What is your favorite wax for your stock?

[IT47]

In my earlier years I used Johnson (yellow) wax. For the past 40 years I've used Ballistol on all parts of the arm. Good for metal, WOOD and leather. I like to put the Ballistol on the wood in the hot Summer months. Seems to sink in better and penetrates the wood grain. I like Ballistol because it will not damage the blue or brown of the arm. I use it on all my BP and SP arms. I use a 1" chip brush and paint the whole arm, let it set overnight, then the next day, rub it out with some clean 100% cotton cloths. Whatever is shiny stays shiny and whatever is matte or satin stays matte or satin. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

[Innkeeper476]

Johnson Paste wax. Been using it it for 60 years. Use sparingly.

 

[BullRunBear]

Another one who uses Renaissance Wax. A little goes a long, long way. (I also use it on the tenons of my briar pipes which makes it easy to take the stem off without stressing the wood.)

Jeff

 

[yellowhammer]

...Renaissance Wax...

Is it all that much better that the Minwax finishing paste you can get at Lowes and Home Depot?

 

[Dale Lilly]

I use Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax. Works well and no bright shine [soft glow]. Love it and a 3oz bottle lasts forever .. well, maybe not that long. Dale

 

[Felix the Cat]

Renaissance wax was developed by the British Museum conservation department who were looking for a medium to give long term protection, but that would not chemically react with anything it was applied to and could be removed completely using a solvent.

The problem with any protective medium is the potential damage it could cause in the long term. Natural waxes such as animal or vegetable waxes or greases do not have consistent chemical properties. They may contain contaminants that could react with the artifact in the long term and cause damage. The protective medium itself should not change characteristics such as colour or physical state over the long term.

We do know that some waxes, oils and varnishes dry out and oxidise over time, usually becoming darker and shrinking. This is a common issue in picture conservation where the image can degrade over extended periods because of varnish deterioration. In some cases, the darkening of finishes is acceptable, even desirable. Gun stocks being a good example. We must however be careful to differentiate between desirable "patina" and damaging deterioration.

For protecting iron/steel surfaces it was discovered that dust is a particularly insidious corrosion source by acting as a wicking layer drawing moisture from the atmosphere and promoting ideal conditions for rust to form. Oil does not provide a sufficiently permanent protective layer to keep dust away from a metal surface and indeed may encourage dust to collect which then absorbs it. Varnish and paint layers will provide protection, however only if there are no cracks or breaks. A stable wax that is soft enough to fill irregularities and to "self heal" but is hard enough to maintain a barrier below dust and moisture has the best prospect for long term protection.

Renaissance wax is formulated from high specification mineral and polymer microcrystalline waxes primarily designed to be chemically neutral with a solvent base. It is soft enough to apply easily but then dries to a neutral covering layer with no added colour or lasting aroma.

I use a generous coating of Ren Wax to line barrel channels and the inner surfaces of metal fittings. I also use it on the wood and metal of any guns that are in storage or display.

 

[IT47]

Renaissance wax was developed by the British Museum conservation department who were looking for a medium to give long term protection, but that would not chemically react with anything it was applied to and could be removed completely using a solvent.

The problem with any protective medium is the potential damage it could cause in the long term. Natural waxes such as animal or vegetable waxes or greases do not have consistent chemical properties. They may contain contaminants that could react with the artifact in the long term and cause damage. The protective medium itself should not change characteristics such as colour or physical state over the long term.

We do know that some waxes, oils and varnishes dry out and oxidise over time, usually becoming darker and shrinking. This is a common issue in picture conservation where the image can degrade over extended periods because of varnish deterioration. In some cases, the darkening of finishes is acceptable, even desirable. Gun stocks being a good example. We must however be careful to differentiate between desirable "patina" and damaging deterioration.

For protecting iron/steel surfaces it was discovered that dust is a particularly insidious corrosion source by acting a wicking layer drawing moisture from the atmosphere and promoting ideal conditions for rust to form. Oil does not provide a sufficiently permanent protective layer to keep dust away from a metal surface and indeed may encourage dust to collect which then absorbs it. Varnish and paint layers will provide protection, however only if there are no cracks or breaks. A stable wax that is soft enough to fill irregularities and to "self heal" but is hard enough to maintain a barrier below dust and moisture has the best prospect for long term protection.

Renaissance wax is formulated from high specification mineral and polymer microcrystalline waxes primarily designed to be chemically neutral with a solvent base. It is soft enough to apply easily but then dries to a neutral covering layer with no added colour or lasting aroma.

I use a generous coating of Ren Wax to line barrel channels and the inner surfaces of metal fittings. I also use it on the wood and metal of any guns that are in storage or display.

Thank you Felix for your very informative information concerning "Ren Wax". What do you pay, on an average, for the wax in Scotland? Thanks again and make it a great day!!

 

[Felix the Cat]

Thank you Felix for your very informative information concerning "Ren Wax". What do you pay, on an average, for the wax in Scotland? Thanks again and make it a great day!!

Renaissance wax is manufactured in UK by Picreator ltd..

https://www.picreator.co.uk
They only sell in bulk to the trade. It is however available from a number of craft and art suppliers for about £15 (about $20) for a 200ml tub. It is very popular amongst wood turners, gemmologists and knife makers..

A 3ltr bucket is about $150

 

[IT47]

Renaissance wax is manufactured in UK by Picreator ltd..

https://www.picreator.co.uk
They only sell in bulk to the trade. It is however available from a number of craft and art suppliers for about £15 (about $20) for a 200ml tub. It is very popular amongst wood turners, gemmologists and knife makers..

A 3ltr bucket is about $150

Thank you Felix for all your information. My ancestry on my mother's side are from Wales. In the old days, the sun never set on the British Empire. The taverns of Wales always had a toast to Queen Victoria. They said Queen Elizabeth was a lot like Queen Victoria. Two fine ladies.

 

[Felix the Cat]

Thank you Felix for all your information. My ancestry on my mother's side are from Wales. In the old days, the sun never set on the British Empire. The taverns of Wales always had a toast to Queen Victoria. They said Queen Elizabeth was a lot like Queen Victoria. Two fine ladies.

Diolch yn fawr...!

They certainly were! QEII was "My Boss" for most of my life.. very strange not having her still here!

God Save the King!

 

[IT47]

I hope King Charles has the grace, wisdom, and guts to lead the British Empire and all of Europe to a grander stage than what they have now. The whole world needs change.

 

[Felix the Cat]

I hope King Charles has the grace, wisdom, and guts to lead the British Empire and all of Europe to a grander stage than what they have now. The whole world needs change.

Amen to that!

 

[BullRunBear]

"Is it all that much better that the Minwax finishing paste you can get at Lowes and Home Depot?"

yellowhammer,
Just saw your question. Haven't tried Minwax on my guns, just the Renaissance Wax. I suspect any quality finishing wax would do fine since it shouldn't interact with any finish.

Jeff