can't wait to go back. It was very very accurate and put a BIG hole in the paper.

New

 

[fredrader]

Sounds like you did good..I have a High Plains Sporter myself..I do the soapy water cleaning like you did and I dry all I can with a few dry patches..I then pour some rubbing alcohol down the brl and dump it out ..I then use an air hose and blow dry.The alcohol gets rid of all the water (in my opinion).Then I lube it inside and out and put it away with the muzzle pointing down so all the excess CLP runs out the muzzle and not back into the breech..
:thumbsup:

 

[newarcher]

Thank you....I am thinking that the method I posted including the murphy soap, alcohol and hydrogen peroxide would be great because there is no water to rust anything.

I think I will try this method sometime.

I realized while cleaning the gun that the rear sight must have been loose (it is the peep type) as it was moving. So the sighting in I did was for naught. Gotta redo it.

New

 

New,
The only problem with the "Murphys Oil Soap, Alcohol & Hydrogen Peroxide" solution is that after you get enough of it on the stock, you may find it starting to bleach out the finish. Depending on what finish you have put on the wood.
MArk

 

[luieb45]

Thank you....I am thinking that the method I posted including the murphy soap, alcohol and hydrogen peroxide would be great because there is no water to rust anything.

I think I will try this method sometime.

I realized while cleaning the gun that the rear sight must have been loose (it is the peep type) as it was moving. So the sighting in I did was for naught. Gotta redo it.

New

If you're using triple 7 you can clean that gun really easily with a bottle of hoppe's no. 9 that you use to clean any other modern gun with. It's a lot easier than having to deal with all that water. You don't have to worry as much about the barrel being completely dry.

 

[redwing]

I don't like to use Peroxide for cleaning. I have had "Flash Rust" when using it. I lke the Alcohol for a bore dry. :thumbsup:

 

[fyrfyter43]

Thank you....I am thinking that the method I posted including the murphy soap, alcohol and hydrogen peroxide would be great because there is no water to rust anything.

But hydrogen peroxide is a strong oxidizer, which can cause more rust problems than water. Of course in a 3% solution it is not a big deal, but be aware that it can cause a bigger problem with rust than plain water. On the other hand, hydrogen peroxide quickly degrades to water.

Despite all the hype put forth by those selling black powder solvents, water is still the best solvent for cleaning a muzzleloader. For a rifle with a hooked breech, simply put the barrel into a bucket of lukewarm water (with or without dish soap) and pump/flush it out with a cleaning patch on a jag. Then run a couple of dry patches down, and follow up with a patch or 2 soaked with 91% isopropyl (readily available in your local drugstore for about $1). The alcohol is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb moisture. Let the barrel sit for a minute or 2 so any remaining alcohol evaporates, then run a patch down with your choice of protectant.

One thing to watch for is if your rifle has a patent breech. Make sure to dry the breech out. I use a patch wrapped around a bronze brush for a .22 rifle. I also use the alcohol and oil patches on a brush to give the breech the same treatment as the rest of the bore.

 

[410-er]

I run a hair drier in the barrel to dry it after running dry patches.

 

[CZMark]

Thank you....I am thinking that the method I posted including the murphy soap, alcohol and hydrogen peroxide would be great because there is no water to rust anything.

New

Water is what really does the cleaning with blackpowder. Rubbing alcohol is 9%-30% water and hydrogen peroxide is 97% water--don't think you are not putting water in your barrel with this mixture.

 

[newarcher]

Thanks all... I will go with the water, alcohol, and patches. I didn't think about the hydrogen peroxide turning to water.

So far so good on the cleaning technique I used last evening.

Now I gotta spend all day cleaning the AR15 and pistols. The downside to owning a lot of guns.

New

 

[paulvallandigham]

Liberally soak the barrels and chambers of those modern guns with an appropriate solvent, and then go do something else for an hour. Let the solvents do their JOB.

Most of us are in too big a hurry, when we clean a gun, so we end up using ELBOW Grease, rather than Brain Power to clean those guns.

:thumbsup: The solvents will loosen lead and copper deposits, if you give them time. Think how dish soap dissolved dried food on plates and pans when you let them soak in the sink for an hour before getting down to the business of washing them. :hmm:

Some of the substitute powders being use by shooters will also require the use of modern solvents to get badly fouled bores clean. :shocked2:

 

[Trench]

Just remember to swab the bore with alcohol before a range session to get that CLP out! That could make a mess on the range.

Shoot your rifle without swabbing to see when accuracy falls off. Temperature and humidity has a lot to do with that and your lube and the tightness of your patch.

The longer you wait to reload, the harder it will be to reload as the fouling hardens up and that will affect accuracy.

 

[ohio ramrod]

From what you posted I am sure the gun is ruined beyound hope. If you send it to me I will give it a proper burial (In my gun cabinet) :yakyak: :youcrazy: :blah:

 

[newarcher]

Thanks....I didn't think about the CLP causing problems.

When I say that I put CLP in it, I just put in a very light coating of Weather Shield...does that still apply?

If I have to remove the CLP would it be better to just do the soap and water and alcohol and then swab until dry? I store it more than shoot it so protection against humidity would probably me more important.

Thanks,
New

 

[fredrader]

You can swab with CLP or what ever you want to use when storing your rifle but before loading it give it a wipe with an alcohol patch or two to
de-grease it then a couple dry patches then you are ready to go make smoke.. :thumbsup:

 

[Oldfatguy]

I would like to add one thing to the soap & water method of cleaning BP rifles. Use HOT water - the hotter the better. If you cannot hold the barrel bare-handed then it is hot enough.

After a couple of dry pathes the heat will evaporate any remaining moisture.


OFG

 

[newarcher]

Thanks all, what a great forum.

One last question....I just used very hot water from the tap. How do you get your water so hot? Boil it?

I would be afraid to get it too hot because when running the swab in and out it did spill onto skin.

New

 

[fredrader]

Hot water from the tap is plenty hot enough..If you boil water and use it you will see the flash rust..I have tried cold,warm,hot and boiling and the only one that flash rusted was the boiling water..

 

[paulvallandigham]

Water hot enough to feel warm, but cool enough to not burn you is just right for cleaning your lock and barrel.

I don't use a cotton swab. By swab, I am describing a brush of cotton batting held together by wire that is twisted around. The Swab comes in caliber or gauge size. They get very dirty very easily, and then are useless until they are thoroughly cleaned. I use cotton flannel cleaning patches and a cleaning jag instead, Changing the patches whenever they come out full of dirt.

In my 12 gauge shotguns, I use the cotton swab to push large, 3 inch square cleaning patches through the barrels with cleaning fluids on them, to remove the crud. When I am done, the swab gets washed in soap and water, and then set aside to dry over night. I use it for this purpose, only because I don't have a good 12 ga.cleaning jag. I have shopped for them at Friendship, with micrometer in pocket, but so far have not found one the diameter I need for my MLer.