I Am wanting to start a build and I don't really know where to start. Should I get the stock and finish the stock then start to get the rest? I am getting a pre inlay stock so only finishing would be sanding and staining. I'm just looking for advice I can't start on it til this summer so I'm justtrying to find a starting point thanks
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starting point on a build?
- Thread starter jrbaker90
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Blackbruin
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Buy chuck dixons book art of creating a longrifle. Easiest reading less complicated than others, that will answer your question.
galamb
58 Cal.
Short answer NO.
Do you have a book or two on rifle building? If not that should be your first step. After you have read them "multiple times" and asked questions in forums such as this then -
There is sorta/kinda order than you need to do things in or you create way more work for yourself or even possibly make an error that can not be readily fixed.
One time (and learned from that) I started a rifle without having all the major components. By the time I needed a couple of them nobody had them in stock - for months.
So unless you are potentially willing to wait up to a year for that last major component you need, buy your stuff "up front".
I make a distinction between the two different levels of pre-done stocks.
Some are simply "pre-shaped" - normally the barrel channel is inlet and the ramrod hole is drilled. The stock is kinda/sorta shaped but the lock, butt plate, nosecap etc are not inlet for you.
Then there is the pre-inlet where it's cut out for a specific lock (or maybe a couple of options), triggers may be inlet (again, have to use what they specify), butt plate inlet mostly finished etc.
You can "NOT" start finishing these stocks until you have the furniture and barrel installed - otherwise you wouldn't know what to finish shaping (these are only done about 90-95% - they are builders kits not an "assemble part A into slot B" kinda thing - there is upwards of 100 hours of work on a kit from Track, Chambers, Pecatonica etc)
Minimally, if you are going to try and do a "pay as you go" type kit build you should get the stock and the barrel at the same time.
Leaving a stock laying around that has a barrel channel cut "without" a barrel in it can cause it to twist/warp unless you kept it in a climate controlled environment.
This is an "order of operations" that many builders use - in some cases a step may not apply with a pre-inlet/pre-carve but should give you an idea of the order:
Ӣ Remove breech plug and finish barrel inlet Then, inlet tang.
Ӣ Inlet lock.
Ӣ inlet trigger/trigger assembly.
Ӣ install butt plate and partially shape buttstock. Make sure you establish the final line of the bottom of the buttstock and lower forearm in order to inlet the triggerguard.
Ӣ install triggerguard and partially shape lock mortice and wrist.
Ӣ install ramrod pipes
Ӣ install, and inlet barrel loops/lugs.
Ӣ Install barrel pins or wedges
Ӣ Install tang and lock screws
Ӣ Finish shaping buttstock, lock mortice, and wrist. Start at the lock mortice and work back to the butt plate.
Ӣ Shape forestock starting at the lock mortice and working forward to the muzzlecap.
Ӣ install muzzlecap
Ӣ Sand, scrape, or burnish stock to final surface finish.
Ӣ install side plate or washers and toe plate.
Ӣ install patch box and inlays
Ӣ Complete any desired carvings, mouldings, wire inlay or engraving
Ӣ Drill touch hole or install touch hole liner or drum and nipple.
Ӣ install sights
Ӣ Polish barrel, lock and other metal parts to finial finish.
Ӣ Tune lock and triggers if you haven't already done so.
Ӣ Brown or blue barrel if desired. Locks should be polished bright or color case hardened. All steel parts may be left white. Some hunters may want all steel parts browned or blued although this probably happened naturally over time with exposure and wear.
Ӣ Apply stain and final finish to stock as desired.
Ӣ Make or buy ramrod
Ӣ Sight in, and start shooting.
Do you have a book or two on rifle building? If not that should be your first step. After you have read them "multiple times" and asked questions in forums such as this then -
There is sorta/kinda order than you need to do things in or you create way more work for yourself or even possibly make an error that can not be readily fixed.
One time (and learned from that) I started a rifle without having all the major components. By the time I needed a couple of them nobody had them in stock - for months.
So unless you are potentially willing to wait up to a year for that last major component you need, buy your stuff "up front".
I make a distinction between the two different levels of pre-done stocks.
Some are simply "pre-shaped" - normally the barrel channel is inlet and the ramrod hole is drilled. The stock is kinda/sorta shaped but the lock, butt plate, nosecap etc are not inlet for you.
Then there is the pre-inlet where it's cut out for a specific lock (or maybe a couple of options), triggers may be inlet (again, have to use what they specify), butt plate inlet mostly finished etc.
