Steel vs Brass frame differences?

[Phil Coffins]

Thanks for that info, I've decided to stay with a steel frame.
I like the 1851 Navy but want to keep it "authentic" in .36cal
It seems there are more accessories/items/etc for .44 though, which I'd go for an 1860 Army if I was doing that caliber.

Main differences btwn 1851 in .36 vs 1860 in .44? I'm wondering if its just better to go for bigger caliber for better range/power, but are they more accurate too?

thanks again for any info thats posted

The 1851 is lighter and the conversion is to 38, the 1860 is a bit larger and the conversion is to 45 Colt. The 51 grips are smaller then the 60 so the feel is different but I like them both. Power of them both are adequate as a cap and ball. Wild Bill preferred the 36.

 

[Sound Tribe]

Appreciate the answers
Uberti vs Pietta is my only thoughts now lol

I hear different things from both, but the no stamp on the barrel model will probably end up being my choice

 

[Crow Choker]

Thanks for that info, I've decided to stay with a steel frame.
I like the 1851 Navy but want to keep it "authentic" in .36cal
It seems there are more accessories/items/etc for .44 though, which I'd go for an 1860 Army if I was doing that caliber.

Main differences btwn 1851 in .36 vs 1860 in .44? I'm wondering if its just better to go for bigger caliber for better range/power, but are they more accurate too?

thanks again for any info thats posted

Sound Tribe-You'll be glad in the long run going with a steel frame vs brass. Better longevity, better looks. Shooting a lead ball from an 1800 era revolver is basically a target firearm in todays world. Ifin you desire power in a handgun, a modern one is the way to go. I prefer 44's over a .36 mostly for historical reasons and when I started out 50 some years ago, my first was a 44 and there seems to be a bigger variety of models to choose from. Accuracy, both have inherent accuracy, alot depends on the shooter, their personal ability, how well they manage their loads, and the amount of practice.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

I load 30-32gr of 777, would not try that in a brass frame.
If you have ever loaded a SSA, you would prefer to have a spare cylinder.
Thats quicker than just about any single action case fired one.

 

[Billy Boy]

Hello, totally new to black powder but have been recommended to start with a pistol, preferably an 1851 Navy model. I actually prefer these anyways.

What is the major differences between steel and brass frames though? I know only the steel frame can be converted to a cartridge shooter...
I'd prefer brass due to the looks honestly, but I also want the conversion option available.

Any other reasons I should consider?
Thanks

You shouldn’t consider a conversion with any brass framed replica. Most conversion kit makers will suggest this path.

 

[DementedMindOfJac]

Get the 1851 of your choice and a cartridge gun separately. The conversion kit works but isn’t as nice as a pistol designed for cartridges.

No. it doesn't unless you reload .38 Spl with heeled bullets. The bore diameter of the .36 is .375, while the diameter of a .38 is .356". You need a fatter bullet, and the only way to get there is with a heeled bullet. Not an issue for .45 LC/Scofield conversions for .44 C&B pistols.

As far as brass v. steel frame, a brass frame will stretch over time, especially with heavier loads. A .38 Spl counts as a heavy load. However, it is cheaper to make a brass frame than a steel frame, and when you're producing pistols for a war, that becomes an attractive compromise.
If you plan on shooting that pistol a lot, get one with a steel frame. I have several 1851's and several 1860's and IMHO the 1851 is the better shooter. Perfectly balanced pistol, the Navy.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Hello, totally new to black powder but have been recommended to start with a pistol, preferably an 1851 Navy model. I actually prefer these anyways.

What is the major differences between steel and brass frames though? I know only the steel frame can be converted to a cartridge shooter...
I'd prefer brass due to the looks honestly, but I also want the conversion option available.

Any other reasons I should consider?
Thanks

I have several C&P pistols. .31, .36 and .44 cal. Brass and steel. I have converted the .36 cal. 1851 Navy Brass to .38 special. and shot it for over 10 years before retiring it. Never an issue. I moved the cylinder over to a steel frame. I load with 'MagTech 158gr Hollow Base pure lead bullets or pure lead Wad Cutters with 18 gr. 3F BP or 16gr Pyrodex P. Powder, over powder wad then bullet. The hollow base expansion takes up the difference between the .357 bullet and the .376 bore diameter. It's quite accurate. I get about 800 to 850 fps.
As for as the .44 cal. goes, I haven't tried a conversion in brass frame 1851. I don't think I would. I think the .44 cal. is too powerful. However, I have fired many rounds from a Brass Frame .44 cal. 1858 without any issues. I did keep the load to the lower end of the range 22 grs. 3F PB or 20 grs. Pyrodex P.
The only other powder I tried was Triple 7 in the .44 cal. After 2 shots I pulled the rest then reloaded with PB. T7 is too hot. Even in a steel frame, I think you would have to load down to 18 grs. T7 to be safe in the .44 cal. Semper Fi.

