• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Stock Finishing Question

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dkasprzak

40 Cal
Joined
Jan 13, 2021
Messages
127
Reaction score
255
Looking for thoughts, opinions and ideas. I recently purchased a Traditions Trapper kit and want to do something to try to make the “select hardwood” stock look a little better than just using a stain and tru oil. I’ve done a small bit of research on “tiger striping” the stock by either burning or painting and think it would end up looking like a cheap stock someone was trying to make look better.

Today I ran across a method of using Bone Black to enhance the wood grain by adding it to a wood grain filler. Has anyone used bone black or possibly artists powdered charcoal? If so I would love to hear feedback or, just other ideas of what can be done to enhance the ”select hardwood”.

Thanks in advance…..Dave
 
Is your woods grain pretty coarse like an oak? Thats really the only way you could get much effect from a colored grain filler. The idea of that method is to work it into open pores then sand the surface lightly before applying your finish.
 
@poker I believe the wood to be Beech based on some internet research on what type of wood Tradition is using in their kits.
 
Today I ran across a method of using Bone Black to enhance the wood grain by adding it to a wood grain filler. Has anyone used bone black or possibly artists powdered charcoal?
Well, bone black is basically a fine calcium based charcoal, right?
And I understand how that could accent a wood grain by filling pores with a fine charcoal. Once pressed in well and the surface lightly sanded some areas of the wood surface grain would be enhanced as opposed to just a simple finish applied to the entire stock.
Having worked with Traditions stocks, that stuff is pretty tight grained, I'm not sure how much of the grain would be open enough to accept a fine carbon.

You say you have a kit. Most kit's have plenty of wood that needs to be removed to get a decent looking finished product so you have an opportunity to experiment with YOUR piece of wood before you finish it.
With the kit stock as received, lightly wet it, that will enhance the grain appearance. If your stock presents areas of open grain (you'll see it) you could use a light slurry of a bone black agent and sand it back a bit after it dries. That's when you'll see if it has the effect you want.
If it's not, you can sand it off. Again, plenty of wood needs to come off those kits.
If it does, then continue your build, shaping and sanding and apply the "black" as you desire before the finish sanding and coatings
 
With the kit stock as received, lightly wet it, that will enhance the grain appearance. If your stock presents areas of open grain (you'll see it) you could use a light slurry of a bone black agent and sand it back a bit after it dries. That's when you'll see if it has the effect you want.
If it's not, you can sand it off. Again, plenty of wood needs to come off those kits.
If it does, then continue your build, shaping and sanding and apply the "black" as you desire before the finish sanding and coatings

@necchi Thank you for your response. When I am ready to start sanding I will give this a try and post the results.
 
Artificial striping was known back in the day
Bone black was also used, and plant based dies.
Today some folks flame a stock, doesn’t seem to have been real popular in the past.

I'd do the faux striping. You need stiff artist's fan brush, a dark brown dye, a medium brown dye, and a tan, or you thin a small amount of the medium brown with some alcohol. It can be rather fancy when done right. I'd use Fiebing's Leather Dye.

LD
 
I agree with painting stripes, though I've not been very good at that . . . but you can also make a beech stock look decent with just Febings leather dye. This is a beech, or hickory-stocked CVA Derringer that I built as a teen in the 80's and refinished and stained with leather dye last year during the Covid shutdown.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2952.jpg
    IMG_2952.jpg
    119.9 KB
I agree with painting stripes, though I've not been very good at that . . . but you can also make a beech stock look decent with just Febings leather dye. This is a beech, or hickory-stocked CVA Derringer that I built as a teen in the 80's and refinished and stained with leather dye last year during the Covid shutdown.
I'm still chewing on whether to leave this one light or try leather die which I have a number of colors of.
I was hoping to use a number of coats of pure tung oil to seal it.
 

Attachments

  • 20211220_174305.jpg
    20211220_174305.jpg
    80.4 KB
I’ll be watching this one. Thinking of redoing a stock as well and I’m seeing lots of good ideas.
 
his is a beech, or hickory-stocked CVA Derringer that I built as a teen in the 80's and refinished and stained with leather dye last year during the Covid shutdown.
@MAC1967 I really like the look of the stock on your derringer, can you tell me which color leather dye you used and how many coats? Anything else you did to achieve this look?
 
I agree with painting stripes, though I've not been very good at that . . . but you can also make a beech stock look decent with just Febings leather dye. This is a beech, or hickory-stocked CVA Derringer that I built as a teen in the 80's and refinished and stained with leather dye last year during the Covid shutdown.

Nice job!

I too have a Derringer that I built back in the early 80's. It has lived, loaded, in various moving boxes since then. When the lure of BP grabbed me a year or so ago I dug it out, fired the old load, cleaned it up, and want to strip and refinish.

but now I have two kits on my bench, so the derringer will have to wait.
 
I have simply used Minwax stains on my rifles, usually applying red mahogany, then dark walnut. I will lightly sand back to the tone I want - I like that slightly reddish finish I get. Not screaming red, just peeking through the walnut just a tiny bit. Then, I use DemBart Checkering finish, available from Brownell's. One can obtain an astounding final finish with the DemBart. Apply by rubbing on with your finger, use it then for progressive applications and wet sanding. With patience, the finish will be something else.
 
I'd do the faux striping. You need stiff artist's fan brush, a dark brown dye, a medium brown dye, and a tan, or you thin a small amount of the medium brown with some alcohol. It can be rather fancy when done right. I'd use Fiebing's Leather Dye.

LD
I’m also interested in faux striping a beech stock, also how to stripe a wooden ramrod.
 
@MAC1967 I really like the look of the stock on your derringer, can you tell me which color leather dye you used and how many coats? Anything else you did to achieve this look?
@1942farmall Keep us posted on how you proceed with your stock.
I hit it with an initial coat of Tru Oil today.
Not sure I like it and am now wishing I had stained it with a medium brown stain first.
My guess is it's too late now.
 
The British gun makers who make $ 100,000 + shotguns and rifles use/ used a solution with tar in it to fill pores in the wood the composition of the solution is a closely guarded secret . It is/was applied to the stock , left to set then rubbed back . I am unsure if it is still used .
I hit it with an initial coat of Tru Oil today.
Not sure I like it and am now wishing I had stained it with a medium brown stain first.
My guess is it's too late now.
Never too late , take it off and start again , just try your stain on a piece of wood then coat it with some Tru Oil because the combination can change the color
,
 
If you are asking for opinions, I'll offer mine, in the spirit of discussion.

The stock is probably beech, which is not known for figure. In my opinion, artificial striping will end up looking artificial, and just wouldn't be right. I really like @MAC1967 's approach, using a dark stain and a good satin finish on a properly-prepared wood surface. Keep it simple.

Good luck with your project! By all means, let us know what you decide to do, and show us how it turns out!

Notchy Bob
 
The British gun makers who make $ 100,000 + shotguns and rifles use/ used a solution with tar in it to fill pores in the wood the composition of the solution is a closely guarded secret . It is/was applied to the stock , left to set then rubbed back . I am unsure if it is still used .

Never too late , take it off and start again , just try your stain on a piece of wood then coat it with some Tru Oil because the combination can change the color
,
I just went out and stripped it off.
I'll let it sit for a few days and then lightly sand it.
It needed to be darker.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top