- Joined
- Apr 10, 2020
- Messages
- 160
- Reaction score
- 208
NO !! Do not file the front sight shorter !!! THE SHORTER THE "FRONT" SIGHT , THE HIGHER YOUR POINT OF AIM WILL BE TO ATTAIN THE SAME SIGHT-PICTURE AS BEFORE YOU SHORTENED IT !!!!!!
Sighting in?
- Thread starter Mtman725
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Old Hawkeye
50 Cal.
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2020
- Messages
- 1,095
- Reaction score
- 1,996
If you file down your front sight you will hit even higher. You adjust your front sight the opposite direction you want POI to move. Lower your front sight if possible, as you move your front sight the same direction you want POI to move. Remember, FORS-front opposite, rear same.
If you're 4" high at 50m, I'd shoot again with center hold at 100m. If it's close, you might not want to change it. Just practice at various distances to get used to the hold and sight picture
I‘m an idiot!
Yes I knew that! My head was up my 4th point of contact (airborne reference). Thank you for your clarification.
rafterob
62 Cal.
65 grains FFg Goex is what my Mountain Rifle likes. I sight in at 25 yards, shoots to the same POA at 50 yards and drops about 4" at 100 yards. 1/2 turn on the rear sight screw makes up that difference.
For focus ... front sight, FrOnT sIgHt, fRoNt SiGhT, FRONT SIGHT!
All your attention/focus MUST be on that front sight, regardless of whatever aiming method you prefer. Learn to 'call your shots', especially when shooting offhand. The ability to 'call' your shot confirms that your attention was on the front sight the moment the trigger broke and you began your follow through. That does NOT mean your focus switches off ...
For sighting in and load development, although others use other aiming methods, the 6 o'clock hold is THE most precise for open and/or aperture sights, as visually the eye cannot focus on both the front sight and the bullseye at the same time. And if your focus 'switches' back andforth between the front sight and the bullseye at the shot, it may not hit where aimed, a 10 could be a 9 or worse. Some competitive shooters, with really excellent eyesight, even draw a line on an angle down the back of the front sight blade, to ensure they 'see that' while in their aim; then they know their attention is on the front sight - not the target.
Then when sighted in, I too switch to a center or dead on hold too, like others. But for precision, you sure can't beat the good ol' 6 o'c hold! Others use what works for them, but otherwise this is how all shooting schools, courses and classes worldwide are taught.
All your attention/focus MUST be on that front sight, regardless of whatever aiming method you prefer. Learn to 'call your shots', especially when shooting offhand. The ability to 'call' your shot confirms that your attention was on the front sight the moment the trigger broke and you began your follow through. That does NOT mean your focus switches off ...
For sighting in and load development, although others use other aiming methods, the 6 o'clock hold is THE most precise for open and/or aperture sights, as visually the eye cannot focus on both the front sight and the bullseye at the same time. And if your focus 'switches' back andforth between the front sight and the bullseye at the shot, it may not hit where aimed, a 10 could be a 9 or worse. Some competitive shooters, with really excellent eyesight, even draw a line on an angle down the back of the front sight blade, to ensure they 'see that' while in their aim; then they know their attention is on the front sight - not the target.
Then when sighted in, I too switch to a center or dead on hold too, like others. But for precision, you sure can't beat the good ol' 6 o'c hold! Others use what works for them, but otherwise this is how all shooting schools, courses and classes worldwide are taught.
Thank you for your wisdom. You make sense.
‘The reason I don’t like 6’oclock holding is I don’t know exactly where the ball will strike. I like putting the front sight on my intended point of impact.
I believe I filed my front sight too low because I wasn’t clear-headed about the process. I think I’m sighted in for about 75 meters because when I hold dead centre at 100 I‘m hitting a couple inches low. I need to probably put a factory new front blade on and start over.
As I understand the method, one should shoot for smallest group size at 50 yard/meters using different powder charges and wiping between shots. When the smallest consistent groups are established, then one should drift/file the sight for desired point of aim. Or am I incorrect?
