Spear head load board
- Thread starter SHAGBARK
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Looks good.
The only thing I would add is a hole in one end to tie a thong through. I like to carry my loading blocks on a thong around my neck. I use a large one, like yours, for target shooting. For hunting, my loading blocks only hold 2 to 4 balls.
The only thing I would add is a hole in one end to tie a thong through. I like to carry my loading blocks on a thong around my neck. I use a large one, like yours, for target shooting. For hunting, my loading blocks only hold 2 to 4 balls.
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Now that's super. 11 patched balls should give you the edge to keep a war party back at the edge of the tree line. Or , on reflection , this board will cause you to not drop your balls in the leaves like I used to do , before I made my first one. With ya buddy.
Yes sir, if I like it there will be a hole to tether it down on the south end
Also made a new starter today
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DOUBLEDEUCE 1
69 Cal.
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That loading block is just plain old cool ! Not your run of the mill drab stuff. 
TDM
Cannon
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Very nice work. I like them both.
Nice looking rig. I would round the ends just in case? you never know when a hostile root or rock will ambush you.
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You don't need a hole, just tie it around the tail.
Mike in FL
50 Cal.
'Tis just wrong, cheating, even blasphemous, but in my old age, I have begun to take short cuts that lessens time and steps in loading: pre-loaded, push-thru, PLASTIC tubes. I realize such as that spoils the authenticity and is highly frowned upon by many. My only defense is that the little waterproof devices are out of sight in my possible bag. I carry no flask or horn or powder measures, no loose balls, no patches or patching material, when I go hunting or to the range. I carry enough of those ghastly things to meet the needs of whatever I will be doing on any outing, and then a few more. I have wrongly traded period correct for convenience and suffer the shame. It is akin to wearing oversized moccasins over sneakers. I suppose I try to justify it by saying if it can't be seen, it's not there, but in my guts I know it's a lie.
Scott_C
36 Cal.
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Perhaps use brass or copper tubing, cane, drill out a dowel or such to get rid of the plastic using a cork to contain? Some drill 5 holes in a 1x4 with dowel plugs. Or perhaps paper charges like the military paper cartridges, but without the buck & ball (baking parchment paper works well)? There are ways to get around it.
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Mike in FL
50 Cal.
That is a great idea. I did that with dowel rods and corks many decades ago when I had access to a machine shop and a a machinest. He drilled .50 caliber holes and it worked wonderfully without me using materials available 'then'. You inspire me to try again..
Hey man, no shame, you're still making smoke. That's more than most!
Now that's nice work, 
nicest one i have seen.
hanshi
Cannon
NICE! You didn't just "make" some things, SHAGBARK, you "handcrafted" them.
If you want to make period correct cartridges and just carry those instead of a powder horn, they were doing that all the time in the Rev War. Here's a shot of an actual French cartridge from the American Revolutionary War. They kept these in cartridge boxes riding on their right hip and the boxes typically held 18 to 24 cartridges. Since most reenactment events mandate loading blank charges with powder in a cartridge and prohibit carrying powder in a powder horn, I just put the cartridges in my shooting bag, which I also carried over my right hip. The difference in the blanks we made and used is there was no lead ball in them. The twine was used to keep the lead ball in place with the real cartridges to keep the ball attached to the paper They were using undersized balls for rapid loading and firing and without being rammed down with the paper, the ball could easily roll out of the barrel. so the twine kept it with the paper. With a rifle, that's not a problem so you don't need the twine if you're making these for use with a rifle.
If you're interested in trying these, I've attached instructions on how to make these cartridges without the twine. It suggests using a length of copper tubing, but I've always used a wooden dowel just slightly smaller than the size of the barrel muzzle (spill far less powder that way). Those plastic pre-loads are just a refinement of this method and not a real advantage. To use the paper cartridge, flip up the top; bite it off with your front teeth close to the powder; pour a little in the pan; dump the rest down the barrel; and ram down the lead ball.
I do suggest you give the paper cartridges a try though as they are both efficient and period correct for the Rev War. So, no worries about the shame. Or of course, you can just keep on using your plastic preloads if you prefer, because they work just fine.
