Funny. In my mind they still are! It’s the double set trigger that’s killin me
Single vs Double Triggers?
- Thread starter Greebe
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@pamtnman, do you know who built your double set triggers? Have you backed the screw between the triggers one turn? Do you have any effective adjustment using that screw? Have you made any adjustments to the spring that drives the set trigger lever? That's the big spring inside the trigger plate. You want that spring held just tight enough to drive the set trigger lever to release the sear. It just doesn't look as if it would be an adjustment screw.
Visit the L&R web site and read their instructions on adjustments for double set triggers.
Lr-rpl.com
Lr-rpl.com
I have several guns in both persuasions, and one that you push forward to set (Browning Mountain Rifle). One of my guns, a T/C Hawken .45 is missing it's set screw. Now, every gun has a different pull weight except the single trigger models all using the same lock. Those would be the T/C White Mountain Carbine and the T/C Greyhawk. I kinda need to get used to each gun when I pick it up, but it is workable.
Greyhawks, New Englanders, White Mountain Carbines, and I think Renegade hunters all have a single trigger and a large triggerguard that allows for gloved fingers, and even mittens for cold weather. Guess which guns I prefer in winter?
I like double set triggers for range work and shooting small targets like squirrels. Unless you enjoy "surprises", you probably want to adjust all your double trigger guns to the same pull weight on the set trigger.
My favorite trigger arrangement is on the Browning Mountain Rifle. It is a push-forward single set trigger with a large enough triggerguard for a gloved finger, though not as large as that of the Greyhawk and other single trigger locks that T/C made. This is not my favorite gun to grab when I want to kill a milk jug though. It's a bit on the heavy side.
If I were going to build a gun, just one gun to do everything with, it would be a 16 gauge 24" smoothbore caplock with a single-set trigger just like the one on the Browning but with a larger triggerguard. It would have a single-wedge and a hooked breech. It would have a crescent butt plate and probably a gold bead front sight with a tang-mounted aperture like that of the Williams FP-Hawken. There would be no patch box on the gun. I have several guns with that feature and still haven't found a practical use for them. Needless to say, it would hold a one-inch group at a hundred yards, have an incredible curly maple stock, an ebony ramrod, and coin silver fittings. This is my dream gun though, and not likely to ever be built in this world... maybe the next.
It really comes down to personal preference and there is no right or wrong way to do it.
Greyhawks, New Englanders, White Mountain Carbines, and I think Renegade hunters all have a single trigger and a large triggerguard that allows for gloved fingers, and even mittens for cold weather. Guess which guns I prefer in winter?
I like double set triggers for range work and shooting small targets like squirrels. Unless you enjoy "surprises", you probably want to adjust all your double trigger guns to the same pull weight on the set trigger.
My favorite trigger arrangement is on the Browning Mountain Rifle. It is a push-forward single set trigger with a large enough triggerguard for a gloved finger, though not as large as that of the Greyhawk and other single trigger locks that T/C made. This is not my favorite gun to grab when I want to kill a milk jug though. It's a bit on the heavy side.
If I were going to build a gun, just one gun to do everything with, it would be a 16 gauge 24" smoothbore caplock with a single-set trigger just like the one on the Browning but with a larger triggerguard. It would have a single-wedge and a hooked breech. It would have a crescent butt plate and probably a gold bead front sight with a tang-mounted aperture like that of the Williams FP-Hawken. There would be no patch box on the gun. I have several guns with that feature and still haven't found a practical use for them. Needless to say, it would hold a one-inch group at a hundred yards, have an incredible curly maple stock, an ebony ramrod, and coin silver fittings. This is my dream gun though, and not likely to ever be built in this world... maybe the next.
It really comes down to personal preference and there is no right or wrong way to do it.
I’m 98% sure it’s an RE Davis trigger. I have monkeyed with turning the set trigger screw, and it’s not working. Or it increases the pull weight slightly, but then it slacks off. So that screw is not holding steady. I’m the last person on earth who should remove the trigger and fiddle with the springs, because as much as it’s evident something is not working properly now, you can bet on it that when I get done “fixing” it, it will really not work even more than it is not working at present. That set screw should work, and it is not working. Fortunately I was able to take my son’s 45 out tonight, so I have some backup until this trigger business is ironed out.
http://lr-rpl.com/index.php?option=...-parts-diagram&catid=41:information&Itemid=68It’s way beyond me but I’m sure there are users here who can do this
For me accuracy is in the trigger pull, to heavy, shoot like $****, like lite, reasonable, 2 lbs
I think no disadvantage of set trigger for large or small game. You learn it. Keep away from it until it is time. I use a frizzen cover like a safety, never had it trip in the field though. Can’t use gloves though.
