slotting barrel tenons

[2 shots]

hi all , i cant find a file small enough to slot the tenons [1/16 inch pins] . even if i drill multiple holes i would still have to clean out between them. would a 3/16 slot be enough? how do you do it? thanks. mike

 

[Travis186]

Jewelers saw.

 

[necchi]

edited a day later,, I miss-read the Op's post,, Sorry
I'll sit in the corner with a dunce cap on for 30 minutes,,

 

[stikshooter]

I guess it's a little expensive now-a-days when shipping is considered, but slotted keys are available for just about every gun out there.
There's 4 pages listed here, just be sure to check width and thickness, length too,

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/list/Item.aspx/964/1
Inexpensive "jewelers file" packs are available just about everywhere too, but you can count on destroying a file or two to get the job done when hand cutting with those cheap sets.

Honestly, I don't have a slotted key in any of my guns. Like you, I considered them for a time, it's easy enough to do,. But for me, I guess I only had to loose one,, before the lesson was learned,

Like was said a jewelers (SAW) works fine and are cheap ./Ed

 

[Ames]

Yeah, but when I read the O.P., it reads that he wants to slot the tenons under the barrel for his pins, not cut capture slots in the keys.

 

[dave_person]

hi all , i cant find a file small enough to slot the tenons [1/16 inch pins] . even if i drill multiple holes i would still have to clean out between them. would a 3/16 slot be enough? how do you do it? thanks. mike

Hi,
First, the slot does not have to be the same thickness as the pin. It can be wider as long as the pin pushes against the bottom of the slot. Second, a small round needle file will do the job because the slot does not need to be very long, certainly no longer than 1/8" in your case. Third, I urge you to use larger pins although a lot of guys use 1/16" pins for barrels, I much prefer 3/32". They are stronger, less likely to bend, and easier to tap in and out without damaging the stock. Many folks never remove their barrels but I advise folks to remove them at least once a year to check for corrosion. With respect to pins, I make them a little short so that when tapped in flush from one side, they are short of the other leaving a hole. That hole guides your pin punch preventing it from slipping off the pin and damaging the stock.

dave

 

[grey8833]

I have slotted the barrel tabs on all three of my rifles (which all use keys to hold the barrel). Round jewelers file with a tapered nose goes in the drilled hole first (the file sets are cheap and carried in most of the big box hardware stores). Get the tip of the tapered round file in the hole, widen it up enough to get the flat file in, one side of the flat file should have teeth, open the hole to a slot. If you are using a pin you probably not need the flat file. Takes time, but is not difficult (as long as that drilled hole is in the right place!).

Mike F

 

[2 shots]

thanks all , reworking a gun that was built 20 years ago. i have the file set . will get the saw. Dave , will take your advice and enlarge to 3/32 pins. i also use shorter pins for the reason you stated.

 

[tenngun]

Go to a model builders web site like Model Expo. They have all manner of tiny tools.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I use a very small round diamond cutter in a Dremel, zip, zip and you are done.

Harbor Freight has them really cheap;

https://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

 

[necchi]

Yeah, but when I read the O.P., it reads that he wants to slot the tenons under the barrel for his pins, not cut capture slots in the keys.

Thank you, my bad, I should learn how to read, I'll edit my previous post

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

hi all , i cant find a file small enough to slot the tenons [1/16 inch pins] . even if i drill multiple holes i would still have to clean out between them. would a 3/16 slot be enough? how do you do it? thanks. mike

Dremel diamond cutting tips work great! If you want a fine hole/slot then you need to get number drill bits that come in thousands of an inch. Eric also suggested diamond tips. Another poster suggested larger pins, and that needs to be considered, but IMO really has to do with stock size/bulk. A thin sleek longrifle to me would not need anything larger than 1/16".
Larry

 

[ZUG]

I drill a series of 1/16" holes then I use a jewelers saw to cut out the waist then use an "old points file" remember those - to clean up the slots.

 

[2 shots]

thanks to all. points. yes. the days you could get your self running if you broke down

 

[BadDaditood]

I got into so much trouble I had to banish my Dremel from the gun bench to the leather bench.

 

[Pete G]

I got into so much trouble I had to banish my Dremel from the gun bench to the leather bench.

Good move. Does not belong on the gun bench.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I hardly agree Pete, for most perhaps, in my case I was a serious power duck decoy carver once, I turned a hobby into a business at which point decoy carving on all my off days from my day job sucked and I quit in 86. At one point I could do the finest feather and bill detail on a decoy with a Dremel or Foredom, although I haven't carved a duck since 86 I am still pretty good with a Dremel. Most people don't know one bit from another and use the wrong one, that is what gets them in trouble.

 

[Flintandsteel]

I don’t slot my under lugs, I but them already lotted. An under lugs for a small key and a 5/64” pin do a great job.

 

[tallpine]

I tried a jewelers saw and needle files, not much luck with ether. what I found that does works is a drill or dremel with a 1/16 drill bit. Gently run it and back and forth with light pressure on the left and right side of the hole. Does not take much, about .008 to .010 on each side.

 

[Codger Craig Wilcox]

Even, or especially, with pins, I sometimes use an escutcheon to prevent damage when installing or removing pins.
Too easy for either pin or pin punch to damage the holes.