Hello my Brother. Pardon me for not acknowledging sooner.
I like your name. The eighth man from Adam and the first Artificer in metals
- Joined
- May 6, 2014
- Messages
- 17,439
- Reaction score
- 16,440
Hello Brother,
I wish I could say I chose my Avatar for a reason you so eloquently stated, but in fact I did it because in the 18th century, that was the common name for a military armorer. I was both a standard and then a NM armorer as a career Marine and we built the NM, Sniper and Special Purpose weapons for the Corps. As part of the black powder hobby, I have done similar work on 18th and 19th century repro and original guns since 1974.
You are correct the traditional 6 o'clock hold is not the best for hunting, but there is a way it is ideally suited for sighting in for point of aim shooting, that most people prefer for hunting. I wish I could say I thought up the following entirely, but in truth it was only something I adapted.
First, I don't really care what the proper use of bullseye targets I buy, but I want at least a 6" and preferably 8" or 10" aiming black on them. I prefer the 8" because that to 10" is the killing zone on a deer.
I buy Avery 1" round dot, peel and stick labels and put that on the center or X Ring of the target. The reason for this is because it is in bold contrast and can be clearly seen at 100 yards. BTW, I tried blaze orange color dots and found they did not work nearly as well as plain white. These dots will stay put on the target even when you put 10 rounds of .45 acp or 7.62mm in them or virtually any ML caliber. (Oh, I have also cut 1" squares by eye from 1" wide masking tape and used them when I run out of the dots a couple of times and had to go zero a gun before I could buy more dots. They don't stay on the targets as well when hit, but it is better than nothing.)
Avery Printable Mailing Seals, 1" dia., White, 15/Sheet, 40 Sheets/Pack, (5247) | OfficeSupply.com
I then use a 6 o'clock hold on the dot in the center of the aiming black, though some folks use the center of the dot. This gives you a smaller area to aim at and that makes your groups tighter, as well as giving you a much more effective point of aim for hunting.
OK, since this post is long, I'll add a Part II, so I don't mess up and lose this typing.
Gus
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 6, 2014
- Messages
- 17,439
- Reaction score
- 16,440
Part II
I prefer to have at least four of these clean targets with the white dot in the center when I'm sighting in a rifle or gun.
Something else I do is ensure the height of the target is as close to the same as possible at all three ranges of 50, 75 and 100 yards. I eventually did that by making a moveable target frame holder, but that's the subject for a different thread.
You are correct the first thing to do is develop your load at 50 yards until you get the smallest group size possible. I don't really care where the group is on the target at first and keep using the same hold while I'm developing the load. Once I have the best load for the best groups, I move the front and/or rear sight so the group is centered horizontally (for windage) fairly close to the center of the white dot, but no need to do it exactly at this point. Then as needed, I file the front sight so the group is about 2" above my aiming point. OK, I keep that target to the side and put up a fresh one at 100 yards.
I use the same aiming point on the white dot at 100 yards and concentrate on firing the best group I can, no matter where it hits on the target. Then it's time to use one of our working tools, the square, and a yard stick or I prefer a 48" aluminum rule to get as precise of a measurement as possible on the difference in measurement of where the center of the group is between both the 50 and 100 yard targets.
For example, let's say the center of the group at 100 yards is 4 inches lower and 3 inches left from 50 yards. In theory only, we would want to correct the center of the group placement at 50 yards so it is 2 inches higher and 1 1/2 inch to the right so as to get both groups as close to center of our aiming point as possible. However, since the bullets continue to travel in an angle the further distance the target is from the bore, the above usually is only a rough, first adjustment. You have to fine tune it so the group at 50 yards is as close to possible to hitting one side of the center of the bullseye as it does in the opposite direction at 100. Then you just use your center aim at all distances.
A more complex discussion how to do this may be found here:
Make faster Hits and Improve Marksmanship with Your Point Blank Zero (everydaymarksman.co)
Gus
