Stock bedding matrial??

[TN.Frank]

I'd like to make sure that the barrel to stock fit has as close to a Zero gap as possible. Since the gun I"m working on was already built and I'm just redoing it I'd like to know if there's any common stuff that I can put in the barrel channel before I put the barrel in to help take up any "slop" or gaps that may exsist between the barrel and wood. I thought about putting a small bead of Elmers Wood Glue in the channel, when it dries it'll give me zero gap. What about clay or what else could I use. I'm not spending money on a bedding kit, cost way too much and I'm already in hot water with my wife over spending money on this rifle. I need something "household" that I can get at the local Walmart that'll be soft then dry solid. Any ideas?

 

[Black Hand]

What kinds of gap are we talking about? If the barrel bottoms-out in the barrel channel and makes contact in most of the real-estate, why bother. If it is a narrow gap, the finish will probably fill it. You could try swelling the wood with water, which works fairly well with walnut but not as well with maple. I use boiling water, and it works the same way as steaming out dents. My theory is that as you work the wood, it becomes compressed and the water allows it to relax. Just make sure it is completely dry before staining and finish.
Black Hand

 

[TN.Frank]

I just noticed that with the barrel pinned in place that in a couple spots when you squeeze the barrel and stock it moves a bit. It's probably really nothing to worry about but me, being the picky guy that I am, would like it to have a zero play. I was thinking that I could use a small bead of silicone to fit the barrel to the stock. I know it's far from "traditional" but it would work and be heat and solvent resistant and seal the barrel channel off from getting water between the barrel and stock.
I think I might try that. Just a very thin layer of silicone. Unless someone can come up with something better.

 

[Black Hand]

You could glue thin bits of wood into these areas and then re-inlet the barrel to remove the "squeeze". This has worked for me in the past. The wood patch wouldn't really need to match either as it wouldn't be seen.

 

[Norskie]

Epoxy and floor wax can be used to bed your barrel. Both are household products that you'll need for your "honey-do" list anyway, right? She'll never know the difference!

 

[TN.Frank]

Floor Wax, now there's an idea. Any certain brand or type? I still think the silicone would work pretty good but the floor wax idea in interesting.

 

[khwils]

Frank, I think barrel bedding compounds are nothing more that a two-part epoxy. Use vaseline as a release agent for your barrel. Kurt

 

[TN.Frank]

Oh, once the barrel is pinned to the stock it's not coming back off,LOL. I know the comercial bedding stuff is an epoxy but I'm not building a long range high powered rifle here. It's a simple poorboy style flintlock to plink and hunt with. I'm just looking for some to take up any small gaps between the barrel and the stock. The Floor wax sounds decent and I think the silicone would work great. It'd be water proof so water wouldn't get into or between the barrel and wood.

 

[Vaino]

Of prime importance....how does it shoot now? If the accuracy is OK, why go further? Fred

 

[TN.Frank]

Never shot it. It's wasn't in shooting condition when I got it. I swapped for it as a total project gun knowing that I'd have to do some work to it to get it up to shooting condition. I still want to know more about the floor wax deal. That sounds like it'd be the easiest method to use. That silicone idea still sounds good to me too. I'm sure I'll figure it out by the time I get ready to put the barrel in the stock.

 

[Black Hand]

The floor wax merely fills the space and provides protection from moisture. It doesn't provide any support and the 'squeeze' will still be there.

 

[TN.Frank]

So should I really even worry about the "squeeze" or just ignore it? I remember my Dixie Squrriel rifle didn't have any "squeeze" to it at all. Of course that was a professionaly build gun and this is a home build one. I'd be willing to bet that this was the guys first or maybe second gun. Lots of little things weren't done quite right. Luckily I'm good at fixin' stuff.

 

[Black Hand]

I personally understand you quest for the perfect fit, as I am afflicted by the same problem. However, there comes a point of dimishing returns where you are spending lots of time/effort and getting a minimal return. If you can live with it, then don't worry. If it is an issue that affects the safety or performance of the fire-arm, then I would worry more. Just my opinion.

P.S. The first gun I built has some 'squeeze' in it that bugs me too. However, I have yet to fix it! :grin:

 

[ResearchPress]

Have a look at the article on Bedding The Parker-Hale on my web site. It may assist with some ideas and steers clear of glass bedding materials....

David

 

[TN.Frank]

Water Pump grease, never would have thought of that.

 

[Norskie]

T.N., I was suggesting the floor wax as a release agent. You don't want to epoxy the durn rifle together, do you? Picture the poor fool that aquires this gun someday, drives the pins out and then can't remove the stock!
Moose

 

[TN.Frank]

I don't plan on ever selling this rifle. I'll have too much sweat equity into it.LOL. I may just do the water pump grease, that'll water proof it and seal the gap between the barrel and stock and I"ll still be able to remove the barrel if I ever want to. Man, I can't wait for my parts and stuff to get here.

 

[madstone]

I often use microbed to help hide poor inletting on customer's guns. Make the color right and stain the stock dark and it is almost un-noticeable.