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Smoothbore powder loads for deer hunting question

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SammyP

32 Cal
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Hey, I plan on getting a 20 gauge fowler in the near future and will mainly be using it for small game but I would also like to use it for deer on occasion. Ive been looking up powder loads and shot loads are simple enough but I have a question on RB loads. What is an appropriate powder load for a .600 or so RB? Most information I find regarding hunting loads is in the ballpark of 60 to 80 grains. I mainly use a .50 cal hawken for deer and run 80 grains of FFg through it and it works amazing. Wouldn't a larger bore take more powder say upwards of 100+ grains? Would it be for accuracy? Any help is appreciated!
 
Hey, I plan on getting a 20 gauge fowler in the near future and will mainly be using it for small game but I would also like to use it for deer on occasion. Ive been looking up powder loads and shot loads are simple enough but I have a question on RB loads. What is an appropriate powder load for a .600 or so RB? Most information I find regarding hunting loads is in the ballpark of 60 to 80 grains. I mainly use a .50 cal hawken for deer and run 80 grains of FFg through it and it works amazing. Wouldn't a larger bore take more powder say upwards of 100+ grains? Would it be for accuracy? Any help is appreciated!
I use 65 grains 3f with either a patched .595 ball or a .610 ball sandwiched in between a lubed wad and a couple of thin cards in one of my 20 gauge guns. The other prefers 75 grains 2f with wads.
Both guns shoot well with 80 to 85 grains of powder, patched in one, wads in the other, but with the sub 4 inch group at 50 yards accuracy I get with the lesser powder charge, and the low odds of getting a shot at a deer at or over 50 yards where I hunt, I don't see the need to burn the extra powder.
The odd thing is, especially in the heavier barreled smoothrifle, the lower powder charge seems to be more versatile regarding how the ball is loaded. That said, neither shoots its best with tight fitting loads.
 
You will find that you need less powder than a lot of folks will say.

50-70 grains will work splendid if you do your part. Maybe up to 80 but I highly doubt it will be needed. Certainly not 100 grains or more. No need to get magnumitis with these guns. For hunting with these guns, shot placement and wound channel are the key. Hit that boiler room with a patched roundball pushed by 50+ grains of powder inside of 60 yards....there ain't a deer on this earth that can walk that off.

If you are hunting with a smoothbore you are probably going to be hunting in close 75 yards or less. Dial a load in at 50 yards, your smoothbore should be able to do that with ease with a decent load. I find smoothbores to be a lot less finicky than a rifle in close. Now once we get out to about 80 yards....I can't hit a target well enough to take the shot on a hunt. I'll creep up closer. ;) Now there are shooters who can do a lot better with a smoothie, but I ain't one of them.
 
Black powder burns slower than smokeless, so it will not all burn, it becomes part of the payload. When I started back in the '70s, I thought more was better, this isn't necessary so. Have fun!!
 
Generally, based on what I read here, the folks who are using 100 grains or more in a 20 gauge are shooting a totally bare ball. Ball directly on powder and just some type of wadding over the top to hold it in.
 
Black powder burns slower than smokeless, so it will not all burn, it becomes part of the payload. When I started back in the '70s, I thought more was better, this isn't necessary so. Have fun!!
That's not correct at all. I've done many many tests as a young man.
And EVERY BP manual I've read says the same. Black powder doesn't burn, it IGNITES. I'm sure there are videos on YouTube showing this.
Smokeless pistol powder burns much faster than smokeless rifle powder, but both crawl compared to BP. This is why smokeless create 3xs the energy, burning slower.

Every competition shooter, or even handloader will tell you accuracy typically drops as velocity increases.
That's why Schutzen cartridges never break 1400fps, most don't break 1300fps.
 
Hey, I plan on getting a 20 gauge fowler in the near future and will mainly be using it for small game but I would also like to use it for deer on occasion. Ive been looking up powder loads and shot loads are simple enough but I have a question on RB loads. What is an appropriate powder load for a .600 or so RB? Most information I find regarding hunting loads is in the ballpark of 60 to 80 grains. I mainly use a .50 cal hawken for deer and run 80 grains of FFg through it and it works amazing. Wouldn't a larger bore take more powder say upwards of 100+ grains? Would it be for accuracy? Any help is appreciated!
My best load for my 14 bore round ball is thin patched smooth RB, 80grs fffg, and let fly. According to Lyman and every NSSA member, you get about 40% more velocity using fffg than ffg. This load should develop about 1200 fps.
Screenshot_20240827_020318_Samsung Internet.jpg

My last outing with my 14 was about like my first time, which I took pics.
Here's 25 yards, offhand, no rest. 3shots.
I think I'll back it down to 60grs fffg next time. It really talks to my shoulder.
 
When I got my Centermark TFC they recommended 80 grains with a hundred grains max. 80 grains was good, seventy five wasn’t any better, nor was eighty five.
Then I the forum I read a lot of guys liked sixty -sixty five. Tried that and liked it.
Dualist 54 did some vids with bare ball at one hundred ten grains and it shot well for him with bare ball
Shooting patched vs bare with sixty five I got this, patched looks a little better but the group size is actually about the same
IMG_1602.jpeg
 
One thing to keep in mind, when ever peop le talk gage they are usually talking about light weight shotgun/ fowler barrels. If they say 20 bore they should be talking about rifle barels. A thin lightweght shotgun will not stand heavy rifle charges. JMO YMMV
 
Those large round balls don't need a lot of velosity to penetrate cpmpleatly and you won't drive them hard enough to expand nor do you need to. 60 to 80g is a good range to be in. More just makes it harder on the wood and the loose nut on the stock.
 

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