Stock finish with tru-oil

[DASH]

I am just about ready to finish work on my Bedford county long rifle stock. I have used Laurel Mountain stain,and Permalyn sealer and finish on three previous rifles. Not a 100% satisfied.

I am considering doing an aqua fortis stain and possibly true oil as a sealer finish. Any thoughts?

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Use and LOVE all the products you mention less True Oil as a finish. It turns 'white' on the wood rifles when carried in inclement weather. It also thickens and gums up when not used regularly. I gave up on it.

I now use the finishing or 'wiping varnishes' as sold by Arm-R-Seal. It is a modern polymerized finish that fancy/high end custom furniture makers use, available @ Woodcraft. The depth of the finish it gives to tiger-striped maple is to die for, really highlights the chatoyance!

But, there are MANY options to use besides T-O or what I mentioned. A bonus for the A-R-S product is that it can be touched up at any time and you won't see any difference in the finish between areas touched and those not touched up. It's all I use now. And ... it doesn't turn white where your wet, gloved hand holds the longrifle for hours or days ...

Arm-R-Seal: Wiping varnish, wet (oil) sanded for 1st two, then hand-rubbed for 3-4 more coats - all gloss - then I switch to the satin for the final 2 coats. All coats lightly rubbed in-between with the finest polishing 3M Scotchbrite pads, light gray I recall. The gloss gives a depth and sheen that really needs to be seen to be truly appreciated. I made both of these, but a sampling.

LH Fusil de Chasse:

LH Custom BP Schuetzen stock of English Walnut:

 

[rich pierce]

Arm-R-Seal.

I’ll give this a try for my bad weather guns.

 

[stikshooter]

Use and LOVE all the products you mention less True Oil as a finish. It turns 'white' on the wood rifles when carried in inclement weather. It also thickens and gums up when not used regularly. I gave up on it.

I now use the finishing or 'wiping varnishes' as sold by Arm-R-Seal. It is a modern polymerized finish that fancy/high end custom furniture makers use, available @ Woodcraft. The depth of the finish it gives to tiger-striped maple is to die for, really highlights the chatoyance!

But, there are MANY options to use besides T-O or what I mentioned. A bonus for the A-R-S product is that it can be touched up at any time and you won't see any difference in the finish between areas touched and those not touched up. It's all I use now. And ... it doesn't turn white where your wet, gloved hand holds the longrifle for hours or days ...

Arm-R-Seal: Wiping varnish, wet (oil) sanded for 1st two, then hand-rubbed for 3-4 more coats - all gloss - then I switch to the satin for the final 2 coats. All coats lightly rubbed in-between with the finest polishing 3M Scotchbrite pads, light gray I recall. The gloss gives a depth and sheen that really needs to be seen to be truly appreciated. I made both of these, but a sampling.

LH Fusil de Chasse:
View attachment 231150

LH Custom BP Schuetzen stock of English Walnut:
View attachment 231151

Where did you get that finish ,really nice, and as mine was finished in True oil I assume it has to get removed?
Thanks Ed

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Where did you get that finish ,really nice, and as mine was finished in True oil I assume it has to get removed?
Thanks Ed

Woodcraft stores sells it, but only in quarts, so if only finishing 1 or 2 rifles then I don't think it would be worth the expense.

I'd leave your T-O'd stock 'as is' until you have a problem, as maybe you don't use it or hunt in such conditions that would cause the whitening issue to occur.

 

[stikshooter]

Woodcraft stores sells it, but only in quarts, so if only finishing 1 or 2 rifles then I don't think it would be worth the expense.

I'd leave your T-O'd stock 'as is' until you have a problem, as maybe you don't use it or hunt in such conditions that would cause the whitening issue to occur.

I do hunt (a lot) and snow/rain happens ! I also have been been known for buying stuff to keep me in the woods (retired) so when not hunting keeping busy with projects like this . Do you think true oil removal as best I can will interfere with the effectiveness of this ? I have been known for finding a interesting bullet mold and then having to buy a rifle for it cause I don't have that caliber /Ed

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Do you think true oil removal as best I can will interfere with the effectiveness of this ? I have been known for finding a interesting bullet mold and then having to buy a rifle for it cause I don't have that caliber /Ed

I don't honestly know. Let's see if builders like Rick Pierce can add something here, as there most be some other superior finish that is compatible with T-O, that won't turn white when wet ...

 

[Old-Duckman]

I don't think that Flint625smoothie is thinking about Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Maybe he is thinking of boiled linseed oil..??

I have finished innumerable stocks with Tru-Oil and have never had them get "sticky". I just did a wet test and put a sopping wet folded up paper towel on a buttstock that I finished about a year ago with Tru-Oil, let it set for 10 minutes...No whiteness, no change at all. The wet area looked and felt just like the rest of the stock.

Do not fear using Tru-Oil, it is a great stock finish and lots of people on this forum use it.

 

[Hawk54]

I don't think that Flint625smoothie is thinking about Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Maybe he is thinking of boiled linseed oil..??

I have finished innumerable stocks with Tru-Oil and have never had them get "sticky". I just did a wet test and put a sopping wet folded up paper towel on a buttstock that I finished about a year ago with Tru-Oil, let it set for 10 minutes...No whiteness, no change at all. The wet area looked and felt just like the rest of the stock.

Do not fear using Tru-Oil, it is a great stock finish and lots of people on this forum use it.

