Small caliber flintlock advice?

[J.D.]

Here is my current wish list from above. Slim stocked southern mountain poor boy with 3/4" straight octagon barrel. Lefty L&R Manton lock, plain walnut stock oiled dark, browned steel, .36 or .40, quality single trigger and an express 3 blade rear sight.

Thanks to everyone

I would reconsider the Manton lock. The tolerances on the one I bought were waaaaaayyyy too sloppy for a good lock. It was exchanged for a Chambers Late Ketland that is a good, fast sparker.

I suggest getting the best rifle you can afford, simply because a poorly designed lock is an exercise in frustration for an experienced flint shooter, and a sure turn off for an inexperienced shooter.

Moreover, a new production gun will lose considerable value as soon as the box is opened, where a better quality gun will only increase in value over the years.

If you can afford quality, go ahead and get it up front, otherwise you will only spend more, in time and money, trying to find that one gun that suits you...with little to no luck.

Check out Jim Parker's web page, posted in my last post. He can fix you up with what you want rather inexpensively, with much higher quality parts and workmanship than any production gun.

God bless

 

[JJB22]

I have a 32, a 45, and one of those cap thingies in 58 so I figure I have a nice spread of smokers to go to the range or the woods to make some noise with.

I like the 32 but do not see anything wrong with the 36 or 40 for the small stuff. I always seem to get the limbs and twigs jumping in from of my shot so I like the bigger caliber for hunting where I go. I have see deer taken with small caliber guns but shot placement was paramount and when missed the deer just suffered. I usually want the deer to go down in the spot or within 50 yards if I can or the shot is not worth taking. Added to that, the fact that on state land (I have gone a few times) there seems like there is a fella behind every tree so letting the deer run or bleed out for a while was never a real option.

 

[Canuck Bob]

Thank you for your frank and honest comments. I will contact your recommended shop when I'm prepared to buy. I will wear out my used Deerstalker a little first to be sure this is for me.

After browsing the forum I am sure that a .36 or .40 will suit me. I saw Mr. Chambers site and was impressed by his work.

I am starting to think about building a kit or the whole rifle in the spring to have it ready for the fall. I will buy the best components I can and plan to get a great barrel, a superb lock and single set trigger, and nice quality poorboy steel fixtures. I also like plain stable Walnut stocks so I'll put my money into barrel and locks not fancy wood or polished brass.

I am collecting info now and would be interested in anything anyone wants to share on who supplies top quality barrels and left hand locks and triggers designed for smaller calibers.

 

[rabjr]

Here is my current wish list from above. Slim stocked southern mountain poor boy with 3/4" straight octagon barrel. Lefty L&R Manton lock, plain walnut stock oiled dark, browned steel, .36 or .40, quality single trigger and an express 3 blade rear sight.

Thanks to everyone

I would reconsider the Manton lock. The tolerances on the one I bought were waaaaaayyyy too sloppy for a good lock. It was exchanged for a Chambers Late Ketland that is a good, fast sparker.

I suggest getting the best rifle you can afford, simply because a poorly designed lock is an exercise in frustration for an experienced flint shooter, and a sure turn off for an inexperienced shooter.

Moreover, a new production gun will lose considerable value as soon as the box is opened, where a better quality gun will only increase in value over the years.

If you can afford quality, go ahead and get it up front, otherwise you will only spend more, in time and money, trying to find that one gun that suits you...with little to no luck.

Check out Jim Parker's web page, posted in my last post. He can fix you up with what you want rather inexpensively, with much higher quality parts and workmanship than any production gun.

God bless

I may hesitate on a Manton unless I knew a good smith to correct them, as I do. But for future reference, if you really want that style lock, check into Bob Roller lock's.

 

[Canuck Bob]

I tried a search, were do I find info on the Bob Roller locks?

 

[rabjr]

I'm sure some of the gun builders here have his contact info. I know Roy knows because I am collecting parts for a pair of New England style pistols and will be going with his locks. I'm pretty sure the quote I was given was $200.00 a lock. A little more expensive but his locks have a very good reputation.

 

[J.D.]

Roller locks are top of the line, and at around $200 they are smooth as a babies bottom right out of the box.

LC Rice, one of the original owners of L&R will rebuild a Manton for $60-$80, so either way, it will cost about the same.

Roller buys as cast externals for the L&R Manton, then custom makes the internals. Smooth as a babies bottom, they are. The only downside is that Roller's locks are not always readily available. He Builds 'em in batches, and rotates between styles of locks and other projects, so there can be a wait of a coupla months or more.


God bless