Sno- seal

[Brokennock]

I've had leather boots leak with sno-seal and I've had leather boots that were exceptionally water-resistant when using sno-seal. (I'm loath to use the term "waterproof" with anything but rubber/neoprene) I am not sure why one pair fails and another stays dry. I think design and seam placement, and how these effect ware and tear, plays a role.
All one can do is try it and see what happens if one doesn't already have something else working for them.

 

[morehops52]

After reading many replies here I can only say that it is imperative that you work Sno Seal into the stitching and push it well into the welt where the boot and sole meet. After several years my boots look like they have thin coat of caulking on them. As far as cold toes go, I live in the NE and have insulated boots large enough to get heavy socks into.

 

[sheriff john]

One pair of L.L Bean "Maine Guide Boots" I wear are over 50 years old. All I've ever used on them is Sno-Seal (on the elk leather uppers). About every 4 years, I've sent them back to have new rubber bottoms put on and other minor fixes (mostly the loop used to pull the boots on with).

In my prime, they were worn probably 3-4 months each year. Multiple insoles & laces, but the elk leather tops are still supple. These are the unlined ones, worn with pants on the outside of the boots, mostly.

 

[hawkeye2]

Sno-seal is one of those products no longer allowed in my house. Many years ago applied some to a pair of my favorite leather insulated gloves. After that it seemed any time I wore the gloves in cold weather my fingers neatly fell off from the cold. I then made the mistake of using it on a pair of Herman Survivor boots. For whatever reason, the glue holding the sole to the boots decided to let go after using the Sno-seal. Neither company could explain what happened and blamed the other. I have never tried Sno-seal as a patch lube, but can not imagine a reason why I would or should.

If you used it for a patch lube the oil on your lock would probably freeze up and the sights fall off.

 

[Danny Ross]

One of the ways to melt Sno-Seal that I have done for years if it is in a can. Take a small pan, put the can of Sno-Seal in it, fill the pan with water so it is 1/2-3/4's of the the way up the side of the can of Sno-Seal. Take the can of Sno-Seal out, put the pan of water on the stove and bring the water to a boil then turn the heat down to low, put the can (with the lid off) in the hot water and leave it there till the Sno-Seal melts to a liquid, then take the can out of the water. If putting it on boots, put it on with your fingers and rub it in well, it is not hot enough to burn. After I put it on (I usually did this in the summer) I would set them in the sun and let it melt in further. Sno-Seal work best on leather with a rough texture or non-polished leather boots. Doing this will also rejuvenate the Sno-Seal. I don't know if I would want to use it as a patch lube with the silicone that is in it. DANNY

 

[SOLANCO]

A friend that used to work in a boot repair shop said the customers that used sno seal had less issues with stitching rotting out and going bad compared to mink oil and other similar treatments. Ive used it ever since the 80s after hearing that.

As far as soles being glued on, thats not really very good quality build practice. The glue can also simply fail due to age. The better quality loggers and such are stitched on.

When used in large quantities soaked well into my logger and bean boots, it works pretty well, the bean boots being the taller ones, i can stand in a creek and stay dry so long as thr stitching is well dosed with sno seal.

Yes, taking dry leather gloves and putting oil or wax or anything that transmits cold will make your hands or feet cold, not a surprise. Regular boots and gloves are seasonal for me, the pacs come out once it gets into snow and slop season, as well as mittens, and I never put anything on my deerskin gloves, if they get wet then I get another pair and dry out the wet ones.

Yes the stitching can be the weak point in your waterproofing. A moccasin toe boot is harder to waterproof.
Unmentioned thus far are wool socks. Wet cold feet will ruin your day. Wool is a miracle fabric that will stay warm when wet. It can be helpful to wear wool socks over a silk sock liner.

 

[arjay]

The best way to apply Sno Seal is to pre-heat the boots either in a pre-warmed 120° oven or with a hair dryer. The Sno Seal will then be be drawn in to the pores of the leather. The story goes that if you melt the Sno Seal first the temporary solvent is evaporated away and the remaining wax will not absorb into the leather as intended.
Sno-Seal Application Tips and Instructions

 

[longcruise]

Throw it away and get a new jar. It's not particularly pricey.

 

[Pukka Sahib]

Throw it away and get a new jar. It's not particularly pricey.

For what it’s worth, my first exposure to Sno-Seal is when my Pops bought me my first baseball glove. When we went to check out, my father asked if we should get neatsfoot oil to treat the pocket. The store owner suggested the Sno-Seal as a better alternative. I’ve used it ever since then, and that was around 1954.