 

[Sir Boniface Harrison]

Both my revolvers, 1851 Colt navy and 1858 Remington Army, are steel bodied Piettas. I have had much use out of them and they are reliable and accurate. I have never had an Uberti. At one time the quality control between Uberti and Pietta was very much in favour of Uberti, but since the early 2010's Piettas have improved , and so now there is little between them apart from the slight price difference. Turning back to the Brass frame question, I have heard anecdotally that the Brass alloy used by Pietta now contains more phospherous than it used to, which improves hardness.

 

[ernbar]

I recommend a steel over brass model and a Uberti 1858 as a starter. Much easier to remove the cylinder and will shoot POA out of the box unlike the open tops. That alone will help you get your feet wet and eventually try out the open tops. Steel is stronger and will last a heck of a long time.
I have conversion cylinders for both my .44 Pietta and .36 Uberti 1858s and love using them. It gives you the versatility of using both types of gunpowders, sort of two guns in one. Do not use conversion cylinders in brass framed models period. The included instructions clearly tell you not to and to keep velocities at or under 800 PFS. I reload my own cowboy loads so I can experiment with different recipes.

 

[springfield art]

Stay away from brass .44’s if the intention is to actually do some shooting. Those are a loosing proposition. If one is only interested in a “bright shiny object” without any sense of history, then fine, go for it.

Fully agree. For a few bucks extra, a steel will be worth the investment.

 

[springfield art]

Both my revolvers, 1851 Colt navy and 1858 Remington Army, are steel bodied Piettas. I have had much use out of them and they are reliable and accurate. I have never had an Uberti. At one time the quality control between Uberti and Pietta was very much in favour of Uberti, but since the early 2010's Piettas have improved , and so now there is little between them apart from the slight price difference. Turning back to the Brass frame question, I have heard anecdotally that the Brass alloy used by Pietta now contains more phospherous than it used to, which improves hardness.

Pietta has offered some really nice "engraved" offerings lately; I agree with your post.

 

[Mogadishu Meanderer]

Sound Tribe-You'll be glad in the long run going with a steel frame vs brass. Better longevity, better looks. Shooting a lead ball from an 1800 era revolver is basically a target firearm in todays world. Ifin you desire power in a handgun, a modern one is the way to go. I prefer 44's over a .36 mostly for historical reasons and when I started out 50 some years ago, my first was a 44 and there seems to be a bigger variety of models to choose from. Accuracy, both have inherent accuracy, alot depends on the shooter, their personal ability, how well they manage their loads, and the amount of practice.

Hey Crow don’t forget to suggest a Ted Cash snail capper as the opposing thumb and index finger are mostly obsolete for capping these days!!

 

[LSLibelo]

Sound Tribe,
Welcome from California.

 

[le125verne]

There in lays the reason for my suggestion. For most new users the unaltered pistol is Ok. Then the hope is to mearly put the conversation in and shoot. A tuned firearm of any type changes the experience.

Be very careful in Democratically controlled Maryland. Once you put the "conversion cylinder" on your pistol you are now in the Maryland State Police (non)registry and are in possession of a MODERN CARTRIDGE PISTOL. Check your State laws!

 

[45D]

Be very careful in Democratically controlled Maryland. Once you put the "conversion cylinder" on your pistol you are now in the Maryland State Police (non)registry and are in possession of a MODERN CARTRIDGE PISTOL. Check your State laws!

One can make one's own firearm.

Mike

 

[DementedMindOfJac]

One can make one's own firearm.

Mike

That is true. However it is wiser to do it and not talk about it. Hiding it in your Liberty safe might not work. Sure, I know it's legal. Does the ATF though?

 

[Crow Choker]

Hey Crow don’t forget to suggest a Ted Cash snail capper as the opposing thumb and index finger are mostly obsolete for capping these days!!

A few years back I took three of my Colt cappers on a shooting safari down along one of the local rivers where you can shoot and plink with ease and no interruptions on maybe close to a 2 mile stretch. Part of it is along my Dad's farm, the rest private ground where I've always had 24/7 permission to shoot for years. Anyway walked the 1/4 mile from the farm to the river/timber area and went to cap the three revolvers, had previously loaded them with powder, wad, and ball. OH OH!!!! Forgot my Cash snail capper at home which is a 6 mile drive back, then back again, not to mention the walk back to my vehicle. Sooooo-Having a full tin of Rem 10's, I capped the PITA old fashion way, forefinger and thumb. Was like going back to the stone age. Got through it, but ever since then I make sure that snail capper (or straight liners if needed) are in my shooting bag. Still recall the feeling of doom and gloom when I relaized I had forgotten that capper.

 

[Sound Tribe]

Thanks for all the info guys

I really only prefer the look of the brass frame due to replicas of CSA weapons, but of course I will go for a steel frame. Was somewhat hoping it was made with steel and just made to look that way.

Ive always been a fan of colts but I prefer the top frame option, wish there were more models than just the Remington or the expensive Ruger

 

[ernbar]

Thanks for all the info guys

I really only prefer the look of the brass frame due to replicas of CSA weapons, but of course I will go for a steel frame. Was somewhat hoping it was made with steel and just made to look that way.

Ive always been a fan of colts but I prefer the top frame option, wish there were more models than just the Remington or the expensive Ruger

 

[Sir Boniface Harrison]