Smoothbore bedding

[bigted]

So have a 62 smoothie that at one point wanted to fit another barrel in the stock. I needed to set the other barrel back a quarter inch so removed the 1/4 inch of wood. Now I'm going to scrap that idea but ... now my 62 barrel has a 1/4 inch gap right behind the breech.

What I contemplate is using JB weld to fill this 1/4 inch void. Already did the tang but waiting for confirmation on the usefulness of the JB weld for the filler. Do you think the JB weld is solid enough for the recoil for the long run? Or is there something else that I should consider?

Thanks for your expertise and suggestions


Ted

 

[RobertIN]

Id try to make a spacer out of wood and glue/brad nail it in. Cant imagine JB would be very pretty, but it would probably work.

 

[bigted]

Thanks. Been putting this off for a couple years. Tryin ta get it right the first time.

Sure cursing taking that 1/4 inch or so out! Live n learn I guess. Recent found an A contour stock for my 40 cal barrel so really kickin dirt about digging out the wood on this pristine 62 cal smoothie.⁰

Only reason for the JB is the forming around the wood as well as the breech area. 0

Just tryin to salvage a giant screw up. It's all my fault and I own it outside. Sure wish I could blame someone else but nope ... it's all mine!

 

[trackpin]

JB weld has strong compressive strength. It will not compress but transfer whatever load, evenly to the surface it is part of. I use epoxy , not the cheap stuff, the kind that takes 12 hours to set, mixed with sanding dust or punk as a thickener, colorant. J B weld of course will do the job but that gray would make me cringe even if never visible. I tend to bed all of my muzzleloaders to distribute recoil loads evenly, one high spot means force is concentrated there. Don’t want that.

 

[trackpin]

JB weld has strong compressive strength. It will not compress but transfer whatever load, evenly to the surface it is part of. I use epoxy , not the cheap stuff, the kind that takes 12 hours to set, mixed with sanding dust or punk as a thickener, colorant. J B weld of course will do the job but that gray would make me cringe even if never visible. I tend to bed all of my muzzleloaders to distribute recoil loads evenly, one high spot means force is concentrated there. Don’t want that.

Here is a .62 pistol bedded with an epoxy/ wood flour with colorant. The finish will be dark when done. The inletting job here looked as if they may have used a miniature chainsaw. Perfect force distribution now.

 

[Rob M.]

Following .....

 

[Gtrubicon]

Here is a .62 pistol bedded with an epoxy/ wood flour with colorant. The finish will be dark when done. The inletting job here looked as if they may have used a miniature chainsaw. Perfect force distribution now.

Beautiful job on that one.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

The best thing for the OP to do is to find a piece of wood that is as close a match to the rest of the stock as possible and glue it in with a good epoxy. He can then re-inlet the barrel. It will show but at least it will look like an honest repair. Just filling a 1/4" gap with epoxy will always look like a 1/4" gap full of epoxy. If the joint is tight on a piece of matching wood it can be nearly hidden with some staining to blend it in. I've seen a repair done this way that was hard to find the joint. It had been stained almost black to look like old, oil soaked wood. Do some practice gluing and staining and get it right. You'll be glad you did every time you look at the gun.

 

[trackpin]

Thanks, I try to do my best on little details like that that are never seen. Pretty sure with a few heavy loads things would have been moving back some without the bedding.