Sideplate Options?

[Erzulis boat]

My next build that I am assembling parts for will be a Transitional Longrifle very similar to what TOTW offers, and I will be using the basic shape as a guide. Is it as chunky as the image portrays?
All the potential furniture is accounted for, sans a sideplate.
What period correct options do I have?

I am not really sold on the conventional longrifle style for this build, and was wondering if a true German Jeager side plate was used.
This build is to represent an American effort using curly maple etc.
Last but not least, did the Transitional builders retain (sometimes) the folding leaf rearsight so common on the German article.
I can just see a Cape Buffalo in the "Old School" express sights! That would be something.

Thanks-

 

[Mike Brooks]

My next build that I am assembling parts for will be a Transitional Longrifle very similar to what TOTW offers, and I will be using the basic shape as a guide. Is it as chunky as the image portrays?
All the potential furniture is accounted for, sans a sideplate.
What period correct options do I have?

I am not really sold on the conventional longrifle style for this build, and was wondering if a true German Jeager side plate was used.
This build is to represent an American effort using curly maple etc.
Last but not least, did the Transitional builders retain (sometimes) the folding leaf rearsight so common on the German article.
I can just see a Cape Buffalo in the "Old School" express sights! That would be something.

Thanks-

Is this the gun you are refering too?
TRACK GUN KIT
I'm assuming you're building this from a blank.
Early guns hve no more nor no less wood than any other gun. Larger barrels dictate a larger gun. Look at pictures of originals, not contemporary guns pictured on TOTW.
I don't think I recall a folding leaf rear sight on an colonial american built gun.
I'd go with this side plate.
Sideplate This would be a good lock choice.
LOCK

 

[Erzulis boat]

Right on all accounts, Mike.

I have the Chambers Christian Springs lock on the list for sure!

The sideplate looks nice, but would have to be engraved maybe. Perhaps this is a good time to start. On an option, could a somewhat fancy style with openings be legit? Although it might be a bit out of place on such a stout rifle.

The shape will resemble TOTW's as I do not feel comfortable about executing that "bent/gullwing wrist" without actually having one in hand. I want the rifle to feel super stout, but without the unnecessary bulk of a typical Jeager. The Track shape is very pleasing to the eye, that is for sure. I am going to go for a monster bore, like .62, so I need this thing to be able to take a beating. Target weight- sub 8.5 (possible?).

When I get to the swelled forearm at the entry thimble, I am going to need to see some pics on the Forum, that is for sure.

 

[Mike Brooks]

but without the unnecessary bulk of a typical Jeager.

This is one of the great urban ledgends about jeagar rifles. They weren't bulky, chubby. clubby, or heavy. They had no more wood on them than any american long rifle. Unlike German target rifles, the german hunting rifles are short pulled , petite, large bored and light. They handle exceptionally well. Look at and handle original Jeagers, not contemporary jeagers. I know of no kits on the market that truly represent an actual jeager with correct styling.

When I get to the swelled forearm at the entry thimble, I am going to need to see some pics on the Forum, that is for sure.

The swelled fore arm is a Briish/Dutch influenced thing, not german. You're very unlikely to find this odd swelled forearm thing on an american or german built rifle. The possible exceptions are some large bored and long barreled fowling guns that had Dutch and English influens in the New england area, ie. Hudson Valley fowlers, and british influenced fowlers out of the New York City area.
Again, look at originals, not contemporary guns when you're planing your build. There's alot of contemporary stuff out there that are pure fantasy.

 

[Erzulis boat]

I have 4 pretty good images of real Jeagers (lock side only) and they appear quite stout, including a 36 incher. Possibly the short pull has created this perception. I do not currently have access to any real Jeagers, so the images are all that I have. Track sells a blueprint, but I have not received it yet. When you say short pulled- how short?

What options remain for thimble design?

Did any transitional rifles retain the button and forward swivel sling mounting configuration? Or perhaps the swivel/swivel setup on one particular Jeager of the highest order (Bavarian).

On one image, if the breech was 1.25", the wrist would be very thick.

 

[rich pierce]

The "stoutness" of a gun is determined by the thickness of the barrel, the width of the lock bolster, and the width of the buttplate. Some early guns may look "stout" because they have a barrel that is 1 and an eighth inch or more at the breech and a 2" wide puttplate. If you compare that with a later style with a 7/8" barrel, narrow-bolstered lock, and a buttplate 1 and a half inches wide, the early gun will look "full" not anorexic by comparison. But in both cases, no extra wood is left on the gun. They will have the same thickness of wood below the ramrod in the forend all the way back to the breech, there's no way to have extra wood in the lock panels beyond what is required, and from the lock panels back, the architecture will be determined by the buttplate.

 

[Erzulis boat]

Okay, Rich.

So I will shape it all relative without excess.

When I get to that stage I will post images so you can tell me if I need to "skinny" it up.

I am an "Inletting Commando", but when it comes to proportion and shape, I do not have the experience or episodes of real article inspection. The architecture trumps technical skill any day! I will learn.

Thanks-