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Stain for a Maple stock?

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William Joy said:
You also can get pine tar in tack shops or even vets for horses ( they use it on hooves....)

Also the big pet food stores and farm stores.

Lots of old time uses for pine tar.

:v
 
Paul V
I believe that you should neutralize the aqua-fortis after the blushing not before.You need the acid to made the oxide that colors the wood.Many believe that it is the different colors of iron oxides which give the different shades of color that can be achieved with aqua-fortis and the strenth of the acid has a lot to do with that.I use amonnia to neutralize which eliminates the problem of the baking soda leaving a white film behind!!

Mitch
 
I have only used AF once, and followed directions in the back of Dixie GW's catalog when I did it. I had not thought of Ammonia as a neutralizer, but its a fine idea. Water used in washing off the stock always removes the Baking soda film that sometimes gets into nooks and crannies. An old toothbrush works out the stiff from the tight spots.
 
It's really just another word for burnishing. If you've ever seen the polished finish on an early Mauser bayonet, that's a needled surface. It is a pretty rust resistant finish. I have a feeling that the bright finish on Besses and Springfield rifle-muskets is pretty close to a needled finish. My old '63 Springfield has been rode hard and put away wet, and there's no rust on it anywhere. Just a nice soft sheen like old silver. I'd really like to know what tool was used to polish the bayonets and the old guns. To my eye it really is a lovely finish.
 
Fascinating isn't it how we've lost some of the abilities the old timers had. Was reading awhile ago about the fellow named Black who made the original Bowie knives. It was claimed his blades were 'flexible' and that he somehow had discovered the secret of the Damascus blade. Said he tried to teach his son how to do it, but, with age, had forgotten the technique. Interesting though how burnishing metal resists rust.
 
I have heard this debated for years but my question is when the rope burns into what is going to hold the ends to the stock to continue the striping?

As to striping with a brush and india ink unless you are reproducing a Lehman it does not seem cost effective to spend that much time instead of just buying a striped stock to start with.
 
try nitric acid with just a little steel wool disolved in it. use bakin soda and water to neutralize it the longer you leave it on the wood the darker it will get might take a few coats.
 
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