 

[Malamute]

Yes the stitching can be the weak point in your waterproofing. A moccasin toe boot is harder to waterproof.
Unmentioned thus far are wool socks. Wet cold feet will ruin your day. Wool is a miracle fabric that will stay warm when wet. It can be helpful to wear wool socks over a silk sock liner.

I usually wear Hathorn Smoke Jumpers (logger type) unless its really sloppy wet or cold out. I dont consider them waterporoof in the sense Id stand in water and not worry, but treatment keep them leather from getting soaked and stays supple. The LL Bean Maine Hunting boots can do that, but not the Smoke Jumpers/Loggers. Ill dash through a creek in the Smoke Jumpers but not casually walk in it or stand around unconcerned.

I always buy them sized to fit Spenco impact or gel insoles, and wearing heavy wool socks. Being on my feet literally all day when doing construction work or hiking in the mountains, my feet never feel sore at the end of the day. They were a bugger to break in at first, but after 2 or 3 weeks they became my all time favorite most comfortable boots ive ever worn. I had the lowers replaced once (this is a complete factory rebuild, not soles, but all the lower leather and soles and heels), but didnt take good enough care of them to do it again. They were new in 07 I believe, after having the last couple pairs of Red Wing loggers give up way too soon (less than a year on the last ones). The boot shop gave me full credit on the last pair of Red Wings and applied it to the Hathorns. best money I ever spent on boots. they are now around $575, its a bit of a hit, but theres no way id consider cheaper boots after having worn them.

Back to goop, a friend does old style late 1800s holsters, cartridge belts, saddlebags and such, he uses Skidmores, another beeswax based product with some oils added, and supplies me a small can from his large stock as i need it. Its been pretty good stuff so far. I rub it in heavily. It acts a bit different thaa Sno Seal. I try to do both in hot sunlight when i can and let it melt into the leather and keep putting it on until it wont take any more, at least on boots. A hair dryer can get much the same result. Cartridge belts just get a light application of Skidmores.

 

[hapEcat]

I've used this: Rust-Oleum, Clear 280886 Shield H2O Boot and Shoe Spray
It has kept my zip up snake boots waterproof for 5yrs now. Another friend used 3M Scotch Guard on his snake boots, and they have also remained waterproof. Both of us turkey hunt and have to wade creeks.... No leakage!

 

[nhmoose]

All the boots I have owned leaked no matter what you used to waterproof them. Timberland soles separated around the 3-year mark. LL bean Maine guide boots suck period might as well walk barefoot and get the bruises that way. Your feet gonna freeze in them anyway.

Bought my first Rocky insulated and Gore-Tex lined in 1994-5 on recommendation of a Maine guide. My tootsies been warm and dry since, so has the wife's and son's. They cost but well worth it.

However, in Winter snow time Sorrells with a couple of spare wool felt liners so you can dry the liners every night are the best to sled or snowshoe with.

 

[morehops52]

nh moose my experience as been much like yours. Both Timbe land and Wolverine offer fairly decent quality boots that are unfortunately 3-5 year throwaways. Yep the felt pack boots are better to keeping feet warm but in my part of PA, namely the not flat part, they are tough for a day of walking. The up and down hill terrain is tough on the toes because I can't lace them tight enough like regular leather boots. Great for low and flat lands. I've never owned Rocky boots but the best outdoorsman I know swears by them as has driven many miles to get the pair he wanted. FWIW he shoots Weatherby and glasses distance with Swarovski binocs.

 

[Dave Markowitz]

nh moose my experience as been much like yours. Both Timbe land and Wolverine offer fairly decent quality boots that are unfortunately 3-5 year throwaways. Yep the felt pack boots are better to keeping feet warm but in my part of PA, namely the not flat part, they are tough for a day of walking. The up and down hill terrain is tough on the toes because I can't lace them tight enough like regular leather boots. Great for low and flat lands. I've never owned Rocky boots but the best outdoorsman I know swears by them as has driven many miles to get the pair he wanted. FWIW he shoots Weatherby and glasses distance with Swarovski binocs.

I've read that Appalachian Trail hikers refer to PA as "where boots go to die." We have some rough country in this state.

As for Sno-Seal, I've been using it on boots at least since the early 1990s with good results.

 

[morehops52]

"where boots go to die." is a good description. Many decades ago I bought a pair of Irish Setters which were about as good a boot as you could buy back then. A national hunting mag mentioned the exact mountain we hunt as "The toughest turkey hunting terrain you'll experience in the east". That mountain took 15 years off those boots life and no fault of the Irish Setters. That's about 20 miles from Penn State University.

 

[halman]

has anyone used sno seal to cover the loaded round balls in a revolver for chain fire issues?