Smoothbore Paper Cartidges
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wahkahchimaol.com
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OK, folks, it's time...time to attempt to make paper cartridges for a Brown Bess. Any last comments or advice? 
Since this is a Pedersoli Brown Bess I intend to load 80 grains of FFG with a .69 ball. But you can talk me out of it.
Since this is a Pedersoli Brown Bess I intend to load 80 grains of FFG with a .69 ball. But you can talk me out of it.wahkahchimaol.com
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Of course I may cut the barrel down to about 24 inches since I can't load a Brown Bess in a canoe sitting down. Just joking....
Get some paper & thread & go for it wahka-man - you got nuthin' to loose. And you'll find it's easier than it looks - all you need is a little practice. Please let us know how it goes...
Eric
ps - As far as using my Charleville in a Canoe, I have given the matter some thought, & determined to leave it full length & mount it Punt Gun Style...
Eric
ps - As far as using my Charleville in a Canoe, I have given the matter some thought, & determined to leave it full length & mount it Punt Gun Style...
I have failed. Attempted to make some, but they were too delicate and I couldn't get the "fold" correct.
Powder kept on dribbling through the ball-cavity and falling out of the cartridge altogether.
I much prefer the paper-cartridges for the P1853, they're solid and well-made, but my Bess cartridges always turn into this limp, powder-shaking, mess.
Sad face.
Stupid question, how does one tie the cord/string around the ball cavity? I couldn't work it out. I made two separate ties, one around the cartridge opening and one around the ball cavity, but it didn't really seem to secure anything, as I say, powder was still falling through it, even with the "fold"
Powder kept on dribbling through the ball-cavity and falling out of the cartridge altogether.
I much prefer the paper-cartridges for the P1853, they're solid and well-made, but my Bess cartridges always turn into this limp, powder-shaking, mess.
Sad face.
Stupid question, how does one tie the cord/string around the ball cavity? I couldn't work it out. I made two separate ties, one around the cartridge opening and one around the ball cavity, but it didn't really seem to secure anything, as I say, powder was still falling through it, even with the "fold"
The paper should be tight to the ball so there is no room to get around the ball. You need at least 2-1/2 or even three layers of the rolled paper.
To tie off the ball I had a concave surface on the end of a ball diameter dowel. I wrapper the paper around both. Tied off the ball end (I didn't leave any ball showing), then a tie just behind the ball (only puckers in the paper 1/8" or so). Then I removed the dowel and dipped the ball end in a 50/50 beeswax & Crisco melted mix. When that dried I poured in the powder and folded the end over. For hunting I made a powder container of waxed paper that went in before I added the powder.
To tie off the ball I had a concave surface on the end of a ball diameter dowel. I wrapper the paper around both. Tied off the ball end (I didn't leave any ball showing), then a tie just behind the ball (only puckers in the paper 1/8" or so). Then I removed the dowel and dipped the ball end in a 50/50 beeswax & Crisco melted mix. When that dried I poured in the powder and folded the end over. For hunting I made a powder container of waxed paper that went in before I added the powder.
Here's six 16 ga. balls (dipped in plain beeswax) that fit nicely in an Altoids tin.
wahkahchimaol.com
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Stumpkiller is that what you hunt with? Looks good.
It was years ago with my Light Infantry Bess and likely will be again if I deer hunt with my new fowler. Out to 60 yards they slap a deer like a 20 gauge rifled slug.
2-1/2 dram (68 grains) of FFg and a 0.648" ball.
2-1/2 dram (68 grains) of FFg and a 0.648" ball.
Looks good, so, may I ask why are the balls dipped into lubrication, is it just to seal the cartridges, as a .648 wouldn't be a tight-fit in a Bess, so it cannot be for lubing the barrel, right? ... or is it?
Sorry, major confusion on my part :redface:
why are the balls dipped into lubrication, is it just to seal the cartridges, as a .648 wouldn't be a tight-fit in a Bess, so it cannot be for lubing the barrel, right? ... or is it?Sorry, major confusion on my part :redface:
Getting onto this thread late, here is my non- traditional Bess cartridge protocol.
My load in my Pedersoli Brown Bess for trailwalks, military shoots, whitetail and small Elk is 80 gr of 3f. with a .735 Lyman ball ball in a computer print out paper cartridge-yellow pages paper out of the phone book work well also.
The computer paper mikes at .0035 and two wraps around the mandrel-cartridge stick- bring the paper patched ball to close to the .749 muzzle diameter. I use just a simple rectangle rather than a trapazoid. Before puting the powder in the cartridge I dip the cartridge with the ball in place in hot paraffin (sp) wax to just cover the portion of the cartridge were the ball is.
To load, the cartridge is torn, the powder is poured and the cartridge is reversed and thumb loaded waxed portion first into the barrel. The portion of the cartridge now above the crown of the barrel is then torn off leaving a waxed-for lubrication- paper patched ball which is then rammed home on top of the powder charge. If permitted by the event, it is advisable to reload with this type cartridge immediately after firing when the barrel is warm from the previous discharge.
This protcol is something like the British drill for Enfield Rifled Musket cartridges.
My load in my Pedersoli Brown Bess for trailwalks, military shoots, whitetail and small Elk is 80 gr of 3f. with a .735 Lyman ball ball in a computer print out paper cartridge-yellow pages paper out of the phone book work well also.
The computer paper mikes at .0035 and two wraps around the mandrel-cartridge stick- bring the paper patched ball to close to the .749 muzzle diameter. I use just a simple rectangle rather than a trapazoid. Before puting the powder in the cartridge I dip the cartridge with the ball in place in hot paraffin (sp) wax to just cover the portion of the cartridge were the ball is.
To load, the cartridge is torn, the powder is poured and the cartridge is reversed and thumb loaded waxed portion first into the barrel. The portion of the cartridge now above the crown of the barrel is then torn off leaving a waxed-for lubrication- paper patched ball which is then rammed home on top of the powder charge. If permitted by the event, it is advisable to reload with this type cartridge immediately after firing when the barrel is warm from the previous discharge.
This protcol is something like the British drill for Enfield Rifled Musket cartridges.
Hamkiller said:
I was just thinking that myself. :thumbsup:
Do you use any type of fold, or separator between the ball and powder? If not, do you find that powder creeps in and around the ball itself?
What sort of accurate distance can you get with a cartridge like that?
Tower75 said:Looks good, so, may I ask
Sorry, major confusion on my part :redface:
The beeswax is lube.
The Bess I had was the Model of 1757 Light Infantry fusil - 42" barrel of .662" bore ("Carbine length and caliber" per the Board of Ordnance). With a 0.648" ball and beeswax it's tight enough I take a lot of care and firm pressure with both hands now with my 5/16" wood rammer and the fowler I own of that same 16 gauge bore. :shocked2: I may have Jeff Tanner make me up a 0.640" round ball mold.
Here's THE MAN himself with the Bess he made me - Kit Ravenshear.
Is that the "Jeff Tanner" who's on my side of the pond? If so, bloody hell, his name gets around :rotf:
Nice lookin' Bess. I have a sort-of carbine, it's the Pedersoli "Brown Bess carbine", the one where they just took a Short Land Pattern and shortened it. Not historically correct, but it's handy. Easier to load then my SLP, the carbine is musket-bore however.
Nice lookin' Bess. I have a sort-of carbine, it's the Pedersoli "Brown Bess carbine", the one where they just took a Short Land Pattern and shortened it. Not historically correct, but it's handy. Easier to load then my SLP, the carbine is musket-bore however.
