Starting my first build

[kyron4]

Been wanting a flintlock for some time, and finally settled on the Traditions Kentucky rifle kit. Had trouble finding the kit in flintlock, the percussion kits and complete flintlock rifles are everywhere; the flintlock kit not so much. Found the kit at https://www.muzzle-loaders.com . Shipping was only $10 and I had the kit within a week (unbelievable in 2022). Also noticed all their bullets and accessories ship free , so worth checking out. It will be my first kit, although I've watched a tons of videos, and I'm pretty handy in the shop so no worries. Not going to get in a big hurry, work on it a little bit when I can, but I will post the final results here when I'm done. I plan to ditch the brass spacer, brown the barrel, and stain in a med. dark walnut with a matte finish. I know it's a cheap kit and my expectations are set accordingly , but for a first buildit seems like a good way to cut my teeth.

Any tips or suggestions from anyone that has done this kit ? Seems pretty straight forward for the most part. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions for the pros going forward, so bear with me -Thanks

* the barrel is not bent or warped , picture is distorted for some reason

 

[davidmc62]

Nice catch and good luck. That model of rifle has been around in kit for for a long time. They are pretty simple and usually easily assembled. They come with a lot of wood, a lot more wood than you need so dont be afraid of wood removal to get your desired shape. The locks are hit or miss, hope you get a decent one. Simple trigger and all metal parts will benefit from a good polish on the bearing surfaces to make it function smoothly. Most of all have fun! This was a CVA Kentucky(fore runner to your Traditions gun) I rebuilt for a friend.

 

[Hawthorn1213]

That's a great rifle kit there! I just finished putting together an old CVA Kentucky kit and it turned out great. Here's a link to the build forum - Hopefully it can help step you through the process:

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...ited-muzzleloaders.140098/page-3#post-2013642

 

[kyron4]

Thanks for the link. I too plan on plugging and redrilling the stock pin holes for better alignment and also using a section of 1/2" od/ 3/8" id steel tube in the ramrod hole to join the two halves for a stronger more ridged fit.

I also plan to attach the nose cap to the stock and not to the barrel. Seems fairly easy to do.

 

[rafterob]

There have been some posts over the years here on some really well done Traditions/CVA Kentucky rifles. Do a search and check them out. They actually are pretty well made and known for good accuracy.

 

[Sidney Smith]

Nice starter kit. Good to learn on. Eventually I think you will want more rifle than what Traditions offers. They're locks are dinky and hard to get a flint to work with. Their patent breech is a PIA to clean and to keep running properly.

 

[sb 54 cal.]

Built one this year added my own touches. My lock works pretty well with a few alterations also added a spring to trigger so it didn't flop around win lock was all the way forward.

 

[sb 54 cal.]

Also change to better ramrod. It takes a 9mm rod. I got mine from track of the wolf

 

[Mtman725]

Nice find enjoy.

 

[Loja man]

Last year I finished the percussion version of this kit. I had added a cap box and the side plate. Also on mine the front bolt that holds the lock in place also holds the ramrod spring. If you remove the lock during cleaning the spring falls loose inside the stock. Then you have to take the barrel off to get the spring back in place. In order to resolve that frustration I moved the spring forward a few inches in the ramrod channel and added a metal pen to hold it. If I was to do it again I would also take more off the nose of the rifle stock, it beats me up pretty good.

 

[Mtman725]

Looks good how it shoot?

 

[kyron4]

Last year I finished the percussion version of this kit. I had added a cap box and the side plate. Also on mine the front bolt that holds the lock in place also holds the ramrod spring. If you remove the lock during cleaning the spring falls loose inside the stock. Then you have to take the barrel off to get the spring back in place. In order to resolve that frustration I moved the spring forward a few inches in the ramrod channel and added a metal pen to hold it. If I was to do it again I would also take more off the nose of the rifle stock, it beats me up pretty good. View attachment 126945View attachment 126975

That looks awesome. What kind of stain and finish did you use ? I too am leaving the brass plate out from between the two stocks, is your attached permeantly together ? I have to get creative with the brass nose cap since the holes don't line up from being short from omitting the brass plate.

 

[Loja man]

That looks awesome. What kind of stain and finish did you use ? I too am leaving the brass plate out from between the two stocks, is your attached permeantly together ? I have to get creative with the brass nose cap since the holes don't line up from being short from omitting the brass plate.

Yes, my stock is fixed together permanently. I used G flex epoxy. I braised a thicker piece of brass onto the back of the muzzle cap. I used Laurel Mountain Forge cherry stain as a base coat. Then nut brown on top of that. Finished with Southerland Wells polymerize tongue oil. It was my first build and I was very pleased with the finished product. It shoots real nice other than the cheek slap

 

[Loja man]

Looks good how it shoot?

It shoots good!! The targets are a couple of the monthly postal match targets. 25y off hand.

 

[Mtman725]

Nice, good buck as well.

 

[davidmc62]

That looks awesome. What kind of stain and finish did you use ? I too am leaving the brass plate out from between the two stocks, is your attached permeantly together ? I have to get creative with the brass nose cap since the holes don't line up from being short from omitting the brass plate.

Yes if youre going to remove the brass spacer, you will have to plug and re drill the pin holes, the ramrod guides, the nose cap. All those in lettings and holes will be off by a few. That is what I had to do with the kit I rebuilt, but it can be done and I think you will learn a lot about the process whan you sit and try to overcome all those challenges. I glued the stock pieces together and used a different nose cap, thinner pins and different trigger guard. All the rest was what CVA provided.

 

[Cotton52]

Been wanting a flintlock for some time, and finally settled on the Traditions Kentucky rifle kit. Had trouble finding the kit in flintlock, the percussion kits and complete flintlock rifles are everywhere; the flintlock kit not so much. Found the kit at https://www.muzzle-loaders.com . Shipping was only $10 and I had the kit within a week (unbelievable in 2022). Also noticed all their bullets and accessories ship free , so worth checking out. It will be my first kit, although I've watched a tons of videos, and I'm pretty handy in the shop so no worries. Not going to get in a big hurry, work on it a little bit when I can, but I will post the final results here when I'm done. I plan to ditch the brass spacer, brown the barrel, and stain in a med. dark walnut with a matte finish. I know it's a cheap kit and my expectations are set accordingly , but for a first buildit seems like a good way to cut my teeth.

Any tips or suggestions from anyone that has done this kit ? Seems pretty straight forward for the most part. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions for the pros going forward, so bear with me -Thanks

* the barrel is not bent or warped , picture is distorted for some reason

View attachment 126256

I built one like that years ago, it was a CVA. I made a “Star” inlay to cover the joint in the stock and did a lot of carving on the stock. I painted on the “Curly Maple” grain with walnut stain then put a thinned Maple stain over the entire stock. Everyone thought it was an expensive custom rifle! It did come out well, take your time and have fun! Cotton