smoothbore cleaning

[fishindoc]

was wondering what was the best way to keep the metal and wood on the outside of the gun clean. do you use gun oil on the metal parts and what do you use with the wood
thanks
joe

 

[No Deer]

I use Breakfree CLP for the metal, and I have found that borebutter/wonderlube makes a great furniture type cleaner/polisher for the wood.

 

[Slowpoke]

Best stuff I have ever used.... builds up a nice hard finish on wood. If your wife ever uses it on the house furniture, you'll never get it back.

Kramer's Best Antique Wood Improver (clicky)

Break Free on the[url] metal...inside[/url] and out.

 

[renovato]

I've had great results using Ballistol on the metal and the wood. I havent' had any rusting and it is good for wood too. I use it as a lube and solvent too, so finding out that it works on the outside was great news. On less thing to deal with. If I'm going to put one away for a few months or more, I wipe down the metal with CorrosionX though. It outprotects and outlasts CLP by a long shot.

 

[TN.Frank]

I've been using Ballistol too but I'm slowing switching to Olive Oil, it seems to work pretty good.

 

[Coot]

I used to like CRC56 for metal (still like it for modern :redface: actions) but have switched over to Ballistol for wood and metal on my BP guns. Works well for both cleaning & preservation.

 

[Gemoke]

I use a product called Old Crafsmen`s brand LEMON OIL with BEES WAX on both metal and wood

 

[Wehrmacht]

Slowpoke,

I pulled up the website and read all that was said about this product. It sounds like it's the answer to wood preservation and restoration,but the stuff is several times more expensive per gallon than the best sour mash or straight burbon that you can buy :shocked2:. Please expand a little on why you use it-why it's best-etc. Can you contrast it with Ballistol which I have been using on the wood as well as the metal parts?

As a side note from reading all of the material on the website, I didn't realize that turpentine was now so rare and difficult to get....and I've been in the timber business for years in the heart of turpentine country....but it doesn't surprise me at all.

If this stuff is as good a wood product as you and the literature says it is,then I need to lay in a couple of gallons!

 

[Russianblood]

I too protect the metal with Break Free CLP. On the wood I use Howard's Feed-n-Wax.

Feed-n-Wax

 

[redwing]

You are right on the Ballistol great on wood and metal. You can put it down the bore and does not kill your :thumbsup: powder. My Mocs dried out real bad at a Rondy in July. I sprayed them down with B"oil and they were fine. :thumbsup:

 

[Slowpoke]

Slowpoke,
I pulled up the website and read all that was said about this product. It sounds like it's the answer to wood preservation and restoration, but the stuff is several times more expensive per gallon than the best sour mash or straight bourbon that you can buy :shocked2:.

Howdy der Foster,
I would guess it's more expensive because it's a small business, all natural, etc..... Personally I could care less about the cost of a bottle 8oz because it will last you about 3-4 years. You don't need much... just wipe it on, wait a sec, then wipe it off.
The main reason I like it is because it builds up and protects. Being from the south (like yourself) you know how wood swells/shrinks every year as the climate/humidity changes. With this stuff I don't have to worry about it.
Ever notice how the wife is always yelling at you to use a coaster when you set you drink on the table???? Why..... moister bypasses the finish on the table and causes a white circle on the table. With this stuff you don't have to worry about using a coaster :shocked2: because it will not allow moisture to pass. That's why I use it on my guns.
All Balistol is, is mineral oil and witch hazel and offer very little in the form of protection. It's a fantastic cleaner for after range use, I use it myself, but just to wipe the grime off. For protection you just can't beat the Krammer's stuff... in my opinion.
Finally, it will take about 20-30 applications to build up this finish I'm talking about, it a slow process. It's a liquid, not a paste, and takes a while.

 

[Wehrmacht]

OK, Thanks.

I'm ordering a 16oz bottle this morning.....you've convinced me to try it!

 

[Slowpoke]

Great... little doubt that you will like it, but remember... don't let the wife use it. :winking:

Also, I think the guy is a hardcore muzzleloader enthusiast and is a member of the AMA "America Mountainman Association"..... can't go wrong with those fine folks.

 

[musketman]

was wondering what was the best way to keep the metal and wood on the outside of the gun clean. do you use gun oil on the metal parts and what do you use with the wood
thanks
joe

I moved this thread to General Muzzleloading" because it's not really smoothbore specific, these methods can be used with all muzzleloaders... :thumbsup:

 

[renovato]

You are right on the Ballistol great on wood and metal. You can put it down the bore and does not kill your :thumbsup: powder. My Mocs dried out real bad at a Rondy in July. I sprayed them down with B"oil and they were fine. :thumbsup:

It's amazing on leather. I had a pair of boots that refused to break in and after a long season were still stiff. Lexol didn't help much. At the end of the season I hit them once with ballistol and they became soft as gloves. I'm actually looking forward to wearing them this winter now.

 

[marcstephen]

I too protect the metal with Break Free CLP. On the wood I use Howard's Feed-n-Wax.

Feed-n-Wax

I have used Howard's for about two years and I love it!!!

Marc Findlay