That’s my perspective, it’s a southern perspective, it gets cold here but not daily highs in the teens.
Biggest concern with hair triggers is learning to not slap it, but to follow through during shot.
Everyone has a perspective. “Optimum” usually is the result of the practice with one’s equipment, not the equipment.
But it’s fun to get new stuff and tinker with the equipment! I’m guilty for sure…
That’s my perspective, it’s a southern perspective, it gets cold here but not daily highs in the teens.
Biggest concern with hair triggers is learning to not slap it, but to follow through during shot.
Everyone has a perspective. “Optimum” usually is the result of the practice with one’s equipment, not the equipment.
But it’s fun to get new stuff and tinker with the equipment! I’m guilty for sure…
Well, let's address the issue of set trigger and simple (single) trigger. In order to get a 2 pound pull, which is actually pretty light- you need to have the pivot pin very high. On the side plate side, the plate will usually cover the pin. The trigger itself looks sort of odd with this very high tab.
If this is something you think you may want, you can make mock single triggers from Plexiglass and see how you like it. You could even use a scrap piece of wood and inlet the lock and fiddle around with the trigger. The higher the pin location- the more wood has to be removed and you might decide a 3 pound is as far as you want to go.
If this is something you think you may want, you can make mock single triggers from Plexiglass and see how you like it. You could even use a scrap piece of wood and inlet the lock and fiddle around with the trigger. The higher the pin location- the more wood has to be removed and you might decide a 3 pound is as far as you want to go.
Jedidiah
Old, Grumpy & still kickin !
My GPR's, the only rifle's I have with the double trigger, I have adjusted ad nauseum and they will not fire with out being set. That being said, once set it fires nicely. On one Lancaster style "Longrifle" I have a "single set" trigger by William Cain, that you push forward to set. It works as designed!
I have used a number of RE Davis triggers and have not experienced the issues you are having. For a good first step to correct the light set trigger, you may want to contact RE Davis about them doing a wellness check on your trigger. If you sent Davis a photograph of your trigger they could confirm if it’s one of theirs, and if not, likely tell you who manufactured it.
As far as the heavy front trigger without using the set trigger, if there is no interference from the stock wood, problem is likely where the trigger is installed relative to the lock sear bar. Moving the trigger itself to the correct location would likely greatly lighten the front trigger pull when the set trigger is not used. Based on your comments on your skill level, probably something for skilled gunsmith/stocker to correct.
Something is wrong if your GPR won't fire unless set. Mine fires either way, but the adjustment screw did not have too much effect on trigger pull. I installed a Davis Deerslayer trigger, and it made a big difference. Trigger pull is better set and unset
You are correct about all of this. Especially the part about me letting someone skilled work on it. I’m presently sitting in a ground blind, in a beach chair, resting my aching body that did a bunch of deer drives today, and nursing my hurt feelings because I apparently missed a beautiful buck that burst out of the thick regen just as I was walking up a trail. The drivers had hemmed in two legal bucks and they popped out just I was hearing them moving. I pulled the ***single trigger *** as the sights settled on the bigger one’s chest at about forty yards. Everything looked great when the gun went off, but we found no blood, no hair, and we covered a large area looking for anything. I’m thinking some of the brush intervened. Dangit. But one of our guys did kill a big buck that I pushed to him this morning. Shame it had already dropped its antlers.
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When real Gentleman duelled, in that more distinctly honourable era Duelling was more about testing a Mans courage and determination to "see it through" rather than trying to end another Mans life.
IMHO we really are a poorer species nowadays beset and burdened with a multitude of insistent PC compromises, and leftist politically orchestrated social re-engineering activists.
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Maybe Brad Emig at Cabin Creek Muzzleloading in Hallam, York county PA. He does excellent work, but I'd expect a long wait.
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Same same for this bloke.
I do not really want to know or think about when the trigger will break. Just front sight. Target. Press and hold after it does. But this assumes a well functioning lock. If it behaves like it is full of wet sand then get it tuned.
i like both, and have both, i hate a heavy trigger, or any creep whatsoever. if i had to pick one, it would be a good tuned, by me, single trigger,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
My ML’s run about half and half, single/set triggers. My personal preference when hunting is a 1.5-2.5# single trigger for simplicity. When target/practice shooting I’ll set my double trigger rifles. A crisp, reliable let-off is my first priority regardless of style.
This is probably time for @pamtnman to give Davil Lock at the Log Cabin Shop a call to see if they can do service on the triggers and possibly the lock. Something is just not right with your triggers and lock.
http://www.redaviscompany.com/
http://www.redaviscompany.com/