Agree. I did a rifle with True Oil and have hunted with it in all kinds of weather and the stock has never shown any adverse reaction. Still looks the same years later.

 

[rich pierce]

Tru-Oil, like most oil-based finishes used, will give different results in different situations. Sealed with something else or not, moisture content of wood, humidity, thickness of application, time between coats, and number of coats.

With some oil-based finished I’ve seen where unintended dribbles of fouling while cleaning with the barrel in the gun will practically strip the finish off and discolor it.

Yet, I’m a traditionalist so try to make oil-based finishes work. In my experience they won’t last 45 years without touch-up, whereas poly finishes on modern guns will, even in the boat and duck blind.

I understand and accept that and will vary what I use depending on a number of variables.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

I don't think that Flint625smoothie is thinking about Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil ...

... put a sopping wet folded up paper towel on a buttstock ... let it set for 10 minutes ... no whiteness, no change at all.

Well, yes I was talking about the Birchwood Casey T-O product. And 10-mins is not a test, LOL ... but am glad it works for you and others! I for one know I'm not alone in complaints about it's tendency to turn white in certain environmental conditions, it's a very common complaint on Gunsmithing Forums of professional gunsmiths. My experience was from ~20-years ago, so maybe the formula has changed ...

But like so many other things ... your mileage may vary.

 

[Old-Duckman]

Well, yes I was talking about the Birchwood Casey T-O product. And 10-mins is not a test, LOL ... but am glad it works for you and others! I for one know I'm not alone in complaints about it's tendency to turn white in certain environmental conditions, it's a very common complaint on Gunsmithing Forums of professional gunsmiths. My experience was from ~20-years ago, so maybe the formula has changed ...

But like so many other things ... your mileage may vary.

I can attest that the formula has changed. I spray Tru-Oil with an airbrush. In years past I used to be able to thin it with lacquer thinner, Don't know when the formula changed but I now have to use naphtha.

I'm going to do the wet paper towel test and let it sit overnight, I'll report my results...hope I'm not eating my words! I'll take before and after photos.

 

[Eutycus]

Howdy and Welcome from Texas!

 

[wiscoaster]

I am just about ready to finish work on my Bedford county long rifle stock. I have used Laurel Mountain stain,and Permalyn sealer and finish on three previous rifles. Not a 100% satisfied.

I am considering doing an aqua fortis stain and possibly true oil as a sealer finish. Any thoughts?

Hello and welcome from Packer country.

I'm not a fan of Tru Oil, either. Too hard to get the sheen right. I'm a fan of Tung oil. Can be dyed to modify the color. You didn't mention what kind of wood. Aqua fortis best on maple, I think.

 

[Old-Duckman]

Hello and welcome from Packer country.

I'm not a fan of Tru Oil, either. Too hard to get the sheen right. I'm a fan of Tung oil. Can be dyed to modify the color. You didn't mention what kind of wood. Aqua fortis best on maple, I think.

I have mixed oil based stains in Tru-Oil but as I noted earlier I spray the Tru-Oil on with an airbrush. I have never mixed stain in it and hand rubbed it on but I would think that would work out fine... but I couldn't recommend it as I have never done it.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Laurel Mountain and Tru-Oil.

 

[Old-Duckman]

first photo, prior to the test, 2nd photo is with the wet paper towel and the last photo is12 hours later. Hmmm no whiteness!

My thoughts are maybe since I spray the Tru-Oil that I get a coat that has no defects that would leave partially exposed wood subject to the moisture. Just a guess but I think 12 hours is proof enough that properly applied Tru-Oil is basically impervious to moisture.

BTW a Geha is a shotgun converted from a Mauser rifle after the war. Interesting story if you care to research it.

 

[toot]

Welcome.

 

[moonlori83]

I've used LM Lancaster Maple stain and Permalyn sealer for more years than I care to remember. I use TO as a top finish as it's not as brash or hard to the touch. It cuts back nicely to the sheen that only an oil and not a poly can provide.
I've hunted this modified TC Renegade 54 cal. in all kinds of weather with no adverse effects on the wood finish or rust browned metal surfaces.
This method of finishing I got from John Bivens.

All these and keep yer powder dry!

 

[Long walker]

Use and LOVE all the products you mention less True Oil as a finish. It turns 'white' on the wood rifles when carried in inclement weather. It also thickens and gums up when not used regularly. I gave up on it.

I now use the finishing or 'wiping varnishes' as sold by Arm-R-Seal. It is a modern polymerized finish that fancy/high end custom furniture makers use, available @ Woodcraft. The depth of the finish it gives to tiger-striped maple is to die for, really highlights the chatoyance!

But, there are MANY options to use besides T-O or what I mentioned. A bonus for the A-R-S product is that it can be touched up at any time and you won't see any difference in the finish between areas touched and those not touched up. It's all I use now. And ... it doesn't turn white where your wet, gloved hand holds the longrifle for hours or days ...

Arm-R-Seal: Wiping varnish, wet (oil) sanded for 1st two, then hand-rubbed for 3-4 more coats - all gloss - then I switch to the satin for the final 2 coats. All coats lightly rubbed in-between with the finest polishing 3M Scotchbrite pads, light gray I recall. The gloss gives a depth and sheen that really needs to be seen to be truly appreciated. I made both of these, but a sampling.

LH Fusil de Chasse:
View attachment 231150

LH Custom BP Schuetzen stock of English Walnut:
View attachment 231151