You can "NOT" start finishing these stocks until you have the furniture and barrel installed - otherwise you wouldn't know what to finish shaping (these are only done about 90-95% - they are builders kits not an "assemble part A into slot B" kinda thing - there is upwards of 100 hours of work on a kit from Track, Chambers, Pecatonica etc)
Minimally, if you are going to try and do a "pay as you go" type kit build you should get the stock and the barrel at the same time.
Leaving a stock laying around that has a barrel channel cut "without" a barrel in it can cause it to twist/warp unless you kept it in a climate controlled environment.
This is an "order of operations" that many builders use - in some cases a step may not apply with a pre-inlet/pre-carve but should give you an idea of the order:
Ӣ Remove breech plug and finish barrel inlet Then, inlet tang.
Ӣ Inlet lock.
Ӣ inlet trigger/trigger assembly.
Ӣ install butt plate and partially shape buttstock. Make sure you establish the final line of the bottom of the buttstock and lower forearm in order to inlet the triggerguard.
Ӣ install triggerguard and partially shape lock mortice and wrist.
Ӣ install ramrod pipes
Ӣ install, and inlet barrel loops/lugs.
Ӣ Install barrel pins or wedges
Ӣ Install tang and lock screws
Ӣ Finish shaping buttstock, lock mortice, and wrist. Start at the lock mortice and work back to the butt plate.
Ӣ Shape forestock starting at the lock mortice and working forward to the muzzlecap.
Ӣ install muzzlecap
Ӣ Sand, scrape, or burnish stock to final surface finish.
Ӣ install side plate or washers and toe plate.
Ӣ install patch box and inlays
Ӣ Complete any desired carvings, mouldings, wire inlay or engraving
Ӣ Drill touch hole or install touch hole liner or drum and nipple.
Ӣ install sights
Ӣ Polish barrel, lock and other metal parts to finial finish.
Ӣ Tune lock and triggers if you haven't already done so.
Ӣ Brown or blue barrel if desired. Locks should be polished bright or color case hardened. All steel parts may be left white. Some hunters may want all steel parts browned or blued although this probably happened naturally over time with exposure and wear.
Ӣ Apply stain and final finish to stock as desired.
Ӣ Make or buy ramrod
Ӣ Sight in, and start shooting.
What galamb said,,
barrel first followed by all the rest,
,,
Finishing last. Those pre-inlet stocks are only 90%,, there is a lot more than just sanding that needs done.
barrel first followed by all the rest,
,,
Finishing last. Those pre-inlet stocks are only 90%,, there is a lot more than just sanding that needs done.
galamb
58 Cal.
Yep - a rifle is just something to make with all the "cool stuff" on the bench :grin:
Get ALL the parts before ya start, that way you KNOW you can get them all & you don't have to wait on something.
I suggest ya get them all at the same place, as each vender preinlets for THEIR choice of trim......
On a PRECARVED Stock......... Always... do the lock First.... Because the lock is going to go where they inlet it. You can move the barrel back but the lock is where it is.....
This is how I usually do them, & it works well for me & many others.
On a Precarved Stock........
Inlet Lock 75-85% of the way
Inlet Barrel to proper place in regards to Vent & Flashpan Alignment.... (this is important ! )
Put tang on barrel, shape tang as you want it & inlet the tang with it attached to the barrel.
Install Underlugs on the barrel & inlet them to the stock & pin barrel to stock
Finish Lock & Inlet Sideplate. Drill, tap & screw the lock in.
Inlet & install Trigger. Get it working close to how you want it to be right now, before continuing. (This way if you have to move something, you do it now, not after the rifle is built)
Install the Tang to trigger screw
Mark LOP, inlet & install Buttplate
Inlet & install Toeplate
Inlet & install Triggerguard
Inlet & install Nosecap
Inlet & install Entrypipe & RR pipes
Make the RR.
Now trim off the excess wood, sand, stain, finish.
I do the sights last, so I don't have the dovetails or sights snagging my hands all the time.
Keith Lisle
I suggest ya get them all at the same place, as each vender preinlets for THEIR choice of trim......
On a PRECARVED Stock......... Always... do the lock First.... Because the lock is going to go where they inlet it. You can move the barrel back but the lock is where it is.....
This is how I usually do them, & it works well for me & many others.
On a Precarved Stock........
