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Slugs in smoothie possibility

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Plan on the purchase of a smoothbore sometime early next year, probably 20 ga. and wonder if anyone has used any of the 'wasp-waist' type sabot slugs in a smoothie BP gun or if these are even available. If so where can they be found. Would they be worth the trouble and will the plastic cup work in a BP gun. Can't see as it would not if lubed well and placed atop a felt buffer wad. Reason I ask is that they are a heavier projectile than RB's and the design is fairly accurate. I've shot them (factory loads) in my 12 ga. centerfire (I put rifle sights on it) H&R and they beat any other factory slug at 50 yds. for accuracy. And what a wallop.
Or is this just a 'pipe dream'? :hmm:
 
Sabot slugs are made for rifled barrels, not smoothbore ones so I really don't think they'd work very well. A good ol' round ball seems to be about the best "slug" for use in a smoothbore. They're also easier to cast and in 20ga a .600" round ball will weigh around 325grs, more then enough weight to take out a deer or even an elk.
 
My smoothbores shoots patched round balls into 3"-4" groups off hand at 50yds. And that's with no rear sight.
 
It is probably wishful thinking to attempt the use of them in a 'smoothie' BP gun but my 12 ga. smoothbore H&R shoots them with better accuracy than any other slug by a noticeable amount. From what I've read from the manufacturer these slugs were made for a smooth bore, hence the 'wasp-waist' design which provides stability in flight due evidently to the aerodynamics involved.
 
Even a Foster-style slug generally will be more accurate if shot in a smootbore, simply because there is no throat at the front of the chamber for the slug to jump, and tip.

The slug does need to be centered in the bore, and some kind of patch- cloth or paper- should be used with it to make it shoot right. Also, a overpowder card is a necessity, and probably a cushion wad. I would also use a over shot card on top of the cushion wad to make sure the thin edge of the Foster slug is supported equally, and pushed on equally all around the rim, and square to the bore. Then the slug would be seated using something to protect its sides from banging on the bore on the way out of the gun, followed by an overshot card on top of the slug to keep it in place.

As to shooting the saboted wasp waist slugs, I am sure it can be done, but they are very expensive, and while they pack a good punch at 50 yds, they also come down through the sound barrier before 100 yds, and then they are less stable, and tend to yaw in flight. The early versions had very sharp corners where one angle met another, and the slugs were known to break in flight occasionally. I understand that later versions have radiused junctions, and that the breaking up in flight problem is a thing of the past.

Considering how well a PRB does at these short ranges, I could not justify the expense of loading a plastic wrapped wasp waist 50 caliber bullet in my 20 and 12 gauge guns. A 62. or 72 caliber round ball is going to make a huge hole in that deer, and they are known to expand to even larger sizes when they hit any kind of bone.
 
I use a Lyman 12 ga. slug #2654112 that I cast myself. 100 gr. of powder under a Win AA trap wad with an overshot card is powerful medicine for deer. On the range 3 shots will touch each other at 75 yds off of sandbags. This is from a smoothbore. The same style slug is available in 20ga.
 
Thanks for the link and info WS, that shape is very much like the 'Brenneke' slugs I shot out of my 12 ga. H&R with good results- cloverleaf at 50 yds. off rest. :hatsoff: I figure you use a lube that's compatible with BP - what is it. That 100 gr. charge of powder must have some recoil to it.
Lee has a 'drive-key' slug mould available but evidently it is meant for rifled barrels/choke tubes.
 
No lube, just clean after every third shot. Have never recovered a slug from dear, always complete pass through. Exit wound is much larger than entry. Goes through bone like it was not there.
 
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