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Gsyme

32 Cal
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I am still a green shooter and an even greener BP shooter but completely hooked. So, I recently found myself buying my third BP gun already, and my first forum purchase, a cool Belgian SXS from MedicMike. (My other guns are a CVA Kentucky .45 and a Pietta .36 revolver.)

For starters, is there an easy way for me to figure out if the barrels are choked? (And how important is it for me to know?)

I thank you sirs,
G
 
Most likely unchoked
When chocking was built in to guns it was often a jugged choke. A larger area about two inches from the muzzle.
Sometimes muzzle was just constricted
Either way, fit a tight patch on a jag and you will feel it
 
@Gsyme, did you ask @MedicMike3762 if the barrels of the Belgian SxS are choked?

Do you have a vernier caliper? Measure the bore diameter at the muzzle. If different, the bore is likely choked. Most likely the bore diameters of an older Belgian SxS will be identical or nearly so.

As @tenngun suggests, a gun that is jug choked will not have an observable difference in bore diameter.

The patch test will show if there is a constriction at the muzzle that indicates a choke. A relief in patch tightness about two to three inches from the muzzle for about 4 inches is an indication of a jug choke. Most likely both bores will be cylinder bored. Then you will be in the load development mode to find the best pattern for the type of shooting you are planning to do.
 
Thanks for responses and welcomes, all. @Grenadier1758, I didn't ask MedicMike but someone else had already asked him on the sale thread and he wasn't sure. But I was sure I wanted the gun.

I don't know what vernier calipers are but I do have a set of analog calipers and the bore at the muzzle is .70 on both barrels. The outsides of the barrels are visibly fatter down at the breech end. I'll try sending a patch down and feeling it out.

Thanks again and cheers. Looking forward to seeing what sorts of patterns I get. Also very curious to see how straight a round ball might fly.

- G
 
Gsyme, it gets worse. How much worse? Well you'll know how much worse when you start thinking about a bank loan for "just one more muzzleloader".
 
well my m/l shotguns are effective to the same distance as modern shotguns
Tell me about yours
Are they choked?
What’s your load
I don’t have a ml shotgun at this time. Last thirty years it’s all been fusil, and beyond twenty-five yards I can get hits but not consistently
I had a double by CVA but it was cylinder bore and twenty five was tops for reliable hits.
 
I've got a 1970's Era fowling gun. The barrel is tapered so the breech is visibly larger than the muzzle. Mine is decidedly choked as a tight patch at the muzzle is practically in free fall about 4 inches from the muzzle.

Vernier developed the analog calipers for a more precision measuring of machine tooling.

Pull the barrels and look for the proof markings on the underside of the barrels. There should be a number stamped indicating the gauge. Let us know the results of your patch test and what stamping is on your barrel.
 
have two 12 gauge both are modified in both barrels one is a cva the other is 1960;s Richards Belgium made both caplock use different loads for different hunts but mostly #7 1/2 or #6 shot for Quail and Squirrel with 70 grs 2 f 1 1/8 ounce shot
 
Thanks again for welcomes. Ok - I pulled the barrels and discovered some marks. Not easy to read. I found a number: 276 that was legible. There seems to be another number in this picture which has three digits maybe, the last one being 6 - but I can't read it. There is a little symbol ELG with a star underneath.

Also, further up the underside of the barrel there is lightly scratched V I I I ........ I 276 I I I I.
I've attached some photos. The top of the barrels says "FINE TWIST". I don't understand that on a smooth bore. Does it mean the bore isn't actually smooth?

Any insight on what all these mean I would be very curious to hear. I did the patch test and the patch felt tight until about two or three inches from the breech end at which point it loosened way up.
sxs1.jpeg
sxs2.jpeg
sxs3.jpeg
sxs4.jpeg
 
Thanks again for welcomes. Ok - I pulled the barrels and discovered some marks. Not easy to read. I found a number: 276 that was legible. There seems to be another number in this picture which has three digits maybe, the last one being 6 - but I can't read it. There is a little symbol ELG with a star underneath.

Also, further up the underside of the barrel there is lightly scratched V I I I ........ I 276 I I I I.
I've attached some photos. The top of the barrels says "FINE TWIST". I don't understand that on a smooth bore. Does it mean the bore isn't actually smooth?

Any insight on what all these mean I would be very curious to hear. I did the patch test and the patch felt tight until about two or three inches from the breech end at which point it loosened way up.View attachment 143643View attachment 143644View attachment 143645View attachment 143646
you have a set of Damascus barrels get a good magnifying glass and flash light you will see marking better then google british proof marks and you will find all you want to know about your barrels
 
Wow. Thank you R Ellis. I've already discovered the "ELG*" proof mark dates this gun between 1811 and 1892, apparently. I had no idea. Fascinating.
 
I take it back. Conflicting info on the internet, believe it or not. I don't know when this was made but it looks like MedicMike was right and it is Belgian.
 
Fine twist = Damascus barrels. You should see the spiraling grain on the barrel metal.
 
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