Inlet Lock 75-85% of the way
Inlet Barrel to proper place in regards to Vent & Flashpan Alignment.... (this is important ! )
Put tang on barrel, shape tang as you want it & inlet the tang with it attached to the barrel.
Install Underlugs on the barrel & inlet them to the stock & pin barrel to stock
Finish Lock & Inlet Sideplate. Drill, tap & screw the lock in.
Inlet & install Trigger. Get it working close to how you want it to be right now, before continuing. (This way if you have to move something, you do it now, not after the rifle is built)
Install the Tang to trigger screw
Mark LOP, inlet & install Buttplate
Inlet & install Toeplate
Inlet & install Triggerguard
Inlet & install Nosecap
Inlet & install Entrypipe & RR pipes
Make the RR.
Now trim off the excess wood, sand, stain, finish.
I do the sights last, so I don't have the dovetails or sights snagging my hands all the time.
Keith Lisle
I will differently get a book. I have build a kit before and the stock I looked at track of the wolf was inlayed the ramrod was drill and the lock was cut and the trigger was cut. What I really thought of was get parts from traditions and build there ky one part at a time I love mine and would really like one just like it in flint but I'm just thinking right I'm not goin to jump into anything soon thanks
Even though the stock your getting is cut or a "pre inlay" stock, none of the cuts will allow you to just drop the metal parts in place.
All of the pre-carved stocks are intentionally cut towards the small size so the craftsman (you) can do the final inlaying for a perfect fit.
This includes the barrel channel, the lock mortice and the trigger mortice.
Stick around here and don't be afraid to ask questions before you start inlaying a part.
There are certain knacks to doing these things right.
Most of the folks who have ended up with sloppy jobs of inlaying their parts just took off on their own and started cutting away wood.
A perfect way to screw things up.
All of the pre-carved stocks are intentionally cut towards the small size so the craftsman (you) can do the final inlaying for a perfect fit.
This includes the barrel channel, the lock mortice and the trigger mortice.
Stick around here and don't be afraid to ask questions before you start inlaying a part.
There are certain knacks to doing these things right.
Most of the folks who have ended up with sloppy jobs of inlaying their parts just took off on their own and started cutting away wood.
A perfect way to screw things up.
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Listen to Birddog, he knows what he is talking about.
Keith,
Worked with my older spokeshave with the concave blade on the forearm....wow! I love this tool now! I you hold it just right....long curls all over the floor.....
It can chatter however, and then my #2 is my Shinto rasp.
I just need a couple more rasps, couple of floats, and maybe a few more files.... :youcrazy:
Marc...so not ready for moanday morning.....
Worked with my older spokeshave with the concave blade on the forearm....wow! I love this tool now! I you hold it just right....long curls all over the floor.....
It can chatter however, and then my #2 is my Shinto rasp.
I just need a couple more rasps, couple of floats, and maybe a few more files.... :youcrazy:
Marc...so not ready for moanday morning.....
If I was you, I would watch this set of videos before spending any money on a books so you know what your getting into. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJBNg_NLASA
also there are guns in the white that can be had also less work. some guys here can point you to them.
also there are guns in the white that can be had also less work. some guys here can point you to them.
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jrbaker90 said:
Just to be Clear on something.......
A Lyman, Traditions, CVA, T/C "Rifle Kit" and a Track of the Wolf or Pecatonica "kit" and as different as a Lawnmower engines compared to Nascar engines... Both combustion engines, but not even close to the same thing.
The Lyman/Traditions kit, the parts will just drop in. You trim an edge with an exacto knife here & there, sand, finish & assemble. Time investment here 16 hrs on the kitchen table, file, Exacto knife, screwdriver, sandpaper, stain, finish.
The Tracks or Pecatonica or Dunlap kits is a Box of Unfinished parts, that you build into a rifle. Those precarved stocks basically show you where the parts go, parts don't just fall into place, you have to make them fit.
Time investment 125 to 200 hrs. Gonna take you 3-6 months to build it, if you work a regular job every day & mess with this at night.
Many Many times guys buy these & cannot build them, or they build with $ 1000. worth of parts & make it into a $150. rifle.
You need to buy a Book & see what the deal is on this BEFORE you spend any real money...
I cannot count the emails I have received from guys telling me "I bought this kit & none of this stuff will fit together. I just want to sand, finish & assemble it. What do I do ?"
If you have not touched it..... they may take it back if ya talk real nice to them. If you did anything to any part, you own it.
Keith Lisle
